welling4x4 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Are these bad enough to warrant a change? (see pic) The seals don't seem to be leaking and they do seem to have been done by the previous owner. their's Nothing wrong with them.years of wear left in um. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 anybody tell me what i need to do to replace this? The inner rear transfer bearing. Its knackered. Look like the circlip did the damage. The outer bearing seems fine now i;ve flushed it but i might change it anyhow. This (first pic) is the inner rear tranfer bearing. The next pic is the inside of the outer housing. You can see the score marks where the circlip has been spinning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 I've removed the entire trasafer box and unless i can find some help on the inner bearing it looks like its off to Ashcrofts. Can't figure out how the hell i'd get it out. So failing that. How do i remove the speedo gear from the trans box as this needs to be retained to fit to the new box. Ashcrofts don't supply them with the recon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 How do i remove the speedo gear from the trans box as this needs to be retained to fit to the new box. Ashcrofts don't supply them with the recon prise out the large alloy circular housing & twist the speedo gear so it dsengages with the gear inside the transfer box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 thanks western. one i'd got the crud off i could see the lip to prise it out. super easy...TA. is there a trick to removng the associated dowel bolt? I've put a nut on it and i've tried a claw hammer and it seems fast. Should i just give it more welly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 put 2 nuts on & tighten them on to each other then spanner on bottom nut & undo, the stud should then screw out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Thanks. If i'd read it properly and not been so dumb i'd not have shagged up to stud. Any chance theres a part code? This ? 571536 its out at least.... Thanks for the help western . The trans box is now in a box . I'll call ashcrofts on Monday. BTW the gearbox sounds fine. Might need a clutch though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Thanks. If i'd read it properly and not been so dumb i'd not have shagged up to stud. Any chance theres a part code? its out at least.... Thanks for the help western . The trans box is now in a box . I'll call ashcrofts on Monday. Don't bother, just use a bolt screw with the head cut off. 571536 if you must ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 I was going to do just that if i couldn't find the part code. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Doesn't have to be a stud, a suitable bolt or machin screw with a hex or allen ket socket head will do the job just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 who said i never try to do things myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 who said i never try to do things myself. "Do, or do not. There is no 'try.'" -- Jedi Master Yoda Looks like you're having fun anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 15, 2010 Author Share Posted April 15, 2010 it might be a "do not"....not done it yet... "that is why you fail" now if R2 was around to help with his tool attachemet..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 OK so i'm going to fix the trans myself. Its been toasted by the lack of lubrication . Its a good deal cheaper than the recon box and to be honest i don't trust ashcrofts. I'd rather know all the bits that need changing are done than trust on someone telling me they are done. I quized them for ages and no specifics were mentioned. They said they might or might not change bits at their discretion. They said they had trouble with sourcing diffs which is what mine needs, so i'm going to buy one and fit it myself. Trust no one Its 50% done anyhow affer having an expensive white spirit bath and clean. I've got a recon kit and replaced some bearings. All the seals will be done so it should be as good as any Ashcrofts box. I might yet do all bearings but i'm convinced they are almost new anyhow. Its a good deal cheaper that Ashcrfofts to do it yourself. Failing that,,, this weekend will be dedicated to rear brakes and bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 On 2/21/2010 at 5:28 PM, tweetyduck said: 334615 which are now DDL500011 Hey @tweetyduck I would love to know where did you fit the DDL500011 - I am struggling to understand and I have the workshop refitting the roof in a couple of days - thanks so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 1 hour ago, Wheely said: Hey @tweetyduck I would love to know where did you fit the DDL500011 - I am struggling to understand and I have the workshop refitting the roof in a couple of days - thanks so much! Top of the B pillar if i recall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 thanks @tweetyduck - the B pillar is the one between the 2 doors right? what is the purpose of this seal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 It seals between top of the B pillar and the roof, filling the space that is otherwise sealed by the top part of the two door seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Thanks @Peaklander - the B pillar is the one between the 2 doors right ? This seal has 2 holes and a foamy part. So I apply the foam part of the seal looking towards the roof or toward the b-pillar? I am going to fix it tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Yes that one. It's got two holes for bolts and some adhesive on a wider part. Orientate it so that the bolts pass through and the foam is compressed slightly when the roof sits on it. I don't have a pic and I can't quite remember but it is very obvious when you look at it I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.