Transfer Box Gear

[robhybrid]

Somebody asked on another well known forum are there anny issues regarding the fitting of a transfer box input gear?

The other day I had to remove a transfer box input gear and fit a new one which had good splines.

The transfer box box in question was a 1.22

When you remove the end cover and then the end plate with the bearing outer race on it the gear in question is then visible.

The gear appears to be loose but wil only pull out 1/2" or so then hits the teeth of the next gear.

There are two gears that appear very similar diamiter running on a shaft approximately in the middle of the transfer box.

The number of teeth on these gears are different to each other, so their teeth dont appear to line up with each other, making the input gear difficult to remove.

If you jack up one rear wheel (handbrake off wheels chocked) and slowly rotate it you will find that there is one section of the two gears in the middle of the transfer box that line up.

Once you have found the section where the two gears line up it is possible to remove the input gear.

Once the gear is removed I swapped the old bearings off the old gear onto the new gear as the bearing race outers have not been removed, I then re-fitt using either gasket or sealer depending on what was there previously, this I do to try and maintain the old/previous bearing pre load.

I am unsure how difficult/easy it is to set up the bearing pre load whilst the box is still on the vehicle so I try and leave it as close as it used to be.

I shall try and post some pictures in the next day or two.

[Bush65]

Ensure the replacement input gear is the type with the cross drilled hole to provide lubrication for the splines.

When fitting the newer, cross drilled input gear to a ZF auto, you need the matching spud shaft (on the ZF), which has longer splines.

[Des Morgan]

with the cross drilled hole to provide lubrication for the splines.

I used a Steve Parker Oil tube plate. Seems to have made it quieter as well.

[Mark90]

Rob it was me enquiring about transfer box fitting.

As it was I fitted the input gear first and then fitted the transferbox. Went on easy enough using some long studs and a strong mate to lift the transferbox box into place while I twiddles with me flanges

I had bought a new coupling shaft for the ZF as I was supposed to be getting a 1.4 ratio box with cross drilled input gear but as that fell through I just fitted the 1.222 box with the original gear. I will see how well the V8 pulls the 1.222 box on 33's and may go for a 1.4 box in the end. I belive there is 100k on the ZF and transferbox I fitted and yet there is is no noticable wear on the splines on either the coupling shaft or the input gear. Still it's easy enough to change them both if/when required if the input gear can be removed /replaced in-situ.

[Bush65]

... Still it's easy enough to change them both if/when required if the input gear can be removed /replaced in-situ.

You can change the input gear and the ZF spudshaft in-situ.

[Bush65]

... Still it's easy enough to change them both if/when required if the input gear can be removed /replaced in-situ.

You can change the input gear and the ZF spudshaft in-situ.