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Mine is not quite there yet but I am considering if it would be a better plan to fix any issues on mine and then get it galv'd or just get a new one from Richards.

I am thinking:

new galv'd bulkhead then the chassis galv'd as well after fitting a new rear x member then reusing the rest of my original car replacing the roof as it is trashed really

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I've been wondering something similar about mine really. I can never quite make the decision though! Last summer i replaced the crossmember and i know there is only one other hole (under the gearbox crossmember on the offside rail) that needs welding up. I think i will do that, waxoyl the current chassis myself and then start saving for a new galvanised one to replace this one when it next needs any major work.

The issue i have with having my current one galvanised is that you cant garuntee the condition inside it and you cant clean (spotlessly) and remove the rust that is inside effectivley, so i'm just not sure its a good idea to galvanise something that might not be 100% sound on the inside

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Good point

I think I'll start saving so when the time comes I can get a new one with rear x member from North offroad an cage mounts already fitted. I will get a galv'd bulkhead though

may be get a brand new one galvanised and store it ready and waiting.

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If possible electro galvanize the bulkhead and you avoid all the potential warping issues. It's fully painted anyway and it takes a LOT more time to prep something galvanized to get the paint right than something that has been 'electro galvanized'.

If you do hot dip it, brace it in 3 locations, front and back of the outrigger mounts (I did one side, and the wrong one and ended up with a warp, symetric and fixable but still a pain) and across the windshield mount holes and you should be good. I would also do it plenty in advance so you can spend hours sanding it smooth again and the paint shop will charge you a whole lot less.

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Oh and on the chassis, they're cheap enough to just get one really in the long run. To compare....

Sandblast and galvanize existing chassis plus welding repairs, I'd guess probably 600-800GBP on average with one that is in visibly good condition and you still don't know if you got good interior coverage since you can't sandblast there. Someone who's had this done in the UK can probably give a better estimate.

New chassis, what 1200GBP and a trailer? No brainer really.

You're also lucky, mine cost nearly 2000GBP after shipping.

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With a new chassis you can build it up and do a fair bit before having to take your existing vehicle off the road, how much longer would you be off the road stripping, repairing and galvanising your chassis?

Now.... where is that chassis swap in a weekend vid???

Out of interest, any idea what it costs to galvanise a chassis?

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Out of interest, any idea what it costs to galvanise a chassis?

£300ish apparently including shot blasting... Just remembered this was discussed in this thread on LRO recently and might be useful to this discussion.

http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47554&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20

The reconditioned then galvanised chassis looks good, but i stand by what i said earlier about the interior of it. It could be wasted time and money and a lot of effort to go to if the inside isnt done properly.

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Being able to build on the new chassis is key, not sure how many times you've done it, but if it's your first one it pays to be able to see both at once. :) I'm still trying to remember where everything goes.

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Thanks All I won't paint the bulkhead as aesthetics aren't really my thing.

The trucks are enough of a target for scrotes, without advertising "I have lots of shiney galvanised parts and have been fully rebuilt"!

I've painted my galv chassis black for that very reason.

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No competition Tony, get a Richards Chassis.

After you have spent all the time stripping your truck it would be a crime not to have a new chassis especially given you have all the kit why scrimp at the last hurdle, plus they are pretty reasonable considering what you get.

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Whilst "electro galvanizing" (electro plating really) will avoid warping, the level of protection it affords is pitiful in comparison to hot dipped galvanizing - just look at your electroplated bolts after 5 minutes exposed to road salt and you will see what I mean.

Yes, HDG may cause some distortion, but bulkheads have been galv'd before and as long as you take the right precautions (temporary bracing members etc) then you shouldn't have a problem. Doesn't the Bell Auto TDV6 have a HDG bulkhead? I am sure I saw a picture of it going in the bath? Might be worth a pm...

Anyhow, it could probably warp a couple of feet before LR tolerances are exhausted! :lol:

My 2p.

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Although that's true - it does not provide the same level of protection. You can decide how much protection you want.

Most cheap stuff has about 5 micron thickness of zinc. I have most stuff done in 12 micron and a couple of things in 25 where they suffer more direct abrasion. The same place coats stuff for the coastguard (30 micron) and MOD (even thicker).

It is just a question of how long you leave it in the tank. Obviously it costs more - but you can get a decent level of protection if you ask.

The passivate makes a good undercoat for painting - paint adheres to it very well. In the case of a bulkhead which should be fully painted anyway - I would not hesitate to go down the zinc & pas route. After all, a painted bulkhead lasts, what, 10 to 20 years? I suspect the oil will have run out before a Zinc & Passivate + paint bulkhead needs replacing!

Si

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Another vote for Richards, makes the job hassle free, and they are very nice people to deal with, when I went to pick mine up I had a guided tour of their new workshop and their new challenge truck

one word of warning, when you arrive home get some help as they are chuffing heavy, its a 4 person lift with big people, safer for your back with 6 people...

Mike

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I'll add to the comment about Richards Chassis. Mine is a SWB S3, and I bought it without a rear crossmember (I made my own).

post-2-126727431788_thumb.jpg

post-2-126727432901_thumb.jpg

Almost no weld spatter, good quality welds throughout, measurements against genuine dimensions were excellent, and the steel is nice and thick - perhaps better than original in my opinion.

Les.

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Although that's true - it does not provide the same level of protection. You can decide how much protection you want.

"Standard" HDG will give you 85 microns minimum and, most importantly, a really robust bond with the parent metal.

Yes you can "choose" your thickness of coating, but BZP will never compare to HDG.

It might be interesting to see a cost comparison though. Also, how good is BZP at coating complex internal surfaces? I have no idea.

If I was doing it I'd be going HDG.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I payed just over £200 ( a few ears ago) to have my 100" chassis blasted, dipped and door to door collection / delivery.

I'll be going to the galvers tommorow to get my 90 chassis booked in so i'll get a price soon.

Well after much delay i finally got the bill for galving my 90 chassis, £195+vat including blasting at £90+vat, Weight was 163kg which sounds about right as my 100" chassis was 175kg.

hope this helps

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If you plan to get an old chassis galvanised be sure to choose a reputable company that offer guarantees.If not you could do all the prep and repair work only to have the chassis "blow" in the galv bath(more common than you would expect :angry: ) leaving you with no chassis and a still having to pay!!! richards probably get around 4/5 chassis a week back from galv that are damaged and unfit for sale so they have to be scrapped(at richards cost :o )

Paul

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