MogLite Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 I need to start gathering components for wiring up MogLite. What I'd like is to run a big fat cable into a fuse-box and get maybe 8-10 fused circuits out Going trough a separate bus-bar seems messy, as does pulling a load of wires off of the positive terminal on the battery. Anyone got a neat solution to this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 have a look here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MogLite Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 have a look here I've been a Vehicle Wiring Products user for years, alas they don't have a neat solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Found something similar in a 1990 Metro (K-Series), but only with 4 Maxi-Fuse outlets. Maybe a browse round a scrappy may turn something up. I keep stackable fuseholders in stock, but making a common bus would be messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 have a look here I've been a Vehicle Wiring Products user for years, alas they don't have a neat solution Autosparks here may have something... Cheers Pete 74 SIII Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 cant u just use rangie/disco one? whichever u have from breaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MogLite Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 cant u just use rangie/disco one? whichever u have from breaking There are about 20 fuses in the Rangie one, and each has a separate feed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 What about the front fuse box in a Disco (the one under the bonnet just behind the battery). Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 I tend to use Ward Brooke terminal blocks breaking out to the VWP fusebox: WB 1146 twenty terminals, 10 rows by two columns, 8/32 UNC terminals, luvly Dunno what the option for purchase is though as Ultra Electronics tend to only deal with the industry, you might be able to get a sample if you play your cards right with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 For the additional fuse box in my 110 I have one of these from here. I have 2 2mm cables from each of the 4 small ports going to an 8 way VWP fuse box. Not the best solution, but like you I couldn't find a fuse box that took one single big input cable and supplied all the outputs. I shall probably do similar when I fit a secondry/accessory fuse box in the 90, unless someone comes up with a decent single supply fuse box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Hello, If you want to keep the existing installation and only add new circuits, it's uselful to run one power cable from battery to a distribution point and split the output via two separate relays controlled by ignition and lights . A compact alternative to a bus bar (if fitted inside the cabin) is here: http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/la.../R423958-91.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormhole Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 I have used this fuse box from VWP (at the bottom), provide the best solution for my leisure battery, might not be ideal in your case though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrage Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 How about my solution, takes a bit of fiddling to get it right but works a treat. The holes in the bus allow for a ring crimp, secured by a bolt and nylock that provides the input power. The bus was made up by flattening a piece of 15mm copper pipe (giving double the thickness). cut the pipe into a combe shape to match the terminals on the fuse carrier and then solder on to the terminals. Downside's are that you will need to make up a cover to prevent it coming into contact with any stray steelwork, but thats quite simple. looks ok in the dash: Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MogLite Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 There have been some fine suggestions, but nothing like what I was after. Is there any reason why, I can't use a "Bus Bar" like this and run it into a conventional 10 way fuse box ? It looks bootie, but I can't see why it wont work. Obviously insulation would need to be more than a wrap of insulation tape, but that isn't difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrage Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 can't see why not, but you will still need to mount it and protect it from any stray metal. Ive used a similar method behind my dash to common up all my earths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Probably better using copper or brass washers. Keep it blathered in Vaseline to stop corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpb Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 I was thinking of doing much the same with a bolt. I was going to mount it in a Plastic Project Box from Maplin Electronics, to stop it touching the bodywork. The other advantage of this system is, its easy to add extra wiring. Martin 1996 Defender 90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 There have been some fine suggestions, but nothing like what I was after.Is there any reason why, I can't use a "Bus Bar" like this and run it into a conventional 10 way fuse box ? It looks bootie, but I can't see why it wont work. Obviously insulation would need to be more than a wrap of insulation tape, but that isn't difficult. it will, until rot gets at it, four star connection is the max for a safe long life with the connections as fuss: \ / \/ O /\ / \ The ring crimps then sit on each other with no packing washers required, this then means you don't suffer from dissimilar metal corrosion as all the crimps are together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrage Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 I went down this route originally, but with all my electrics mounted on the back of the dash panel i didn't have anywhere to mount the seperate busbar and 16 wires all going from the same point on back of the dash to the same point on the front seemed wasteful and was a pain in the ass to get the dashboard front back on! I was going to use these to bus together the cables from VWP: They are meant for linking earths but as they're on a plastic base would work ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 oh kay, lets try that again as we got auto-format for text on here..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roguevogue Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 As has been said, the 300 tdi discovery under bonnet fuse box from behind the battery is the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 Have a look at this page of VWP's catalogue - Modular fuse and relay housing system A modular system for mounting combinations of fuses and relays. Two types of housings are available; 4 module or 5 module. Six types of modules are available which accept various combinations of maxi-blade fuses (FBX), mini-blade fuses (FBM), micro relays (MR15, MR25), standard relays (R20B, R30A etc) and maxi relays (high current relay R70N). The modules are wired from underneath. Terminals are crimped or soldered onto cables then pushed into place. Tabs on the terminals latch them into place. Order all parts separately: (Housing + Cover + Modules + Terminals). Four module housing and cover. (Accepts any 4 modules) Mounts flush to bulkhead and is wired through a cutout in the bulkhead. Dimensions: 165 x 100mm exc lugs. Height inc cover 66mm. Housing Ref: 1520X £7.20 Cover Ref: 1530X £4.89 Five module housing and cover. (Accepts any 5 modules) Has stand-off mounting lugs that allows for wiring from under sides. Dimensions: 200 x 100 exc lugs. Height inc cover 96mm. Housing Ref: 1450X £8.32 Cover Ref: 1540X £5.19 Modules. 1. Accepts 6 maxi-blade fuses. This module has an integral busbar that feeds all 6 fuses. Common feed is by an M8 stud. Ref: 1470X £15.50 2. Accepts 20 mini-blade fuses. Ref: 1460X £6.66 3. Accepts 10 mini-blade fuses and one maxi-relay. Ref: 1510X £9.12 4. Accepts 6 micro-relays. Ref: 1480X £9.12 5. Accepts 2 standard relays. Ref: 1500X £9.12 6. Accepts 1 standard relay and 1 maxi-relay. Ref: 1490X £9.12 Terminals. Terminals for maxi-blade fuse modules. Order 1 terminal per fuse. Maxi blade fuse modules have integral busbar feeding all six fuses. Ref. Cable. Ea. 10. 3-7650 1.5-2.5mm2 66p £4.96 3-7660 4-6mm2 66p £4.97 3-7670 8-10mm2 68p £5.09 3-76710 16mm2 £2.09 £15.70 Terminals for mini-blade fuse modules. Mini-blade fuses can either be fed individually or adjacent fuses linked by busbar. Order 2 terminals per fuse unless using busbar. Mini blade fuse terminals. Ref. Cable. Ea. 10. 3-8331 1-2mm2 15p £10.98 3-8332 2.5-4mm2 15p £10.86 Busbar terminals. (Strip of 10) Ref. Cable. Ea. 3-8335 1-2mm2 £1.91 3-8336 2.5-4mm2 £1.89 Terminals for micro and standard relay modules. Micro relays require 2 x 6.3mm terminals and 2 or 3 x 4.8mm terminals. Standard relays use 6.3mm terminals. 4.8mm blade. Ref. Cable. Ea. 10. 3-5620 0.5-1mm2 30p £22.14 3-5630 1.5-2.5mm2 30p £22.14 6.3mm blade. Ref. Cable. Ea. 10. 3-2050 2.5-4mm2 60p £45.21 Terminals for power circuits on maxi relay modules. For coil circuit use same as standard relay (Ref: 3-2050). 9mm blade. Ref. Cable. Ea. 10. 3-07740 2.5-5mm2 69p £25.83 3-07741 6-8mm2 70p £26.31 I'll be using them in any future wiring projects. Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall_CSK Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 That is very neat & quite reasonable. Wish that was available when I started the project, then again Edison was still kicking around when I started mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Becks Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 If you don't like the gold plated car hifi stuff, you can use a marine distribution stud like this neat one from Bepmarine. For the outgoing cables are insufficiently protected by the big main fuse they should be run as short as possible and well fastened to a generic fuse box. Accessory bus for small cables: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john cranfield Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 I have used exactly what you were asking for. A single heavy feed to eight spade fuses. I can't remember the supplier but I have my local parts store that got it for me looking it up. Will post when the info come in. John . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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