200 tdi Compression Test Results

[Marks 110]

Finally got round to doing a compression test on the 110. Results as follows

No.1-435psi

No.2-450psi

No.3-440psi

No.4-365psi

These results would seem to tally up with the fact that the conrod on no.4 is suspected to be bent. Landrover recommend a difference of no more than 70psi between cylinders so my figures do exceed that.

The other readings seem pretty good to me for 160.000 miles. It took about four strokes to reach max compression.

The vehicle runs fine once warmed up but chucks out lots of smoke for a couple of minutes when started from cold and seems a bit 'lumpy'.

Wondering whether I can get away with just replacing conrod if rest of engine is in reasonable health?

Just wondering if anybody else had any figures for comparison?

Cheers Mark

[Les Henson]

No comparative figures I'm afraid, but replacing the conrod will most likeley be all that's needed. Engine out though I'm afraid - the ladder frame prevents this job being done in-situ.

Les.

[Marks 110]

No comparative figures I'm afraid, but replacing the conrod will most likeley be all that's needed. Engine out though I'm afraid - the ladder frame prevents this job being done in-situ.

Les.

Would you use a new bearing or stick with old if its in reasonable condition?

Mark

[gee1599]

if its apart i would also fit a new set of big end bearings

[Les Henson]

If you fit a new small-end bearing, then it'll have to be reamed to match the piston (gudgeon) pin, so a new conrod would be better as the small-end bearing will already be fitted and reamed. Big-end shells can just be fitted - like for like, so no problem there. If you are going to go to the length of removing the ladder frame on a 200TDi engine, then for the cost of it (about £50), then replace the main and big-end shells while you are 'in there'. Big-end, and main shells are phosphor bronze, so wear is easily visible (if you can see copper, then replace), small end bearings can easily be identified as being worn by wear marks on them. I would remove the head first and measure piston protrusion, then go from there before taking the whole engine apart.

Les.

[Marks 110]

If you fit a new small-end bearing, then it'll have to be reamed to match the piston (gudgeon) pin, so a new conrod would be better as the small-end bearing will already be fitted and reamed. Big-end shells can just be fitted - like for like, so no problem there. If you are going to go to the length of removing the ladder frame on a 200TDi engine, then for the cost of it (about £50), then replace the main and big-end shells while you are 'in there'. Big-end, and main shells are phosphor bronze, so wear is easily visible (if you can see copper, then replace), small end bearings can easily be identified as being worn by wear marks on them. I would remove the head first and measure piston protrusion, then go from there before taking the whole engine apart.

Les.

Cheers Les

That seems like good advice but as a total novice to engine work I'm concerned that the more I do the more likely I am to something wrong and ruin the engine. I don't mind spending a bit of money as the engine needs to be reliable for a trip to France in the summer but are these jobs relatively easy?

I've thought about having it reconditioned but it sems a shame if the rest of the engine is in reasonable health, there may be another 100,000 miles left in it!

Mark