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brake bleeding


JST

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after the caliper fell on the floor and bent the brake pipe too much i need to replace the pipe.

drivers side front.

will i need to bleed the whole system after replacing this pipe? or just that wheel or just the fronts?

2nd question - how do you check the rear brakes are working correctly, Tony pointed out this weekend that on steep inclines with brakes on front where locked although rear wheel still going around a little. (with nose down) if anything i would have though rears would have easily locked (ltd weight etc)) no i dont have a rooling road handy!

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after the caliper fell on the floor and bent the brake pipe too much i need to replace the pipe.

drivers side front.

will i need to bleed the whole system after replacing this pipe? or just that wheel or just the fronts?

2nd question - how do you check the rear brakes are working correctly, Tony pointed out this weekend that on steep inclines with brakes on front where locked although rear wheel still going around a little. (with nose down) if anything i would have though rears would have easily locked (ltd weight etc)) no i dont have a rooling road handy!

You should bleed all the brakes. You will probably get away with just the one. Especially if you have a brake hose clamp (DO NOT use on Goodrich type hoses!)

The front brakes should lock first. Imagine the excitement if, when cornering you jabbed the brakes, the rears locked and the whole thing went into a spin? :) The front wheels also have more weight on them when braking, that is why the front end dips down. Ever noticed that you have bigger, 4 pot calipers on the front and smaller weedy little 2 pot on the rears?

Chris

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cheers Chris, running braided hoses so wont be clamping them, lookslike bleed all then!

appreciate your comments on the calipers, i thought they looked bigger...............

just thought the rears would lock as well with the brakes on Maximum but vehicle just locked front and slid.

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cheers Chris, running braided hoses so wont be clamping them, lookslike bleed all then!

appreciate your comments on the calipers, i thought they looked bigger...............

just thought the rears would lock as well with the brakes on Maximum but vehicle just locked front and slid.

If you apply enough brake peddle then they should lock - even on the road - just after the fronts. You might question whether they are working properly!

Chris

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To check your brakes put them on a proper roller tester, (I always put the transfer box into nuetral, but I am told by Mr Mechanic it doesnt have to be, not for short bursts anyway) the readings can be checked against the chart, but I believe that only 20% of braking comes from the rears.

Geoff

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When I did the Discovery CV etc last week I got away with bleeding just the wheel I worked on. used a lashed up EZbleed and it worked first time. I hadn't clamped the flexi bit and had replaced the rigid pipe on the caliper (coz I am stupid and kinked the pipe in the process, DOH. Pedal is rock hard now and it pulls up fine and straight.

Will :)

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cheers for the answers guys, Will i know where you are coming from with that one, well changed one front pipe and disconnected the other to cut and easy access slit into the mounting bracket on top of the swivel for them.

bleed just the fronts and seems OK, road test will tell!

fluid level didnt fall to bottom in the rear compartment of the res so should hopefully have got away with no air being introduced into the rears.

Wheel bearing also done

so ready to go again - expect the diff will whine now.............

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