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Notchy gear change


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Today whilst in low ratio the gear lever become stiff, this happened when going backwards. The gear lever got stuck and wouldnt move, Turned engine off and tried again, no luck, after approx 2 mins managed to get it into a forward gear, but gear lever remained notchy, The problem is only there sometimes, managed to limp it home but you could change gear it was stiff but possible. After i parked up and left vehicle for approx 10 mins, got back in and found that the lever had freed up and was really smooth again. Went through all gear changes whist stationary but with engine running, this was fine for about 3 complete gear changes through box, then it went stiff and notchy again.

When you are in gear and press clutch pedal down the clutch works fine and you can even sit there with it in gear but with pedal down to the floor and all is fine as it disengages the drive.

The clutch was completely overhauled last August with new slave, master, pressure plate and release bearing and a heavy duty arm fitted.

The defender is a 300 tdi on a 1994 plate

It seem to me like something to do with the gear selector, but not sure what.

Any ideas?

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Last night I went under truck due to this naughty notchy nature of gear. And realised the oil was far too low. Upon filling it with oil, I observe a BIG difference. Uncle Les might be heading towards something for sure!!!!

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Not checked oil recently, but will go and do it today, and most probely change the oil for new, as i havent changed the oil since i bought the defender in dec 08.

I bought it from foleys and they did a full service before buying it, so not really paid any notice to gearbox oil.

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Been and tried again to work out whats gone wrong, have worked out that if you put it in gear and release clutch, its fine and then grabs clutch, and then if you press clutch pedal to floor it is not disengaging gear until you move gear stick into neutrel, as you can feel vehicle roll slighty on moving stick into neutrel.

Looks like to me as i have to remove gearbox again.

Just realised that clutch pedal height is 170 mm and not the 140mm recommened height, would this cause a problem.

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Have reset pedal, but no difference,

But have discovered that when you first turn engine over to start you can hear the clutch dragging trying to turn gears over as well. But if you try to start it with clutch pedal pressed down to the floor, it is just the engine which turns over.

Will start with rebleeding system first.

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Well, D3 is a bit cheaper than Gen only MTF94, and as the LT77 has done perfectly well on D3 for a number of years - I can't see why L/R have decided to say that MTF94 is better. Of course - if I was cynical, I could suggest that their sales of MTF94 would go up (seeing as how only they supply it) :)

Les.

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I think it means 'earlier vehicles' to mean the 300Tdi R380s as opposed to the Td5 R380. The bulletin is listed as applying to 'all R380 manual gearbox derivatives'.

I have heard of people putting MTF in their LT77 boxes, but the official Land Rover word as above and indeed Ashcroft's recommendation to use ATF means I'll be sticking with that in mine until it dies and an R380 goes in.

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as the subject vehicle is a ^^^^^ it needs MTF94. as it has a R380 main gearbox. I didn't state LT77 anywhere.

Possibly I misinterpreted you Ralph, but when you said:

LR have recommended MTF94 for all the 90/110/Defender manual boxes for a few years now.

I just wanted to clarify that for LT77 boxes it's ATF and R380 ones it's MTF.

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