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Front body mounts....


streaky
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There are four rubber Hocky Puk type body mounts at the front end of the 300 V8 Discovery. Two are in line with the bulkhead and two are further forward near the radiator.

One of the steel mounts on mine has cracked and I'll have to get it welded but what are the best tricks to replace these mounts? Do I simply have to undo the nuts and lift the body? Whats the best way of replacing them and what else would I have to undo before I can raiser the body a few inches?

Whats the most common way of lifting the body?

Thx.

S.

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The mounts are a little kit - bolt, nut, 1 x large washers, spacer tube, and 2 x rubbers. As far as I remember, the bolt head and nut are 14mm. You shoulde be able to remove the bolt and jack the body up a small amount so that the rubber, etc, come out. Bit of a tight corner to work in, but it's dooable.

Les.

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Sheltie. One of the pressed steel mounting points has cracked from hard driving (not corrosion), this is the bit that I will get welded.

Les. I didn't see anything about a kit at the parts place so I just bought a couple of the rubber mounts. I'm not doing the job myself but I don't think the workshop doing this has done them before either. I spoke to the guy yesterday and he seemed to think that a slight body lift was needed to get the new rubbers in. Are we way off target with that train of thought then? May be I can undo/remove the bolt going through the center of the mounts so I can slide them into the gap? Is that teh right way of doing it then?

Thx.

S.

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Sorry - I ddin't mean it came as a kit (although it might do from some suppliers). The problem with removing it is the spacer tube inside, which prevents the rubbers from being removed seperateley. The body can be jacked up a small amount - natural flex of the bodywork. I would replace the spacer anyway - they tend to rot away inside the rubber and are pretty shot when they are removed.

Les.

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hi .

renewed most of my body mounts recently on MAJOR disco renovation project.

you dont have to lift body to fit mounting rubbers and bolts.

the kit will comprise of, starting at the base of each mount, spacer tube fixed to base washer, rubber disc with raised centre,a second rubber disc with raised part facing downwards (against lower rubbers raised centre-this is where the sill mount is sandwiched) and large flat washer on top.

lift up your carpets and remove the plastic plugs in the steel floor. the mount bolts are under these plugs and will accept 14mm socket.

now the bad news.

they will be rusted solid.

if you can get an angle grinder at the bolt heads, cut them off, or centre drill the heads and go up in drill sizes until the heads are drilled off. spray releasing oil and wait.

then you may be able to beat rhe bolts downwards and out, releasing old mounts.

mine were so rusted in, i had to disc cut the mounts in half, but this is very difficult. i had cut off my rusted sills to fit 100mmx50mm 4mm steel box section sills which aided access, and made new sill mounting points from 70mmx70mm x4mm steel box section cut diagonally.

best of british fella!!

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The two mounts need treating differently, but either way you will need to lift the body a little. The difference is that if you need to get the bulkhead mount out you have to lift the body about an inch on that side which entails more work. The reason for this is that the bolts go in from above and can't be removed without lifting the body far enough to angle to rubber/washer/top-hat assembly over about 20 degrees.

So - if it's the front mounts:

Loosen off all five body mounts down that side, and with a large spreader along the sill - jack the body up. I won't come far, but will be far enough.

If it's the bulkhead mounts, remove the nuts from all five body mounts on that side AND the inner seat-belt anchors and body mounts. Loosen the nut on the other side bulkhead mount, loosen the steering splined joints, and lift carefully on the side that you need to remove. The gear levers should be ok with the small amount of lift you need here. Ensure that you don't strain any of the pipes and wires etc that cross between the body and the engine. Once it's lifted about an inch you will be able to angle over the rubber assembly and remove the bolt.

When I did mine recently I removed all ten bolts and replaced them from below to make it all easier next time.

Hope this helps.

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