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USB socket


Anderzander
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Has anyone found a USB socket that could be fitted in to the dash panel ? so that I could charge phones, ipods and sat nav's etc?

The only things I can find are adaptors to plug into a cigarette lighter socket but I don't fancy that I want a panel mounted one.... but the only panel mounted ones I can find are to convert USB A to USB etc:

9500343.jpg

This is an extension for a clarion Hifi - but would make a nice neat front end. It'd be an expensive way of doing it though - to buy it and cut the cable down and just wire it up for power..

CCAUSB.jpg

Anyone able to point me in the right direction.

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hmmm ......I'd rather find a socket though than pay for a new stereo. I don't really even listen to music that much :blink:

This is interesting:

wpusbax_main.jpg

A waterproof extension cable with a panel mounted end. I guess I'd just cut the USB plug off the other end and wire it into a 12v feed and earth.

link

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As others have said, you want a 5V supply into the usb socket, not 12V.

Also quite a few more recent devices (phones, GPS etc.) require more than the USB standard 500mA to charge properly.

These devices will not charge properly if they think they are connected to a PC port, rather than a dedicated charger.

Several ways are used to signal this, but the most common one of late is for the charger to short the two data wires together to indicate a dedicated charger. This is used by Nokia amongst others.

At least, don't cut the data wires off too short until you're sure you won't ever need them :)

From memory, standard usb wiring colours are :-

Red - 5V

White - data (-)

Green - data (+)

Black - Ground

Dave

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Several ways are used to signal this, but the most common one of late is for the charger to short the two data wires together to indicate a dedicated charger. This is used by Nokia amongst others.

That's interesting to learn. Certainly my car charger works, but it's not as fast as the wall charger. I'll give it a go.

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That's interesting to learn. Certainly my car charger works, but it's not as fast as the wall charger. I'll give it a go.

Complete info on the various options and specs is here but shorting D+ to D- indicates a 'dedicated charging port' which implies 5.0V +/- 0.25V at up to 1.5A, and should be safe for any USB device to be plugged into.

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The Neutrik panel connectors are a pretty decent solution:

999199905-40.jpg999200605-40.jpg

http://cpc.farnell.com/neutrik/nausb/adaptor-usb-d-type/dp/CN09520

An LM7805 regulator IC is pretty small and will give you a steady 5v at up to 1.5A (I think higher current ones may be available these days, to run several sockets from one).

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An LM7805 regulator IC is pretty small and will give you a steady 5v at up to 1.5A (I think higher current ones may be available these days, to run several sockets from one).

Be aware that the usual plastic packaged variety (TO-220) of L7805 will be running close to it's thermal limits at 1.5A on a decent heatisnk. Depending on manufacturer they start to shut down around 125C or 150C internal.

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No, the hubs are all DC devices with a wallwart, so just need to convert DC-DC to power one. Will depend on what's available at the time, doing custom dash panels (think SIIA) so easy enough to mount up a series of accessories.

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I just got one of those cigarette lighter extension thingies with 3x lighter socket and 2xUSB, works very well and even came with its own sticky tape to stick it wherever you want. Cost me €12 or so in the local car accessory shop.

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hi all, sorry for the thread jack, but I'm trying to fix my tomtom rider charger. It's never worked properly and requires 5v and 2amps.

I bought a couple of 7805's and thought I could wire them in parallel to cover the draw, I guess Ideally I need 3. But on the maplin site it said you can't do this.

I tried anyway and while it does work, they get very hot even when the tomtom isn't charging. I assume there's something else going on here.

Do I need to add a diode to the 5v out of the regulator circuit to make this work properly?

hope that makes sense, thanks Ruu

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well there seems to be a 0.02v difference in output's, any idea how I stop them effecting one another. My electronic ability is very, very basic.

No heat sink at the moment, just testing the theory that it works and then how I package it up at the moment.

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