200 TDI wire routing.

[ajh]

I have the logical wiring diagram but I am a little confused on the proper physical wire routing to get the harness back on my 1992 200TDI 110. I suspect some of this is due to fact I am re-assembling it as LHD over a year after taking things apart (I just cannot believe there have been so many shipping delays) and could use some help identfying where each wire is supposed to run physically around the engine bay. I am trying to avoid doing a

new harness until I have the basics up and running to help avoid furthur confusion. My last big wiring experience was tracking down a bad ground on a D2 and I think that left me a bit scarred. I realize this harness is significantly simpler and well within my abilities but for some reason I am still feeling severe anxiety about working on it. Any advice, especially photos, would be great. I hope to have most of what I need to get things running by this weekend (barring back-orders) and it would feel good to get this step dealt with.

On the upside I expect te rest of the noise damper to get here today and tomorrow so at least I will have the seatbox in place

for the weekend.

To get the engine running I assume the minimum needed is the battery, glow plug

timer, fuel cut-off solenoid, starter relay and starter solenoid wired up?

I have to say I really appreciate the help here and envy the fact you guys can usually just find a working vehicle to compare with. 95% of what I am doing is inferred logically vs by example and some things just do not always seem to work that way.

[Les Henson]

200TDi engine wiring goes - to alternator = along the vaccuum pump side of the head (retained by 2 clips on steel tabs), under the thermostat housing, and down to the back of the alternator. Injector pump, oil sender branch off and down. Starter motor wiring goes across behind the head - retained by 2 clips on steel tabs retained by two top flywheel housing bolts. Main battery to the starter comes along the chassis rail in a direct line from the battery bow under the passenger seat (RHD). There may also be an earth wires that might either go from the back of the starter to the engine block, or from the chassis to the bottom starter motor mounting nut.

Minimum to start it is exciter wire to the starter solenoid, main power from the battery, earth connection, fuel cut off switch. It should start ok without the glow plugs.

Les

[ajh]

Excellent, thanks Les, I think that gives me exactly what I need.

Except the plug at the end of that harness, which bulkhead opening is it intended to go through? I suspect on a LHD there would be an extension harness to make things reach?

Looks like Richards did not put any chassis grounding posts in place before galvanizing either (just also found out they left off the rear exhaust hanger which is why I've been so confused about that) so will probably drill and tap some brackets to put some M8 stainless good solid ground lugs in place as well.

It is odd but I'm really looking forward to doing my 2nd build, then I'll have a working example to go off and it'll go so much faster.

[ajh]

OK, the alternator connector does not fit "under" the thermostat housing unless I remove the bypass pipe, which I know I did not do during disassembly (though I am replacing it this week when the new one arrives so no big deal) so perhaps someone else routed it incorrectly in the past?

[ajh]

Actually even with the hose off there is not enough room.

[western]

the standard factory engine loom fits on top of the timing case & below the thermostat housing, [as on my 200tdi]

if you want yours routed the right way, probablty quicker to take the stat housing off, run the loom through & refit the stat housing.

[ajh]

OK, that makes sense. Will fix it later when I need to do that. Thanks, I think I've sorted out everything except the oil pressure switch so far.

[Les Henson]

If you are using the 200TDi alternator with the ring connectors, then the plug is no good. In that case - cut the plug off and thread the wire through without removing anything.

Les.

[ajh]

Hmm, guess I forgot to hit Post earlier. The alternator has the plug and everything is hooked up fine, except the oil pressure switch which was apparently broken at some point so added a new one to my current shipment. Just finished up applying sealant to the bottom of the seatbox to cover up the butyl matting sound deadener and hopefully in a day or two I should have it in place and be able to start hooking up some more bits as well as my modified rad frame (had to push the rad back 3 inches to let the intercooler clear the winch) and will hopefully be able to look at getting things to turn over. (another fun one is that the aux right-arch tank gets in the way of just about any work back there so has to sit out until that's done, which means fitting a petcock on the transfer pipe if I'm going to put any fuel into the main tank, will have to handle that one tomorrow as well.

At least it FEELS like progress.

Thanks.