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Chassis protection


GBMUD

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I was chatting with a Landrover owning neighbour yesterday and he told me he has found a powder coater with an oven large enough to do a Landrover 80" chassis he has prior to a rebuild. Any comments on powder coat as a chassis coating?

Chris

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Hi Chris, I was very dubious about powder coat chipping etc until I had my roll cage done via Anton at OEC. The finish is very tough and despite severe abuse against trees I have thus far managed only to lightly scuff the surface. I would suggest that the quality of the powder coating would be the only issue with having a chassis done- good quality would be worth it IMHO. Yes carp plastic coatings will peel off- as on bull bars etc but proper powder coat appears to be in a different league.

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Wont the powder coat on a chassis partially get in the holes and not seal properly against the inside of the chassis? If so, water inside the chassis will leak under the powder coat and rust it. I cant imagine the coating will cover the inside effectivley leaving areas that are prone to water ingress.

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The quality of the powder coating makes a huge differance - **** powder coating is just that! The surface prep is vital to ensuring a high quality, durable finish. Ensure that they blast the surface to give a good key followed by a zinc rich primer or zinc flame spray. Then a nice, thick coat over the top.

To be honest, most places should be able to do a chassis. The best should be able to do a whole lot bigger. As reb suggested, a LR chassis may not be well suited to powder coating as the chassis isn't sealed. However, that can be changed.....

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surely the powder coat would only cover the outside? dont chassis need to be protected inside and out?

Galv first then powder coat if you want a specific look.

Exactly - Powder coat will not (fully) get to the inside, the powder is applied electrostatically, much better to get a galvaniser to galvanise and powder coat outside and as much of inside as possible. Threads will need cleaning after galvanising. Time in oven is crucial to get the whole of the metal chassis at correct temperature and LR chassis do vary in thickness at key stress points. We have just made a lot of frames using 100x50x2mm wall steel box (nicely welded by Paul at the Forge :D )and then powder coated and the coating did not reach fully inside. But because the frames will be used indoors not a big issue for corrosion.

Other replies regarding bull bars are not entirely correct, most of these are coated in a dipped plastic coating and yes the water does get under the coating when damaged mainly because the coating forms a layer rather than a bonded coating. Powder coat is much tougher, I had most of the black steel parts off the nas about 6 years ago, galvanised and black powder coat and very little chipping and although dulled by UV soon comes up brighter with some T-Cut and elbow grease :P

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mine was done by a firm in East Sussex, highly reccomended and good price.

It's been done for over a year, has been scuffed, scraped and taken a pounding from gravel roads.

My chassis was galv'd then I had a course cold zinc spray added to key the surface for powder coating. The actual powder coating was one used offshore and is incredibly resiliant. I am over the moon with it. :)

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My chassis was galv'd then I had a course cold zinc spray added to key the surface for powder coating. The actual powder coating was one used offshore and is incredibly resiliant. I am over the moon with it. :)

Sounds nice. Any idea of the costs? My chassis is galvanised already, might leave it like that but your idea sounds nice also.

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Sounds nice. Any idea of the costs? My chassis is galvanised already, might leave it like that but your idea sounds nice also.

Was somewhere near £200 if I remember right. They even turned it around in a day, so I transported it down and had it on the trailer later in the evening. Spent a nice day at the seaside (which kept the WAG happy :lol: )

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It's worth remembering that galv is not like a coat of paint, it is protecting the chassis by acting as a sacrificial element, so even scratches/scuffs with no galv on will not rust anywhere near as quickly because the zinc nearby is helping to protect it. As such, even perfect powder coating would not be as good at protecting from rust as even a patchy galv job. Any flaw, chip, or scratch in the powder and the rust would be away.

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