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Clutch related Issues


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I have been keenly watching on topics related to clutch removal,replacement and the like on the forum. It is like a nightmare which constantly notches my mind. I think my time is up to get this problem solved. Will change DMF and Clutch plate for sure. SWIMBO has given me the permission to use her Mercedes.I dread this jobsad.gif ( I learnt it's fun)

*Question nr 1--> Should I use Britpart (DA2357HD)? Per picture..

*Question nr 2-->Whiles in there what should I be prepared to meet so that I get all the parts readily available? Rear crank seal, Spigot bearing, Clutch fork ......

The truck a td5 110 MY has gone almost 189000 km without any judder or slip but I'm afraid of the clonkings and donkings lately. Someone told me I should also change the spline shaft in there. I am not a mechanic but just a hobby though so the terminologies could be wrongly presented here.

Any help will be well appreciated.

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Use any other make but not brit-part, i fitted britpart clutch parts and they lasted 2 months then had to do the whole job again, as brit-parts failed.

What he said!!!!!!!!!!!

Mine's not a td5. But just changed clutch etc in mine & fitted Veleo. got the 130 clutch plate as it's harder wearing other than that everything else was the same on the 200tdi i have. Paid £116 for the lot inc delivery.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a question...

Last month I converted my defender from 2.5 petrol to disco 200tdi.

I also changed the whole clutch kit. Plate, basket, bearing, connecting rod between fork and cylinder...

After 400km the clutch just died. It doesn`t pull the basket enough away from the plate and so I can`t change gears while driving.

Like there wouldn`t be enough presure in the cylinder to push the fork.

I bleed the system for a couple of times but nothing happens. What is the problem? Any experinces?

Oh, the new connecting rod is aprox. 1cm longer as the old one.

Please help guys.

Thank you again

P.S.: sorry form my bad english. :rtfm:

Trying my best to write as simple as possible :rtfm:

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I'd leave it unless it slips. I thought mine needed doing as my engine had to come out for the new galv chassis. But there was loads of wear left. But changed anyway as a borg and beck clutch set was only £80. Change the fork if your going in there and grease the pivot point with copper slip.

Mine used to bang and clonc but that was the diffs worn and transfer box diff. Check yours before the clutch dude. Hand brake off and chock the wheels then feel for movement in the prop shafts.

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