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Get me to the Garage in Donny. Transporter. Please


tweetyduck
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Anyone have a flat back or way they can get me to RCV (Doncaster Country Vehicles) in Kirk Sandal in Doncaster. Willing to pay beer tokens and it would possibly need to be week after Easter as i need to book it in and they are busy. My transmission is knackered and Fred Cam wants £75 !! for about 9 - 10 miles.

I might risk a drive but can only really manage 2nd gear. The Engine runs fine in neutral so my brakes work so a tow (although i've never done it for this distance) might work.

Eternal gratitude for offers or pointers to somewhere cheaper.

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get on the phone to ashcrofts and get a rebuilt box bought. They're easy enough to change and as per above you'll need to do far more technical stuff than this on an overland-if this is beyond you-forget the trip. Best get the genuine LR manual out/bought, chuck the Haynes in the bin and get on with it.

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I'm with the other Mike - recon box from Ashcrofts, fit it yourself - do the clutch at the same time - then you know the box and clutch are good for your travels. Not a hard job really, just take your time.

Other than that i'm with the other Mike and Aragorn!

Edit - RustyNissanPrarie types faster than me!

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to be honest i'm sort of more bothered about whats wrong with it than getting it fixed.

Guessing its the trans box or gear box would be pretty costly. If i can get the gargage to tell me for £25 what it is i can then make the descision on if i should do it myself. Not forgetting its a bit chunk of metal to remove with no equipment. I'm not worried about doing it apart from dropping it all out if its the full thing.

Plus i;m not sure the wife would entertain the tow. Not a chance.

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And they're not that heavy when you split them apart I can lift the T-box in and out from underneath and I can also lift the Gearbox in and out from leaning in from the cab area by the seat box over the gearbox cross member, it maybe finnicky but you can do it all the same with out equipment!!-and as Mike all the 4's and tony(white 90) says you'll need to start learning sooner rather than later and it'll save you a shed load of cash doing it yourself too, which means you can spend it on some decent parts for the trip you've been planning

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to be honest i'm sort of more bothered about whats wrong with it than getting it fixed.

Guessing its the trans box or gear box would be pretty costly. If i can get the gargage to tell me for £25 what it is i can then make the descision on if i should do it myself. Not forgetting its a bit chunk of metal to remove with no equipment. I'm not worried about doing it apart from dropping it all out if its the full thing.

Plus i;m not sure the wife would entertain the tow. Not a chance.

Its easy to figure out-its 2 boxes of gears, with an inspection plate between them. Use common sense get under the truck look at things and understand how it all works. Think logically. This Lanny needs to be an extension of yourself-you need to know and understandd how every little system works and interacts with itself. you may be wanting to go places that have no support network and it may be you/your familys safety coming down to your ability to get that landrover fixed.

buying equipment to do it yourself will be cheaper than the labour costs, you can either keep the equipment for use again next time or sell before your travels.

Jack one wheel up, pull the 'box inspection plate off, pull the glow plugs out and remove the wire from the fuel stop solenoid. Stick a socket/ratchet on the crankshaft pulley bolt, have helper turn engine over by hand whilst in various gear combinations whilst looking in the inspection plate should help figure things out.

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Anyone have a flat back or way they can get me to RCV (Doncaster Country Vehicles) in Kirk Sandal in Doncaster. Willing to pay beer tokens and it would possibly need to be week after Easter as i need to book it in and they are busy. My transmission is knackered and Fred Cam wants £75 !! for about 9 - 10 miles.

I might risk a drive but can only really manage 2nd gear. The Engine runs fine in neutral so my brakes work so a tow (although i've never done it for this distance) might work.

Eternal gratitude for offers or pointers to somewhere cheaper.

to be honest i'm sort of more bothered about whats wrong with it than getting it fixed.

Guessing its the trans box or gear box would be pretty costly. If i can get the gargage to tell me for £25 what it is i can then make the descision on if i should do it myself. Not forgetting its a bit chunk of metal to remove with no equipment. I'm not worried about doing it apart from dropping it all out if its the full thing.

Plus i;m not sure the wife would entertain the tow. Not a chance.

to me it sounds like the gearbox has had it i wouldn't bother spending £25 for some one to tell you some thing you allready know, i was quoted £350-400 to fix my gear box were as ashcroft only wanted £325 at the time. i'd just fit one from ashcroft.

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If you still want a mechanic to look at it, how about getting the mechanic to come to you? Tell them you'll pay them the £25 inspection, plus £25 for travel/beer. They might pop-in on their way home for cash ;)

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My transmission is knackered and Fred Cam wants £75 !! for about 9 - 10 miles.

Define knackered. :unsure: need more info :o

If engine runs, does main gearbox make a noise in any/all gears if you run transfer box in neutral?

does having low range instead of high range make a difference.

take the props off and try the gearboxes without the diffs.

In short start with the Engine, than the clutch then the main gb, then the transferbox, then the diffs and halfshafts.

Diagnosing is likely to save you the £25 you are relucant to pay after reluctantly paying £75 for a lift to garage.

Echo what RNP says, if you don't have the skills to diagnose this fault with help from the forum from the comfort of your drive in the uk, I wouldn't be attempting a round the world exped with no comms or backup of any sort.

Just buy a jap motor like toyota L200 pickup if you're not interested in learning. :D

Pete

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Repost/cross post from other thread.

Can't get out of H on the low ratio/diff lock leaver. Not even sure it will go into N.

Plus the below.

nasty noises in 3rd. Possibly they are there in 2nd and 1st. But seems to drive in 1st and reverse without concerning me where as i get into 2nd and get worried...and in 3rd i sort of think this isn't right and i'm doing damage. Not perticularly loud noises just doesn't feel right and there is certainly a grinding. Actually feels like its below but infront of the stick so could be front diff but that would be in any gear i think.

I really need someone with more experience than me to drive it. I drove it 3 or 4 times since i did the swivels/bearings and for only about 5 miles on each trip,,,, i could have done something. Although it made it 30 miles on the motorway before the noises mentioned below made me stop. Thus highlighing the Alternator as i couldn't start it again once i'd stopped. (thanksfully in services) Made it about another 20 miles back before the below made me stop for good.

Although the failiure happened at the same time as the alternator and i'm convinced they are not related. There was a squeeling from the engine bay at certain revs then there was the rattling sound like a penny in a washing machine. That stopped and then the loss of mechanical power. Sort of a jerk and then picked back up. This progressivle got to the stage where i didn;t want to go past third so i stopped for good.

I've not drive it since other than round the block in 1,2 and even 2nd seems dodgy.

Hopefully someone might have an idea. Thanks

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1st. I'm am learning.

2nd. I'm an doing stuff myself

3rd. My trip is long enough away for me to learn enough.

4th. Would people stop telling me i'm not ready. I know that and i'm not going next week!

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Its easy to figure out-its 2 boxes of gears, with an inspection plate between them. Use common sense get under the truck look at things and understand how it all works. Think logically. This Lanny needs to be an extension of yourself-you need to know and understandd how every little system works and interacts with itself. you may be wanting to go places that have no support network and it may be you/your familys safety coming down to your ability to get that landrover fixed.

buying equipment to do it yourself will be cheaper than the labour costs, you can either keep the equipment for use again next time or sell before your travels.

Jack one wheel up, pull the 'box inspection plate off, pull the glow plugs out and remove the wire from the fuel stop solenoid. Stick a socket/ratchet on the crankshaft pulley bolt, have helper turn engine over by hand whilst in various gear combinations whilst looking in the inspection plate should help figure things out.

sounds like a good idea. will do that first.

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not read the 'other' thread but has your alternator seized? this appears as though the engine is seizing and loosing power.

also just check the handbrake isnt binding slightly-this causes the shoes to start grabbing the handbrake drum causing a drive train judder. Select neutral and give the handbrake drum a turn by hand with a back wheel jacked up (make sure front is chocked)

Try selecting 4th low range and seeing if it drives around okay-4th gear is direct drive ie dosnt go throught the layshaft, it feels okay, try 4th high range but setting off down a hill once its rolling a bit, again if its okay then its not the transfer box and is the main box and probably the layshaft/bearings.

It isnt in difflock is it? allbeit with the dash light not working? jack front wheel up, select neutral on main box , shove transfer lever over with ignition on, turn front wheel until centre diff locks and wheel unable to turn-light should come on dash, take out of difflock wheel should rotate again, difflock light off.

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Alternator is new and replaced this week.

Handbreak seems fine. When handbreak off the vehicle can be pushed with little effort.

Can't get into low range. This is one of the issues.

Diff lock light on works if i push over the lever to the left.

I can't seem to engage low or N either side

Only H in Lock or no lock seems to work.

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