Get me to the Garage in Donny. Transporter. Please

[reb78]

Try removing the input gear on the transfer box and running the engine through the gears on the main box (could have done that with the TXB in neutral, but not now its in bits and this way isolates everything to the main box). See if there are any odd noises as you run it through the gears. A stethascope helps with this as it lets you listen to the inside of the box quite nicely (i'm a vet, so i have one handy and tried this when my transfer box was on its way out. Worked a treat for identifying where the terrible noise was coming from!!). This might help, but because the box is not under any load, any problems may be less apparent.

[tweetyduck]

Thats a good idea if i understand it correctly. I'm disconnecting the Trans dox from the gear box and running the gearbox to see if anythings amiss. Since the gearbox is disconnected from the trans box no power to the wheels right? The gear box is spinning to see if there's anything broken. How many RMP should i give it? do i just need a tick over speed?

Neutral doesn;t work anyhow so i couldn't try it without removing the input gear.

Next question is how do i remove the input gear ?

thanks for the help !

[reb78]

It will turn in every gear without any extra revs i should think if it is diconnected from the drivetrain. So i would just leave it at tickover. To remove the input gear, take the round plate off of the back of the transfer box, (6 or 8 bolts). Under that is the bearing carrier, there are usually two countersunk screws securing that (may be hidden under the gasket. Remove them and the carrier should gently tap off. May need a chisel just to seperate it from the box - careful not to score anything. Once the carrier is removed, you can pull the input gear - may need to wiggle the front prop a little to loosen it. (have a look at the tech archive under Les description of fitting a GKN overdrive as this is the firt part of that).

Like i say, you may hear nothing untoward as there is no load on the box, but if there are obvious grindings or difficulties engaging gear then it may highlight a problem there too. Stay well away from the output shaft when you are turning the engine over like this. This will also let you see what the state of the splines on the otput shaft are like. If they are well worn, even if there is nothing else wrong with the box you may elect to change it anyway (thats what happened in my case). The splines should be about 1/4 inch wide from memory. If they are worn, they may be much thinner and sharp. On your age of vehicle, this problem nay not have occurred as it was originally caused by poor splash lubrication of the mainshaft and land river may have installed a splash plate or cross drilled input gear at this stage to fix this problem.

It really does sound like the transfer box is at fault here, but worth checking the main box at the same time i think.

HTH

[tweetyduck]

Thanks for that. I appreciate the effort you've made with the response. Sounds like its pretty easy to remove so i'll give it a go.

Hopefully your post combined with all the other posts will get me on my way.

Thanks Everyone.

[steve b]

Hi Neill

I forgot to say in my other post but I would suspect the reason it won't go into N or L is due to the gear cluster dropping out of line because of the bearing cage failure. With no cage all the taper rollers will end up touching and round one section allowing the shaft/gears to move into the space left and thus out of line. the difflock would go in if the lever could move as it works in H where its stuck.

Hope that makes sense!

And I'd agree with reb78 check it with the o/p gear removed

cheers

Steveb

[zoltan]

Following on with the stethoscope suggestion for listening for nasty noises, we always use a long screw driver as a listening device when running the dyno if something doesn't sound right. Especially good for tappets. Place it perpendicular to the surface and press your ear onto the handle. It is surprising how well you can hear various good and bad noises that way and it does isolate out any surrounding noises from the area you want to listen to

[tweetyduck]

Thanks guys. Next chance i get.

[pete3000]

Take back my comments about not having a go and learning, good job so far Neil.

To follow on from Errol and reb78 excellent advice. have a look at the photos in this link to see the gearbox output shaft once transfer box input gear is out.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49403

It's worth checking whilst out, with a torch you should bea ble to see the square splines around the main box shaft. A little wear is normal, however if you have very small triangles left then the main gearbox output shaft may be past it's best. The black death which is brown rusty sludge appeared from mine and a new box was the order of the day.

Hopefully if all is well with the shaft inspection and engine test you can confine your investigations to transfer box/bearings.

Pete

[tweetyduck]

Thanks pete.

now i know what i'm looking for. Not done it yet as F1 took priority on Sunday. Might be a job for the bank holiday if it stops raining.

[tweetyduck]

right i've removed the round plate and the one behind that and removed a cog with a bearing at each end and a gear in the middle.

Am i correct in assuming that zero power is sent to the wheels now. If a start it up and put in in gear its not going to spin its wheels.

IS IT ????

[DaveSIIA]

You have successfully removed the transfer box input gear. Time to check the splines on the main box output shaft for wear. Also check the splines on the input gear while it is in your hand and that it is cross drilled (has big holes through it to let oil in to the splines).

The vehicle will go nowhere while the input gear is missing. You can safely run up the engine and check for noises in all 5 forward gears and reverse.

[tweetyduck]

Thanks vm Dave,

Wear = nothing they all look good.

Holes are there.

Noises...with clutch up and in neutral theres a distinct noise. Might be clutch?

With clutch down. Noise goes.

In each gear it all sounds OK (OK to me anyhow) apart from the noise from the clutch in the background.

The trans box bearing looks to be the issue so i need to take off the prop and brake drum and replace that.

Thanks Again All.

[errol209]

If a start it up and put in in gear its not going to spin its wheels.

IS IT ????

It shouldn't, but back-up for the nervous is to start it with the clutch down and foot on the brake, then put it in a high gear and let the clutch up slowly - it will stall if there is still drive to the wheels.

[reb78]

Sounds like you have isolated the problem to the transfer box. The noise in neutral may well be the clutch release bearing rattling. Mine does that. If the splines are good (probably because you have the crossdrilled input gear fitted), then the main box should have years left in it.

Do you know when the clutch was done last Neill? Just a thought, but while you are busy with the boxes, it may be worth considering doing it at the same time. You are kinda a third of the way there already!

[tweetyduck]

yes. i'm going to do the clutch. think its recent but for the price i might as well.

thanks all. I'll let you know how it goes.

I'm going to move this back to the correct Defender section in my Land Rover in Bits thread.

[tweetyduck]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52813&st=100

help....

its the inner taper bearing. how the hell do i get it out. Please post in the link above.

This thread is closed.

[Happyoldgit]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52813&st=100

This thread is closed.

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