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poor defender 90 brakes


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hi, can anyone give me some light on my poor landy brakes??

im running 265/75/16 tyres and also have new cross drilled discs and pads on the front of my 90 300tdi.

i have owned various landys over the years and never found the brakes much good. i am finding the brakes of little use and not vary effective. there is no air in the system and the fluid was replaced last year.

all pistons are free and all discs/ pads are in good health.

the only thing i can think of is maybe master cylinder foult and if so would i be better fitting a 110 master cylinder or are they both the same???

please can you help as its not vary reasuring when you see a load of brake lights on in front of you and your not slowing down as fast as them.

thanks gavin

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I think I would be checking out the vacuum pump or servo first.

I just had a similar problem on my Disco 3 which turned out to be the servo.

A couple of years ago I lost brake efficiency on my Td5 90 and that was the vac pump.

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The standard brakes work fine when they are in good health. I've got drums on the back and they aren't that bad if they're kept in check.

Following on from the above, it's worth taking the vacuum pipe off the servo and checking the pump is working ok.

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I recently had similar problems, and it was the servo. You can see what effect it has by switching off, pressing the pedal a few times then restarting with your foot firmly on the brake pedal. If it doesn't pull down further, then the power assistance is the problem. If you have a gauge you can measure the suck from the pump, I think about .5 bar is good.

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Look very carefully at the servo. Especially at the frront under the bottom master cylinder mounting. You're looking for a rust mark. That will be a crack. You might also get an assistant to press the pedal while you look at the master cylinder to servo mount. You can see the servo move at the crack when the pedal is pressed.

HTH

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The only other thing is if you have just replaced pads & discs and have to condition the pads? I know with EBC once the brakes have bedded you are supposed to do about 10 slows from 60 to 10mph to condition the pads, and they do get hot. Used to have to do it with Ferodo DS11 too, but I don't expect normal pads need it DS11 would fade to nothing when you were doing that then recover and be right ever after. But the servo has to be prime suspect.

Nigel

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ok peeps il have another look at the servo as i have done the pressure build up test and that was all fine. il keep you all posted.

thanks again for all your advise, i owe you one.

p.s if any of you are from the east riding area and fancy some weekend green laning then give me a shout and il tag along if thats ok.

cheers gavin

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Just to say if they are EBC cross-drilled pads & disks then throw away the pads and get some mintex or forodo or anything else and it will be fine. I too fitted the EBC stuff and followed their bedding in instructions to the letter. After 2000 miles they still felt rubbish, gave no pedal feel and inspired no confidence whatsoever. I could not, under any circumstance, get the wheels to lock, even at 40 mph on our gravel drive. That's how poor they were. Now fitted standard mintex pads and its a million times better and actually slides on the gravel when pressed! And just flown the MOT too.

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yes i almost got the ebc pads but was advised by a lad at paddocks not to bother as he said the same probs as you have plus the dreded squeeling braks aswell.

i fitted the mintex ones.

they are just starting to feel like brakes again after some 100 mls but its been a nerve wracking experiance along the way!!! lol

thanks again for all your help on this matter and hopefully i can return the favour some time.

are any of you good patrons going to the driffield show in may???

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