DC_ Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Firing order etc ?? Yip I can see it Saving all these pages so I can keep studying them. I think going by the info so far, the first thing to do would be the crank pully removal and fit the 36:1 toothed wheel and VR bracket? Megajolt boxes on flee bay are about £190. Would this be about right? MOT is getting done as I type so fingers crossed Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Good luck with MOT- yep i'd go with the crank pulley bit first. Its the only time you are actually going to be properly disabling the car for a time, and its the only messy bit of the entire process. Get that done and you can do the rest at your leisure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 MOT done and passed no bother Nice one !! All those weekends of lying on the ground in the cold pays off again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Megajolt boxes on flee bay are about £190. Would this be about right? Well trigger-wheels.com have them for £117 assembled... But personally I would buy a kit and assemble it myself... But before you buy you need to chose MAP or TPS don't forget! Also - IMHO - it's not worth getting a hard rev limiter since retarding the ignition to 10o BTDC at max revs works pretty well Only other real choice is the trigger-wheel. BTW - how's this for sparks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 That's a great pic so what would make me choose MAP or TPS ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 That's a great pic so what would make me choose MAP or TPS ?? Reading around I guess.. I chose MAP, but can't remember why now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 Something else to have a read on Is there a popular choice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 I'd chose MAP because then the MJ box is pretty much self-contained, with TPS you're subject to the vagaries of the Rover TPS. I'm not sure I'd recommend soldering an ECU together yourself unless you have the gear and are happy soldering surface-mount as I believe MJ ECU's are partly surface-mount components these days. Trigger wheels do indeed have complete kits, I'd say they're about the easiest route at the moment. This may help you with the head-scratching over trigger wheel orientation: And there's the firing order stuff in picture form too: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 The MJ v4 is about 50% surface mount see all the pads without through holes here: All the small components like diodes, resistors, capacitors are surface mounted. The rs232 chip goes straight into the board, and the other two chips are mounted in holders that are through mounted. Not too hard to do though with a fine tipped soldering iron and some decent tweezers. Just dont squeeze the component too hard as if/when you slip off it with the tweezers they do fly across the room quite well... *edit- added second pic for scale purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 Nice one !! Think the only thing I'm not sure on is where to mount the MJ box and electrics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Nice one !! Think the only thing I'm not sure on is where to mount the MJ box and electrics The EDIS stuff (coilpacks and controller) are all very robust and waterproof and can safely be put under the bonnet wherever is convenient (though not near the exhaust headers!). The MJ box, although robust enough for normal cars, should be considered more delicate in an off-roader: It will not like water and should be isolated as far as possible from shake or shock. Mine is on the dashboard but gets a bit hot in direct sunlight so I will be moving it to the headlining when I get a round tuit. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Thanks Roger I'm thinking passenger side bolted under the dash on the RRC. No glove box there and easy to get to if needed. Would need to think more on where he EDIS would be mounted as the LPG takes up some space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 My EDIS mounted nicely between the header tank and the brake pump, there's a flat metal support plate holding the header tank in place, unbolt it a bit, drill a couple of holes and bolt it up -job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 When you've built the MJ, invest in a spray of conformal coating (£5 for a tin from mapilins, RS, etc.) just make sure you don't get it in the MAP sensor or connector. That will seal the board nicely - remember it can get pretty moist in a cold car over the winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Header tank = expansion tank ? If so the space I've got is maybe a bit limited with the abs pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Yup, sorry, I confuse people easily It fits fine: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Here's the view of mine possible it would be better on the other side where there might be more room ? or could get rid of the air con and drier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Header tank = expansion tank ? If so the space I've got is maybe a bit limited with the abs pump. I had my EDIS controller on the old Range Rover mounted there (bolted directly to the top of the inner wing). There was enough room to do it tidily even though the LPG controller and injector isolators were already mounted on the back of the expansion tank bracket and I had ABS/TC. It was convenient for running wiring into the cabin and across the bulkhead to the engine (I ran the VR sensor wire with the others and then down the front of the engine). I'd put it in the same place if I was doing it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 OK, started mine today thought I would post a few bit on how I got on. Mine is a 1997 Serpentine.... Had to notch the timing marker so the sensor bracket would fit Use 40mm M8 Bolts to hold the trigger wheel on, the old bolts were not M8, (maybe UNF?) so I didnt use the back plate with the welded on bolts as the nuts were now wrong for my bolts, just used nylocs. I didnt use any spacers either, not sure if thats good or bad (yet) Put the Edis unit near the brake servo on the inner wing Mounted the coil packs on brackets bolted to the plenum, I sealed the bolts with Tiger Seal to help keep them air tight. Finished job, thats all the messy bits done just got to knock out the wiring tomorrow !! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Looking good. I'd be very scared to bolt the coil packs on the plenum though well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Should be alright as long as its all airtight !!! (well lets hope so anyway !!!) Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Geoffbeaumont bolted the coil packs to his plenum and it seemed to work OK, by a stroke of coincidence I'm actually going to be re-visiting the install on that vehicle as it's now in the lab being given a slight makeover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 My coil packs are fixed to the plenum using two of the vacuum take off points, doesn't see to leak at all, I just used some hylomar round the threads and a copper washer either side of the bracket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 Geoffbeaumont bolted the coil packs to his plenum and it seemed to work OK, by a stroke of coincidence I'm actually going to be re-visiting the install on that vehicle as it's now in the lab being given a slight makeover. Those aren't bolted through the plenum, though. The brackets are slotted at the bottom to fit over the plenum plugs (sounds like Bowie69 did something similar) and have tabs at the top that the plenum bolts go through. Overall I was happy with the design, but the bolt taps are too narrow at the neck and prone to cracking - if I made another I'd grind out the bolt head recesses on the plenum to the full width instead of making the the tabs 'O' shaped, although you might get away with it if using steel not ally. Access to the plugs to tighten them once the bracket is in place is near impossible - if I recall correctly in the end I put lock tight on the threads and backed them off enough to allow the bracket to just slide on, and it's the tabs that hold it down. How is the old girl doing? Did Geoff get it running again? Last I heard it was running very poorly and wouldn't rev over something like 2.5k, even without load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Discovery Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 OK, started mine today thought I would post a few bit on how I got on. Mine is a 1997 Serpentine.... Had to notch the timing marker so the sensor bracket would fit Use 40mm M8 Bolts to hold the trigger wheel on, the old bolts were not M8, (maybe UNF?) so I didnt use the back plate with the welded on bolts as the nuts were now wrong for my bolts, just used nylocs. I didnt use any spacers either, not sure if thats good or bad (yet) Put the Edis unit near the brake servo on the inner wing Mounted the coil packs on brackets bolted to the plenum, I sealed the bolts with Tiger Seal to help keep them air tight. Finished job, thats all the messy bits done just got to knock out the wiring tomorrow !! Andy Any updates is the system working fine .i just bought the kit and waiting for delivery . did you count 5 teeth btdc when you installed the trigger wheel ? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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