white90 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 300TDi is very similar as are 90/110/Defenders with either engine, so this thread can be used as a reference. The cowl, viscous fan, top intercooler hose, etc, are removed, but this isn't strictly necessary. Water pump spanner is needed to remove the viscous fan. Place the spanner on the viscous nut and sharply whack it with a hammer in a clockwise direction. unscrew the fan and remove it. Remove both the top radiator hose and top intercooler hose (should be 6mm socket or screwdriver) 2 x 8mm nuts on studs that secure the cowling to the top of radiator frame. They have a habit of corroding or shearing off, so be careful when removing them. Remove the cowling, then undo the 4 x 13mm bolts that hold the top frame on and remove it.. Detach the bypass hose and tuck it out of the way. The two oil cooler pipes are clamped together, so have to be removed together. There'll be some oil loss from the radiator, so put a wad of rag under the leff side of the bottom hose, undo both pipes, and lift them up and out of the way. If the threaded stub in the radiator starts to undo, then a second spanner to keep it still. Bottom radiator hose next - 6mm socket or screwdriver. The left side frame support has to be released in order for the radiator to be lifted out. 13mm nut and bolt removed and the side of the frame can then move away. The radiator can now be lifted out - this one wasn't leaking, but core deterioration was making the engine run too hot. The bottom frame section will be full of dirt/rusty, so clean it up, make sure the radiator seating rubbers are in good order - lightly grease them prior to fitting the new radiator. Put the new radiator in place - making sure it locates in the bottom correctly. Attach bottom hose, both oil cooler pipes, bypass hose, etc, etc. Refill system with minimum 40% antifreeze, top up the oil if necessary, then start the engine and check for leaks. Les. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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