Gilmore Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Hi all Thanx for all the usefull info on this site but have some questions in regard to some answers I cant seem to find. I am replacing my Zenith with a Weber but no where I can find a step by step guide like some topicks in the technical archive. I was wondering if there is any special tricks to it or if its a simple bolt and pipes off and back on again. I have the adaptor plate and as far as I know that is the only extra I need. Then another one. What is the procedure with setting up a Weber, single port and twin stage choke, without the specialist tools? My Zenith was easy enough, turn down the mixture screw till the engin dies and then a full turn back. Dont know if that was right but it seemed to work and thats the way it gets done in Namibia in the desert hehehe. Then the last one.... For now!! I am a new Land Rover owner. Just recently bought a 1973 series 3 88 with the 2.25 motor. The question I have is in regard to the front wheel locks. Is the standert issue the one where you turn the two arrows so they face towards each other to lock the wheel? I cant seem to find any picks on the net from any other Landys like mine with the same setup. I am replacing the brake cylinders and the brake shoes and was wondering if they are standerd through the series models like I have? Regards Gilmore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 The front wheel cylinders depend on the age of the vehicle and whether or not earlier brakes have been upgraded to the later ones. If you have one cylinder per wheel it is the earlier single leading shoe system (1LS) and is the same part through SII, IIa and III - don't know about SI. They look the same as the rears, but they are slightly larger diameter bore. The shoes ate the same front & rear. The twin cylinder brakes, twin leading shoe (2LS), are the same through SII, IIa and III 109 in wheelbase and later SIII swb. The shoes are 11" instead of 10". A pic of your freewheeling hubs would be useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilmore Posted April 17, 2010 Author Share Posted April 17, 2010 Thank you for the promp reply. Here is an attached photo of the hubb. Sorry for the quality but I am on an oil rigg in Angola so its all I have unfortunately. Hope this helps. Any help on the Weber carb question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the real muddy90 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 The freewheel hubs normaly have '2' or 4x2 & '4' or 4x4?? The webber should be a straight swap. I found an article on the net for setting up a webber mixter, I think I googled 'webber 34ich mixture setting' & found a very helpfull site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilmore Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 The freewheel hubs normaly have '2' or 4x2 & '4' or 4x4?? Hi muddy90 Thanx for the info on the carb, will finally be home on Thursday back from Angola and will do a proper search (most of the stuff I try finding here on the net is blocked from the server). What is it you mean by your hub question? I am totally new to Land Rovers and would like to get to know my vehicle inside out. All I know of my hubs up to now is that there is two screw mechanisims opposit each other on each hub and they have arrows facing away from each other when disengaged and to engage them you turn each 180 degrees and have the arrows pointing towards each other. Hit the yellow knob and 4x4 is ingaged. The ones I am used to on a 4x4 is the single unit that you turn and it points to lock or unlock on the hub. Are there any known problems with the hubs I have, except for leaking oil, or are they robust and take the punch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 The free wheel hubs disengage drive from the front axle by disconnecting the the driveshaft inside the hub. If the the FWH's are disengaged, then it'll make no difference to the drivetrain whether you have it in 4wd or low range. Until you engage the FWH's you will have no drive to the front wheels at all, so always rear wheel drive only. FWH's were fitted as a fuel/component wear saving issue, but in my opinion they are a bit of a pain - having to engage/disengage every time you want to change the surface you are going to drive on. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Some of my old friends who are far far far better drivers than me would play the game of seeing how far they could drive off road before getting out to lock the hubs. This is great as you cannot cheat. Once when I got stuck in sand trying to rescue a Lightweight LR, my mate in the LR that mine was copied from, drove past both me and the lightweight then got out and locked his hubs! Ever so humble. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilmore Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 I keep mine in 2WD most of the time as well with tire prassure on 0.8bar to see the potential and how far I can get but a few times I almost got into trouble. Driving in the desert and on the beach you are on hard sand and the next moment flat on the belly. To engage the hubs I need to back it up or go forward from time to time and being almost stuck there isnt much room to manouvre!!! Thankfully up to now the couple of mm movement I got out was enough to get the job done. I am well impressed with my Land Rover and its the best money I ever spend and the most fun I have had in a long time. I read somewhere on a forum that with the series 3 older models like mine I need to run it as much as possible with the hubs engaged, the reason being that some parts in the front axle gets lublicated or somewhere in that line. What is the story behind that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 If the hubs are disengaged, the UJs aren't spinning in the swivels so the steering top swivel pin bush doesn't get any splash lubrication. So it's life could be shortened. I removed the FWHs on mine, I don't need the fuel saving aspect (and I question how much it actually makes up for anyhow) and they're just another thing to break or have to engage/disengage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the real muddy90 Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 The freewheel hubs normaly have '2' or 4x2 & '4' or 4x4?? Hi muddy90 Thanx for the info on the carb, will finally be home on Thursday back from Angola and will do a proper search (most of the stuff I try finding here on the net is blocked from the server). What is it you mean by your hub question? I am totally new to Land Rovers and would like to get to know my vehicle inside out. All I know of my hubs up to now is that there is two screw mechanisims opposit each other on each hub and they have arrows facing away from each other when disengaged and to engage them you turn each 180 degrees and have the arrows pointing towards each other. Hit the yellow knob and 4x4 is ingaged. The ones I am used to on a 4x4 is the single unit that you turn and it points to lock or unlock on the hub. Are there any known problems with the hubs I have, except for leaking oil, or are they robust and take the punch? They sound a bit unfamiliar mate, can't say i've come across anything like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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