Mark90 Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Which way does the oil flow in/out of a ZF auto box, connections on the bottom and n/s. I just want to make sure I have it right before I plumb in my oil cooler and temp guage. I don't want to be measuring the temp just before it goes back into the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 on the box there are two connections, one on top and one on the bottom of the box. oil flows out of the box on the connection that is on top into the box on the bottom connections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 9, 2006 Author Share Posted May 9, 2006 Thanks. Mine has one centrally at the bottom and one on the near side which is I suppose towards the top. I was guessing it flowed into the bottom connection, just after confirmation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MogLite Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 on the box there are two connections, one on top and one on the bottom of the box. oil flows out of the box on the connection that is on top into the box on the bottom connections I always thought it flowed in different directions, depending what gear you are in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 I always thought it flowed in different directions, depending what gear you are in. Yes, flow reverses when fourth is selected. Not a problem to the oil cooler, but doesn't help with temperature gauge. Where abouts on the case does the transmission over temperature sensor fit? That would be the best place to pick up for the temperature gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I'm going to be putting a temperature gauge in the sump. As that's where the oil is being drawn from I think its where you want to take the temperature reading. Its also pretty simple to fit a sender there; remove sump, weld a small peice of 5mm plate to it, drill and tap to take sender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I'm going to be putting a temperature gauge in the sump. As that's where the oil is being drawn from I think its where you want to take the temperature reading. Its also pretty simple to fit a sender there; remove sump, weld a small peice of 5mm plate to it, drill and tap to take sender. I did the same as what Will is proposing to do. I used 10mm plate as the sender unit is brass and a very soft thread, also allowed me to angle the plate Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I always thought it flowed in different directions, depending what gear you are in. i think it changes direction as soon as the torque converter locks up. at least my oil temp always falls rapidly as soon as that happens, have the sensor in the pipe where the oil flows out of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 I wouldn't be too concerned about having the guage in line in the pipe if flow only reverses when the T/C lock ups, but not if it reverses when in 4th. Anyone know what thread the standard temp sensor is? And where it's located, I've not noticed one on my box. Or if it come to it I'll look at braising a boss on to the sump to take the guage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I wouldn't be too concerned about having the guage in line in the pipe if flow only reverses when the T/C lock ups, but not if it reverses when in 4th.Anyone know what thread the standard temp sensor is? And where it's located, I've not noticed one on my box. Or if it come to it I'll look at braising a boss on to the sump to take the guage. the standard oil temp switch on the 3.9 is located on the pipe that leads to bottom connection of the cooler integrated trans oil cooler (right hand side when looking from front) can't remember threat side is but i was able to get a vdo temp sensor that fit. on the 3.5 the tempswitch is lokated in the right hand side of the tube like cooler inf ront of the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Ah right, not on the actual box, that explain why I've not noticed one on my 3.5 box I'm not using the standard bog brush cooler, have a 34 row mocal type cooler, so sump option is looking like the way to go. More work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tufty Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 Which way does the oil flow in/out of a ZF auto box, connections on the bottom and n/s.I just want to make sure I have it right before I plumb in my oil cooler and temp guage. I don't want to be measuring the temp just before it goes back into the box No real use to you, but mine flowed out of the box via the pipe that entered the oil cooler on the passenger side, then out through the split in the aforementioned pipe, and all over the road and my engine bay. I lost power steering and charging due to slipping belts, and drive. Stopped at the bottom of the hill, then lost my gearbox 'cos the stupid agency man made me drive it onto his tilt/slide rather than bothering to use his winch - with a tired, pregnant wife sitting in the Rangie at 2am I didn't argue. So check the condition of your oil cooler pipes regularly! Here endeth the tale of woe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Well I'm using this hose on these fittings, so by carrying a couple of meters of hose I can replace them on site in about 10mins, well that's the theory anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Well I'm using this hose on these fittings, so by carrying a couple of meters of hose I can replace them on site in about 10mins, well that's the theory anyway Mark, those sort of fittings and are OK but I personally don't trust them. Also, I've found that sort of hosing is a bit light duty for an off road vehilce; the braided stuff is a little harder wearing. I use aviation spec lines with crimp on connections on my gearbox. They cost a little bit (about £120) but the quality is unbelieveable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 I'm going to be putting a temperature gauge in the sump. As that's where the oil is being drawn from I think its where you want to take the temperature reading. Its also pretty simple to fit a sender there; remove sump, weld a small peice of 5mm plate to it, drill and tap to take sender. No No I mustn't its tempting but I mustn't...... Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 u better buy alot of oil Will cos its bound to leak, not unless u can squeeze the pigeon a bit harder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 "Forum Telepathy" at its Finest Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 Mark, those sort of fittings and are OK but I personally don't trust them. Also, I've found that sort of hosing is a bit light duty for an off road vehilce; the braided stuff is a little harder wearing. I use aviation spec lines with crimp on connections on my gearbox. They cost a little bit (about £120) but the quality is unbelieveable. Yeh I looked at various options, including braided hose with crimped or reusable Earls type connections, but my cheque book wasn't up to the job I too am a little sceptical about the connections I have used, but thought I'd give them a try due to reasonable cost and ease of making the pipes to the right length myself on the vehicle. I can not pull the pipe off the connector no matter how hard I try, it has to be cut off. I will see how they go but may fit jubilie clips if I think it's necessary. The hose seems at least as robust as any normal rubber oil hose, if not as bling as braided B) and will be sleeved with to prevent rubbing where it contacts metal stuff. Am seeing someone about braising a boss into the sump for the temp guage. It will be on the front vertical face of the sump just under/behind the bellhousing. As this is just above/in front of the crossmember I can put a guard on the crossmember if it looks like it might be vulnerable, but it's about as tucked up out of the way a sit can be on the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 "Forum Telepathy" at its Finest Nige D'oh, and there's me thinking you thought a 5mm plate wouldn't be man enough for the job Nige. My coat? Why thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 A mate of mine uses that on his hybrid's fuel system, I remember him mentioning the unbelievably high rating for a push-on hose and commenting that he couldn't get it apart without cutting it. Been on there a few years now and I don't think he's had any problems. It's down to some cunning construction in the hose wall that makes it grip the connector under pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 I like the fact that if the hose gets damaged it can be replaced on site in about 10mins with only a knife required, and 2m of spare hose to carry is only about a tenner. I'm sure it 'does what is says on the tin' but till I use it and get some confidence in it purely push on conections just doesn't seem right, so I'll be keeping some jubilie clips to hand just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Not sure if its of help but I just used Gates hose - a bog brush cooler at the front and B&C with thermo fan on the back (plumbed in series), the hose has a service life of 7 years on plant machinery and its £2 a metre, The gearbox to hose connections were from Think automotive, the cooler circuit is only running at 1bar so dont get stressed about connections being overloaded - I never had a jubilee pop on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 No No I mustn't its tempting but I mustn't......Nige Nige, I have some VERY incriminating photos which I may have to pull out. I'll give you a clue: How does a Nyloc nut lock? OMG I'm in soooooooooooooooooooo much trouble. Running for cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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