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Diff Pegging


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Well I am currently out of job so I have all the time in the world, but little money.

I have long been wanting to do a diff pegging myself, but couldn't find the time.

now I have!

And so keeping in the spirit that I like about only using LR parts I did just that!

The only things that didn't come off of a landy was the bolts and the extra metal added.

Tell me if you can spot what i used for thrust plate? :P

Anyways I have another idea on how to keep the pinion in constant contact to the crownwheel. It is only on the drawing board at this point but I might try to put it in metal.. If so I will post it here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

That looks like a nice bit of engineering!

I wouldn't worry too much whether it is made of brass or bronze - it is only in contact with the crownwheel when the wheel flexes. Even though the loading is high, it's quite brief.

I did the same thing with glass filled Nylon - and it seemed to last OK, so Brass will be fine.

Si

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Si I thought about nylon aswell, so interesting to hear that somebody has tried it!

But the problem, I figured, would be that brass or bronze "lubricates" while in contact with the crownwheel. Where as nylon may not have that ability. But maybe it doesn't matter that much. I just figured that the stress on the bolts holding the nylon would be immense.

What are your experience on this Si?

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Hi Soren

On my first attempts I did not use anything but a bolt with a very very little radius at the end and it also work and you where

not in doubt that it worked one could hear it but as others have mentioned it is so short time it touches so no prob.

Regards

Ole

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What are your experience on this Si?

I just had a pair of bolts which engaged in blind holes in a Nylon pad. Since the diff is full of oil anyway, it probably doesn't matter whether the material is self lubricating or not.

Also, then the force is maximised on the crownwheel, it is generally stationary or moving slowly - so the lubrication matters even less. Glass filled Nylon is actually pretty good for bushes and bearings, even with high radial loads. The drum end on an 8274 is a good example of this.

Si

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Er.....I can tell you from personal experience that brass is not fine for this application!

When I first pegged my front diff I used a lump of brass cos it was what I had available. After a very short time I changed the oil to check it and it came out a lovelly golden metallic colour! When i pulled the diff to check it I found the brass pad was already severely worn. I think this was after about 100 miles.

I re-made it out of proper phosphor bronze and have had no further problems. The pads do not wear noticeably when made from this.

Jon

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Can I play :rolleyes:

'Lightweight' Jig made - as I seem to have destroyed my pegged diff when the axle went pop

....so have made a jig to do my new one / or some more in the future :)

Nice work Soren, having done the Jiggy I know how tricky it is the get the positioning spot on

Looking at your pics it looks as if its been migged rather than Tigged with dissimilar rods ?

I have also if you look close Milled the strengthening plate area flat to make for a better

finish when the shaped drilled / tapped plate is welded on there will be about 16mm thick :)

2 x 12.9 ton allen studs are upped to M16

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No metal thinner than 12mm was harmed in making of this Jig :)

Nige

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You need a hard bush in there Nige :ph34r:

...I have some 50mm hardox offcuts if you need to beef it up :)

..new moon on fri so take no notice of me :rolleyes:

looks good fella , are you using phosphor-bronze forr your slip pads ?

;)

Steveb

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Hi Nige. Nice Jig, should make it much easier yes.

You're right I mig'ed it, and have used mig before on diff housings with succes. I know it is by no means perfect, but so far it has held up just fine.

The funny thing is, that there is actually quite some difference in the shape on defender diff housing and an old series. Having both laying around I compared it, and saw that it is def easier to do on a defender housing.

The space with the large CRW is indeed very limited, but it can be done quite nicely. My thought on the quality of the slipper pad is that there must be much difference in how much tolerance people run. If it is slightly in contact all the time, it will of course wear rapidly.

I was hoping to be able to fit a roller bearing instead as this could be adjusted to a constant preload. But to have the room for this installment would require serious amounts of fabbing on the diffhousing. Furthermore I am beginning to wonder if one could "peg" the bearing caps aswell, just like ashcroft has done on their new 9"/rover combo. Otherwise you could make a new diffpan that was more rigid, and then feed bolts through that and via guide tubes into the bearing caps. Again preventing deflection.

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The brass pad wore quickly even though the pad was correctly adjusted. Its nothing to do with adjustment - its just the wrong sort of material!!

Bear in mind there is nothing to hold the slipper pad off the ring gear!

There is a reason things like spigot bushes are made from phosphor bronze and not brass!

Jon

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