I'm new!

[BillyH]

Hello! I've just bought a Defender 90 (2005) and I'm in the process of updating it.

Excuse my ignorance, but I am keen to save a bit of money where I can and I was wondering if it's possible to DIY a wading kit out of pipe from say an aquatic store etc??

I was thinking that the current breathing pipes could just be extended by using a pipe connector (the plastic ones you get for fish tanks) all the way up to the engine bay/snorkel.

I hope this makes sense!

Cheers!

[western]

the main gearbox/transfer box & front axle breathers should be at the back of the cylinder head already, look for 3 black nylon pipes with a U bend in the top, the rear axle breather can be extended from the left A frame arm to either the engine bay so it sits with the other 3 or up into the left rear corner of the body via the grommet the rear lights wiring passes through. I don't know the connectors your thinking of, but they sound like they would do the job.

[BillyH]

the main gearbox/transfer box & front axle breathers should be at the back of the cylinder head already, look for 3 black nylon pipes with a U bend in the top, the rear axle breather can be extended from the left A frame arm to either the engine bay so it sits with the other 3 or up into the left rear corner of the body via the grommet the rear lights wiring passes through. I don't know the connectors your thinking of, but they sound like they would do the job.

Thanks. The tubes look something like this

However there are a few varieties which look like they'll not come loose as easily.

I saw the U bend for the front and rear axle, but I didn't see one for the gearbox... Does that one end up in the engine bay too?

[western]

I saw the U bend for the front and rear axle, but I didn't see one for the gearbox... Does that one end up in the engine bay too?

worth a try with those or similar fittings,

all 3 should be in the area mentioned above, one maybe a bit lower.

[Retroanaconda]

If you're thinking of airline hose from an aquarium store, then it's usually 6mm OD x 4mm ID. The push-fit pipe generally used for breathers is the same, but is much more rigid.

Try your local hydraulic fittings place, the breather holes in your axles are tapped for 1/8" BSP. I simply got some 90 degree push-fit connectors and a couple of feet of the nylon pipe and away I went

Routed them up to the top of the engine bay as Western described, if I'm that deep there will be other things to worry about!

[FridgeFreezer]

I second the industrial push-fit nylon, bit sturdier than aquarium stuff and you can get nice swivelling 90 degree fittings in stainless steel for not very many pennies.

Here's one I stuck into my bellhousing, had to drill & tap but it keeps water out nicely.

[BillyH]

All done

The front axle and gearbox pipes were already in the engine bay. I've not added a snorkel, as I'm not planning on taking it that deep.

I brought the rear one to the engine bay to put them all together.

My worry is that I've forgotten to do anything else...! Anyone advise me? As I seriously don't want to make a schoolboy error!

[Retroanaconda]

If no snorkel then you won't be going deeper than the official wading depth (500mm). So shouldn't need to do anything else.

In theory the standard breathers should be above that height, but having them in the engine bay is much better as they inevitably clog with dirt!

[Guest]

I have John Guest push fit ends on mine, and use beer line from my brewery, I did have them extended up the snorkel but someone stole the pipe so just fit the pipe in seconds if going wading.

Jason.

[BillyH]

If no snorkel then you won't be going deeper than the official wading depth (500mm). So shouldn't need to do anything else.

In theory the standard breathers should be above that height, but having them in the engine bay is much better as they inevitably clog with dirt!

Is the wading depth that shallow? I have been deeper than that, I think...!

From what I learnt, as long as I keep up with the wave that the car pushes out, I can get away with going a bit deeper in water.

I know this may sound silly and I will probably get laughed at, but is there a good way to waterproof a door, just in case the water comes up a bit high, but not for an extended period of time? I was out earlier and it got a bit close to coming in the door, but I was wondering if the door has a little bit of water resistance to stop a 10 second run through a ford

Thanks for all your advice

[FridgeFreezer]

Trying to waterproof LR bodywork is like herding cats, just forget about it and worry about something else.

The wading depth is 500mm precisely because people don't know about wading plugs, breathers, air intakes, how to drive through water, etc. - I've seen trucks go windscreen deep with no snorkel and survive, but it's russian roulette with an expensive repair bill if something goes wrong.

How much to worry about breathers depends what you're doing, for normal use what you've got is fine. For harder off-road use you can go a bit more belt and braces - raise things up a bit higher, add a breather to the timing cover, bellhousing, PAS reservoir, etc. etc.

[alantd]

You're fine, honestly.

If you've not got a snorkel then you'll only be going in to a certain depth anyway (which can be more that 500mm with decent technique). That's sensible too - unless you want to go swimming at a P&P site, you shouldn't be chancing rivers and tides above that height anyway.

You've extended your breathers, which is a bonus. The original placements would have worked but you now have contingency