300 tdi engine removal tricks

[ian_s]

i've recently aquired another discovery, a 300 tdi manual. the previous owner was planning on scrapping it, but the bodywork/chassis/running gear is far too good for that to happen.

it has almost no compression on several cylinders, so i'm planning on getting another complete 300tdi and dropping that in.

does anyone have any tips on getting the engine out?

getting to the top bellhousing bolts looks to be a bit of a pig, and i'm torn between lifting the engine/gearbox out together, and trying to undo the awkward bolts.

is there an easy way to get to these bolts? the rave manual i have pretty much just says "undo the bolts".

also, anyone got a 300tdi engine going spare....?

thanks

Ian

[Les Henson]

The top bolts really need a very long extension bar to get at from the rear of the box (angled off to the left or ight, so a U/J behind the socket is needed). They also have a real nasty habit of rounding-off, so be careful. If you are leaving the rad/intercooler assembly in place, then protect the inner face of it with a sheet of ply or similar. The engine may suddenly let go and come forward with some force and may belt it.

Les.

[pwam2006]

As Les said, though I manage to do it without the 'wobble' drive. Also, sounds silly, but I've found using the hexagonal sockets, rather than the star (lots of teeth) type means that you're less likely to round them off (though the negative of having less positions to be able to put the socket on can get annoying when theres 4 ft of extenders on the back!)

good luck

[sutty_32]

I got most of mine off, nearly rounded one off and had a right mission. I would suggest taking the rad/intercooler out as its not much effort.

I also found it handy to have a pwam2006 on hand to get the bell housing nut I couldn't get too I'd highly recommend having one stored in the garage for emergency use

[fozsug]

I find it easier to take the engine and gearbox out together, but it depends if youve got access to a fork lift as you need to lift it high

[ian_s]

thanks guys

i was planning on getting my spanner-monkeybrother to take to the rad and IC out, and between us we have about 6feet of extension bars in various sizes

so there is no need to drop the rear of the gearbox down? thats good, makes things quicker.

pwam2006: i know what you mean with the 6 sided sockets, they can be a godsend when you have a slightly rounded nut. i have a set of these

i'm thinking it'll be a lot easier to do with one pair of hands guiding the socket, and another under the car working the ratchet?

thanks again

Ian

[steve b]

Taking the engine mounting rubbers off and lowering the engine onto the chassis brackets should give enough space to access the upper bolts from the engine bay. If the Head is off that helps too. ....No compression would poss indicate a blown HG or cracked head?

hth

Steveb

[ian_s]

i think it was pressurising the crank case a lot, and the previous owner was told the piston rings have gone.

i'll probably take the engine apart once it's out to see what the damage is, if it's saveable it might make the basis for a future project i have in mind

[dooroy]

Had the engine out of a 96 300 Tdi 2 yrs ago and would go along with the above -

* Dropping the engine having removed the mountings does improve access to top bolts in ring but I think I removed them by using extensions so that ratchet was far enough back to get some range of movement .

* Would advise removing rad as it gives a lot more space for forward movement without possibility of damage.

* Also found that removing oil filter helped - tended to get caught in steering box when engine was lowered making

forward movement difficult .

And you do need to lift it quite a bit to get it out over wing or front - and body rises a bit as engine weight comes off it .I had to remove front wheel and let wheel hub almost to the floor to get enough clearance.