Light switches: where can I buy these online?

[Naks]

Hi all

I need a couple of these switches, anyone know where I can find them online?

thanks!

[PaulMc]

Hi all

I need a couple of these switches, anyone know where I can find them online?

thanks!

Rimmer Brothers

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YUG000540LNF

LR Series

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/13578/YUG000540LNF-FRONT-FOG-SWITCH.html

Also, the correct connector for these switches can be bought from here -

http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Electrical_Miscellany.html#aZZPLUG01

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[Naks]

Rimmer Brothers

Also, the correct connector for these switches can be bought from here

Thanks Paul!

What does the connector do!?

[PaulMc]

Thanks Paul!

What does the connector do!?

It's the electrical connector (shell and terminals) that plugs into the back of the switch to connect it to the loom.

There are four different coloured connector shells, each with different keyways, to stop inadvertant mis-connection between different switches.

The Defender Front Auxiliary Light Switch, YUG000540LNF, uses the Black connector shell.

If you're using the switches for accessories, are you aware that YUG000540LNF is not a conventional on/off switch?

It's designed to switch an earth path, which means that if you want the Green back illumination and Orange tell-tale LEDs to work, then you have to use it as designed.

It's no great hardship to use it to switch the earth path, it just means that you have to take a wire from the accessory output side of your relay (terminal 87) back to terminal 5 on the switch to light the tell-tale Orange LED.

Here's my diagram of how YUG000540LNF should be wired for auxiliary lamps -

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[Naks]

It's the electrical connector (shell and terminals) that plugs into the back of the switch to connect it to the loom. There are four different coloured connector shells, each with different keyways, to stop inadvertant mis-connection between different switches, the Defender Front Auxiliary Light Switch, YUG000540LNF, uses the Black connector shell.

If you're using the switches for accessories, are you aware that YUG000540LNF is not a conventional on/off switch?

It's designed to switch an earth path, which means that if you want the Green back illumination and Orange tell-tale LEDs to work, then you have to use it as designed. It's no great hardship to use it to switch the earth path, it just means that you have to take a wire from the accessory output side of your relay (terminal 87) back to terminal 5 on the switch to light the tell-tale Orange LED.

Yep, I know it's a latching switch. As for the rest, I'll just nod & smile & pretend I understand

Am I correct in assuming that I will need 2 connectors for 2 switches(one for spots, one for rear worklamp)?

[PaulMc]

Yep, I know it's a latching switch. As for the rest, I'll just nod & smile & pretend I understand

Am I correct in assuming that I will need 2 connectors for 2 switches(one for spots, one for rear worklamp)?

Yes, you'll need 2 connectors, one for each switch.

If you wire your spot lights as per the diagram above, the switch will illuminate with the rest of your switches when you turn on your sidelights and the Orange tell-tale LED on the switch will illuminate when you switch on your spot lights with main beam.

The only difference for a work lamp, is that you don't need to take the feed for terminal 86 on the relay from the main beam.

You should take this from a permanent live if you want to use your work light with the engine turned off, or from an ignition switched live if you want to use your work light only with the engine switched on.

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[martifers]

It's the electrical connector (shell and terminals) that plugs into the back of the switch to connect it to the loom.

There are four different coloured connector shells, each with different keyways, to stop inadvertant mis-connection between different switches.

The Defender Front Auxiliary Light Switch, YUG000540LNF, uses the Black connector shell.

If you're using the switches for accessories, are you aware that YUG000540LNF is not a conventional on/off switch?

It's designed to switch an earth path, which means that if you want the Green back illumination and Orange tell-tale LEDs to work, then you have to use it as designed.

It's no great hardship to use it to switch the earth path, it just means that you have to take a wire from the accessory output side of your relay (terminal 87) back to terminal 5 on the switch to light the tell-tale Orange LED.

Here's my diagram of how YUG000540LNF should be wired for auxiliary lamps -

.

Most useful!! Cheers Paul

[PaulMc]

Most useful!! Cheers Paul

My pleasure

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[Maverik]

Hi, just to clarify, its a standard 30Amp relay you have there? I must have miss understood something in another post that refered to a needing a latching relay.

As you have mentioned previously some switches stay depressed when activeated e.g. hazzard switch then others just pop up to the same level after being activated - these are the ones we're talking about, so does the switch do the "latching"? the illustation above doesn't really show that it does the latching, it more looks to me like a push to make switch that would need a "latch" further down the circuit?

Cheers

Mav

[PaulMc]

Hi, just to clarify, its a standard 30Amp relay you have there? I must have miss understood something in another post that refered to a needing a latching relay.

As you have mentioned previously some switches stay depressed when activeated e.g. hazzard switch then others just pop up to the same level after being activated - these are the ones we're talking about, so does the switch do the "latching"? the illustation above doesn't really show that it does the latching, it more looks to me like a push to make switch that would need a "latch" further down the circuit?

Cheers

Mav

It's a standard 30Amp Relay.

The switch (YUG000540LNF) is a latching switch (the button stays 'down' when pressed and 'pops-up' when pressed again), it's just unusual in that it switches the earth path, rather than the live.

The internal design of the switch and the fact that it uses LEDs for it's backlight and tell-tale illumination, means that it has to be used as designed for these to work correctly.

Although, it is fairly easy to modify it's internals, so that it becomes a 'traditional' live switching on-off switch, with the LEDs working correctly.

I have already posted how to do this on other forums (and probably, on here as well) but I can post it again, if anyone wants?

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