geoffbeaumont Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 Anyone got any genius foolproof methods for removing the drag link and track rod ball joints? Top drag link ball joint just unscrewed by hand, but the bottom one is putting up a fight (and this is the one that really needs replacing - I'm fairly sure it's full of water not grease...). I've tried heat (lots of), WD-40, hammer, vice... I think the real problem is that I can't get enough force on it. How can I get a good enough grip on the drag link? The ball joint a can put in vice (although it's twisting the workbench...think I need a big bolt down vice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 clamp the rod in a vice, preferably a pipe vice so you don't crush it, then get a pair of stillsons on the actual ball joint, a realy big pair works best. you can then slip a length of tube over the handle of the stillsons to get more leverage. if you do it the other way around (and hold the ball joint in the vice) the gripping action of the stillsons will crush the tube. go carefull with the gas torch, heating it to much with effectively 'heat treat' the metal and change its mechanical properties... if it realy is stuck that badly, you will have probably damaged the tube by the time you remove it. (hence why i'm picking up a replacement tube from a fellow forum member on thursday, so if mine is like yours, i'm not stck at home with no car) if you do get it apart, i found that pouring a generous amount of engine oil into it, after you've fitted the first 'end' will stop it siezing again, as the oil is always trying to escape along the threads, and stops the water getting in. when doing my old defender, the stillsons did the job though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I find that hammering the ends of the tube, there the threads are stuck, helps free them off. After that try heat followed by oil - this should allow the oil to penetrate the threads, almost drawing the oil in. Leave it to stand overnight with plenty of oil on. As Matt says, a pipe vice is the tool for the job as far as gripping the pipe is concerned. I always apply plenty of copper slip before reassembly. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted May 13, 2006 Author Share Posted May 13, 2006 Cheers. Sounds like I'm doing everything right, just with the wrong tools... The track rod is the same story - one end came out fairly easily, the other isn't budging (and neither's the tracking joint). I've left them sat in a tub of old engine oil (there's WD-40 inside the drop link, too - track rod is still sealed at both ends), and I'm going to take them round to a mate who has a much more solid vice than me. Can't get my hands on a pipe vice, unfortunately. Had a good look at the leaking ball joint while I was under there, too - it is pitted, so it looks like the garage refitted it when it should have been replaced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted May 13, 2006 Share Posted May 13, 2006 I did mine once with a pair of mole grips (locking pliers) attached REALLY tight to the track rod so that as the track rod turned they jammed against some part or other of the vehicle. I then put the LR jack handle (both lengths together ) and strained on that!! The alternative is binning the standard track rod and getting a Sumo bar....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted May 14, 2006 Author Share Posted May 14, 2006 Well, it's done... I left the seized ball joints in a tub of old engine oil overnight (not ideal, bit too viscous, but the only thing I had enough of), then applied a large friend to them... Seriously - as well as having a much bigger vice than me, he also weighs five stone more. Took him bouncing his whole weight on the stillsons while we applied plenty of heat. Found we had to but the ball joint in the vice and use the stillsons on the bar - not ideal, but aside from a lot of tooth marks we seem to have got away with it. Followed freeagents advice and stuck some engine oil inside the bars, so hopefully they won't be such a git to shift in future. Just got to get the tracking done now - did it as best I could by measuring between the rims, but I can feel it's not right (didn't really expect it would be) so I'll get someone with the right kit to do that tomorrow. The alternative is binning the standard track rod and getting a Sumo bar....... I think I've been spending too much on it recently as it is, thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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