Jump to content

110 TD5 - Rear Cross Member Options


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Having just purchased a Defender 110 1999 TD5, there are a few areas on the vehicle that require attention. One of these areas is the rear cross member and although it seems as though most of the cross member is sound, there are a few areas which are not.

I have been along the length of the cross member and have knocked with a handle of a screwdriver and the main areas that sound as though I am tapping a tin can in areas are to the outside of the jacking points on the cross member, the O/S being the worse (as can be seen in the photos)

The question I have is what do I do about it?

post-23392-127331318691_thumb.jpg post-23392-127331319812_thumb.jpg post-23392-127331415968_thumb.jpg

  1. Cut out the rot and weld in a new piece of 3mm sheet or weld a patch over the top?
  2. Replace the whole rear cross member, I have seen a company selling genuine TD5 cross members (without extensions) for £95, although it is mentioned that these are for a TD5 2002 and on model, but these can be adapted to fit.
  3. Replace the whole cross member with a new pattern part with the extensions... are the horror stories about these true on the most part or is it the case where you only hear about the bad ones?

Has anyone else on here come up with this challenge in the past?

I know that it’s impossible to give an accurate opinion without looking at the vehicle, but any points of view would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it were me I'd cut out the bad areas and let in new metal. If the rest of it is sound that is. No point fixing it only to have more holes in a years time.

The steel isn't 3mm, more like 1.5-2mm from memory.

Have a look in the tech archives for replacement procedure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it were me I'd cut out the bad areas and let in new metal. If the rest of it is sound that is. No point fixing it only to have more holes in a years time.

The steel isn't 3mm, more like 1.5-2mm from memory.

Have a look in the tech archives for replacement procedure.

Thanks for your reply. I have seen the replacement procedure in the tech archive, but I was more wondering whats more involved - replacing the cross member with extensions or without. I wonder why LR make a replacement cross member only without extensions.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Land Rover don't make repair sections as such. That's why a genuine cross member is just that!

Invariably when you remove the old cross member the first 8" of the chassis will be rotten too. Also there are a few extra brackets and strengtheners required if you just want to replace the cross member. I'm not sure if they are available as seperate parts.

I would say it would be easier to replace one with the extensions. Less joints and welding required and easier to remove the old one.

I used a genuine cross member and had to make my own chassis extensions and gussets. I never do things the easy way.......

post-2781-127343905905_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy