Winch question

[Peter]

Am sure its been covered loads of time but, I broke another winch today - 2nd time using this one.

It will winch out, but not in. Would this just be a failed solenoid, there was a bit of grunching noise before it gave up. So could it be mechanical.

A bit gutted as thought the Come-up winch would be better than the 2 previous T-max winches I've broken - one of those was the casing, the other the brake.

Would appreciate some moral support, as am almost at the point of selling the LR and taking up golf !!

[bishbosh]

Need a bit more info on the "noise" just before it packed up.

What happens when you try to winch in?

Does the motor turn but not the drum?

Does the motor try to turn and make horrible noises?

Do you get a click from the solenoid pack and nothing else?

[white90]

where are all the supporters of these carp fine winches when you need them

flog it on ebay and get a Warn/Superwinch

Harsh but True

[Peter]

Need a bit more info on the "noise" just before it packed up.

What happens when you try to winch in?

Does the motor turn but not the drum?

Does the motor try to turn and make horrible noises?

Do you get a click from the solenoid pack and nothing else?

White90

Is exactly the same as an EP9i Superwinch !!!! Is a Come-up 9.5i with the cone brake, and solenoid pack in the bridge. Come-up make them for Superwinch. As used by some of the winch challenge boys as their rear winch. Such a Jim Marsden - although his is a tad moddified.

No motor movement at all when try to winch in. Motor does not turn.

No click that I could hear, however will check later on.

Tis as if the 'winch in' from the lead is disconected.

[western]

Sounds like a duff solenoid to me, had a similar fault with my Husky last year, it would winch out but not in, new Albright solly pack cured it.

[bishbosh]

Aye, I'm with Ralph - the mighty Albright is the way forward.

[Peter]

Aye, I'm with Ralph - the mighty Albright is the way forward.

Well I was thinking of going down this route originally, taking the wires off the solenoid pack over the bridge, and running then under the wing to a Albright solenoid pack - the running the control to inside the cab.

Perhaps this has accelerated this little job.

Thanks very much for giving me a sense of optimism back again.

Will have a word with Jim when I'm down his yard in the week - should'nt take more than an hour to do.

Cheers

Peter

[western]

Albright Solenoid connections Edited May 13, 2006 by western

[LR90]

it may even just be a dodgy connection from the remote or the remote switch. Even cheaper than fixing selenoids so worth checking

[white90]

White90

Is exactly the same as an EP9i Superwinch !!!! Is a Come-up 9.5i with the cone brake, and solenoid pack in the bridge. Come-up make them for Superwinch. As used by some of the winch challenge boys as their rear winch. Such a Jim Marsden - although his is a tad moddified.

No motor movement at all when try to winch in. Motor does not turn.

No click that I could hear, however will check later on.

Tis as if the 'winch in' from the lead is disconected.

Not being awkward but I meant a Husky (superwinch) slow but sturdy and reliable

Warn so many users can't be wrong.

cheap and cheerful winches are just that except when they fail and become cheap and miserable

all built to a Cost something has to be saved on.

The bit that would worry me is the "there was a bit of grunching noise before it gave up. "

[Bush65]

As there could be many possibilities, you haven't given very good information, for people to help and you don't have a good record with winches from your own admission (which make people wonder!!!).

How well has the winch been maintained? Do you clean and lubricate it regularly, and particularly after trips involving water/mud crossing. You do realise that they are not water proof and rust inside if left with water or condensation inside, sometimes to the point where they will not run.

Start by putting the winch in free spool and pulling the rope off the drum, down to the 1st layer. This will eliminate over-wrapped rope turns (caused by poor winching practice).

And you should be able to tell if the winch turns freely or if it is bound - I have seen distorted winch bars cause low mount winches to bind where they can just power out, but not power in with no load.

You should also check for any bad noises or vibrations while the winch is turning.

If that is OK, but the winch will only power one way and not the other, it is probably the solenoid pack or wiring (not the motor).

Inspect the wiring and connections in the solenoid pack. A multimeter and is useful for testing these. Identify which solenoids should energise when powering in and out (you should have a wiring diagram). The multimeter can tell you if those solenoids are recieving power, both control and power, and if the solenoid is closing.

If not, jumper leads to the solenoids will tell you if it is the solenoid or the wiring.

To test the motor, start with the multimeter and check for short circuits and high resistance.

If these seem ok, test the motor by connecting a jumper lead from one of the field posts to the armature post, an earth lead (from the motor earth screw), then a jumper from the battery +ve to the other field post.

To test in the opposite direction, swap the jumpers to the other field posts.

I have left out a lot of detail, but it is too much typing for someone that doesn't help much in the 1st instance. Sorry for being so brutal, but is the way it is with a lot of these type of posts.

[DefcoL]

Hi does any one know who repairs/sells winchs in the bucks area?

Lawrence

[western]

I think the nearest to you would be Bushey Hall @ Elstree

BHWgroup

[Peter]

As there could be many possibilities, you haven't given very good information, for people to help and you don't have a good record with winches from your own admission (which make people wonder!!!).

How well has the winch been maintained? Do you clean and lubricate it regularly, and particularly after trips involving water/mud crossing. You do realise that they are not water proof and rust inside if left with water or condensation inside, sometimes to the point where they will not run.

Start by putting the winch in free spool and pulling the rope off the drum, down to the 1st layer. This will eliminate over-wrapped rope turns (caused by poor winching practice).

And you should be able to tell if the winch turns freely or if it is bound - I have seen distorted winch bars cause low mount winches to bind where they can just power out, but not power in with no load.

You should also check for any bad noises or vibrations while the winch is turning.

If that is OK, but the winch will only power one way and not the other, it is probably the solenoid pack or wiring (not the motor).

Inspect the wiring and connections in the solenoid pack. A multimeter and is useful for testing these. Identify which solenoids should energise when powering in and out (you should have a wiring diagram). The multimeter can tell you if those solenoids are recieving power, both control and power, and if the solenoid is closing.

If not, jumper leads to the solenoids will tell you if it is the solenoid or the wiring.

To test the motor, start with the multimeter and check for short circuits and high resistance.

If these seem ok, test the motor by connecting a jumper lead from one of the field posts to the armature post, an earth lead (from the motor earth screw), then a jumper from the battery +ve to the other field post.

To test in the opposite direction, swap the jumpers to the other field posts.

I have left out a lot of detail, but it is too much typing for someone that doesn't help much in the 1st instance. Sorry for being so brutal, but is the way it is with a lot of these type of posts.

Bush65,

Thanks for being frank.

Brand new winch, fitted 3 weeks ago.

Unfortunately for me, I bought the i model, hoping to be able to not have to worry about bunching as there is more room between the bridge and the drum, than the other that uses bars. Anyway, tried to take the solenoids out when got the winch on day 1, but the pack is jammed tight into the bridge, so gave up as thought if I went down the route of knocking it out with a hammer it'd probable break, was very fast when 1st used.

Tried an earlier question, of listening for noises from it in the quiet of the garage. When winch-in (the failure) is tried on the remote lead, I get a definite click - like a swtiching noise - but the drum does not turn.

BTW the rope is off the drum, took the opportunity whilst it still freespooled out to get if off - as have previously had to cut my expensive rope last time.

LandRover off to garage on Tuesday AM for annual service and MOT, so will get it checked out then by a professional.

Warn winches are good, but do also need to be maintained and were beyond my budget at the time.

Ideally would have got an 8274, d44 bumper, 2" lift, Mach5's, lockers front and rear, and a truck cab - and winch on rear - but budget won't stretch to this so trying to keep it tight.

Cheers

Peter