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200tdi into a 90


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You can usually feel the injection of the fuel if you actually hold the metal injection pipes, its kinda of like a pulsing.

You need to find out where you have fuel flowing and where you don't. The best thing is to get a mate to start turning it over when you start cracking union nuts in the fuel system to see where its going (if it is).

Oh, I quick thought, is your throttle adjusted properly??? if its not adjusted to idle position on start up then maybe its not actually opening up any fuel to go into the injection pump? try turning it over with the throttle depressed a bit? - doing that can also help clear any trapped air in the system, but as its so high pressure most of it will get blown through anyways.

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Hi Paul,

I had a similar problem with my 19J...It turned out that I needed a new fuel pipe as the compressed washer part of the pipe had been over tightened (not be me-honest!) and was letting air in.

I also replaced the Lift Pump at the same time as I was only getting drips of fuel at the injectors. Worked fine since. A Lift Pump is only a few quid from Paddocks/Tonks.

Where abouts are you in Mansfield? I'm just off Junc 27...

Cheers,

Liam

Hi liam,

I replaced the fuel pipe a few months ago, and just checked to make sure there is fuel in it, which there is, im going to get more fuel and by-pass everything to see if that does it, im off junction 29 i think? not been here that long, pleasley is the village

cheers paul

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Right then, i think i may have made a little headway?, I had help today so i could get under the bonnet and twidle with things.

1. fuel definately is being drawn into the pump as I have connected a funnel directly to the pump piping and it sucks it in.

2.diesel is definately being pumped upto the fuel pump as i left it unplugged and it went everywhere :rolleyes:

My major discovery and question is this, when the engine is cranking at the solenoid the power drops from 12ish volts down to 7volts, does the solenoid need 12volts to activate it? and would this then mean the alternator isnt putting out enough current and needs replacing?

Cheers in eager anticipation

Paul

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The alternator isn't what supplies the current at the cranking stage, it's coming from the battery.

Try a temporary feed from the battery positive to the solenoid, it may be that there is some resistance that is increasing on cranking.

Or, more likely it's that the battery is giving up? What's the voltage measured at the battery terminals during cranking?

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Check your earth leads as that will drop the volts . One from engine to chassis and one from battery to gearbox/chassis.

As Ralph said as a temp test remove the stop sol. and take out plunger and spring and refit , you will know its open then

cheers

Steveb

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examine the soleniod 12v feed wire too, these do get warm & the outer sleeving hardens & the wire inside could have internal breaks in it. a slave wire as suggested will overcome.

is that the one that has a spade on the end and is coloured white with red trace?, the outer casing was brittle when i refitted it. Sorry please ignore that i read it as the starter motor solenoid, sorry

Further to this today i have found another bloody wire, this one is black, about 3mm in diameter and carries a permanent 12v supply, it is located under the rubber gaiter that covers the gearsticks in the cabin, it did have on it half a female spade connector, which dropped off, it is following the path of the really thick live wire(red) that goes to the starter, but it is only 6 inches long and i cant see that it was connected to anything as its not long enough to go anywhere?

Anyone want to buy a landrover :(

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Check your earth leads as that will drop the volts . One from engine to chassis and one from battery to gearbox/chassis.

As Ralph said as a temp test remove the stop sol. and take out plunger and spring and refit , you will know its open then

cheers

Steveb

as i know have a selection of solenoids to play with, i rigged it up so that i could crank the engine whilst having the solenoid in my hand and sure enough it pulls in the plunger and it stays in whilst the engine is being turned over, i think now i can rule out the solenoid and look for something else, would the fuel pump just give up like that? you know it started, then 12 hours later after doing absolutely nothing to the car, nothing?

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hi all,

another update,

along with this are pictures of the afformentioned green wire to see if any light can be shed?

today, started cracking on rebuilding the rest of the truck, with no problems to mention???????????? needed to move it forward a foot or two and the damn, **,**********fu*****,*****wan*in*, bloody thing wont start? what the hell have i done, i do have dreams, but i dont remember one where i have killed the pope or slept with a nun, so why am i being punished?????

Hilarity aside, what is going on? yesterday it started and sounded lovely, today the engine turns over but wont fire, so far i have replaced what may have been a faulty stop solenoid, which did allow me to turn the truck off as i should be able to, the part i bought was new, but was britpart and didnt seem to go in enough?, but with it in it started, today same set up naadda? Nothing has changed, the engine seems not to be getting any fuel? it still turns over as it should but doesnt fire, i have cracked open an injector on the cylinder head and no fuel, gone further back and there seems to be fuel coming through the system until it hits the pump, i took the start of a different injector pipe off and thats where the fuel seems to stop at the intake of the pump? all this was done whilst the engine was being cranked. I have also had the fuel filter off and made sure it is brimming with fuel to prevent air lock.

post-19709-127581083926_thumb.jpg

this is the source of the wire

post-19709-127581135229_thumb.jpg

the rubber connector where it changes from double to single

post-19709-127581088757_thumb.jpg

and its terminal

cheers Paul

Hi Paul,

I am currently having the same problem as you with my conversion...Everything back in and the engine turns over but doesn't catch.

However, i believe that the green wire you are talking about goes to the temp sender at the front of your engine, if you still need to know.

If you do resolve your engine starting problems then please post as i am trying all i can as well!!

Chris

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Hi Paul,

I am currently having the same problem as you with my conversion...Everything back in and the engine turns over but doesn't catch.

However, i believe that the green wire you are talking about goes to the temp sender at the front of your engine, if you still need to know.

If you do resolve your engine starting problems then please post as i am trying all i can as well!!

Chris

Hi Chris, and all that have helped

Finally i did sort my problem, last night in another attempt i discovered it was the fuel stop solenoid? again i bought the excact replacement part(just in case i had a faulty one) think its 6702p and again nothing? there was a difference between the one i took out originally and the Britpart one, this being that the Britpart one when activate the plunger remains sticking out by about 3mm and original retracts fully, so i put old plunger into new body and it works.

I have done this before and it stopped working the next day, but at least i know its deffo that part if it happens to me again, i'll just have to wait till payday and give Landrover £100 for a genuine one :(

The green wire, i think may be as described earlier, for ancillaries, I know which wire you are talking about and its already connected to the temp sender( did you swap your temp sender for the defender one as they dont work properly without converting it?

)

Cheers Paul, big thanx to all

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Paul,

I managed to resolve my issue, after it was pointed out to me that i had the fuel stop and oil solenoid wires mixed up!!!

However i am still having trouble with the temp sender, i replaced the temp sender on the new disco 200 engine with one from a 'steve parker' kit and connected up the green with blue tracer wire, however it is not registering anything on the dial in the dash. I am now going to check the dial on the dash as i did have the dash out the other day and may of wired it up incorrectly, if this is possible.

Any photos of ones that are working would be great!!!

Cheers

Chris

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Paul,

I managed to resolve my issue, after it was pointed out to me that i had the fuel stop and oil solenoid wires mixed up!!!

However i am still having trouble with the temp sender, i replaced the temp sender on the new disco 200 engine with one from a 'steve parker' kit and connected up the green with blue tracer wire, however it is not registering anything on the dial in the dash. I am now going to check the dial on the dash as i did have the dash out the other day and may of wired it up incorrectly, if this is possible.

Any photos of ones that are working would be great!!!

Cheers

Chris

Hi Chris,

Sorry it took so long to get pictures up, here they are;

post-19709-127704722686_thumb.jpg;

This first one is almost behind the engine near the bulkhead, the two wires im holding are the fuel stop solenoid ands the oil pump, they come out of my loom together and are same length, sorry i cant make out the trace on them

post-19709-12770472326_thumb.jpg

This is the temp gauge wire, its a single green wire that pops out of my loom about two feet down from the other two

Hope this helps

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Hi all again,

little update for you all and a tiny little more help please. Today got everything done, fluids etc took it out for a 5minute run all seemed ok? pulled well, little black smoke on start up, nothing to much, on tickover and running there is a little pale blue smoke, so i thought id go and pick up my recently purchsed Sankey trailer, which now adourns my in-laws driveway. Anyhow got about a mile, then in third going up a 45 degree hill, engine wasnt over-revving, coping well and there was a really loud bang from the exhaust where it exits the vehicle, sounded like a blow out, or a crisp packet when you blow it up and pop it(only louder) and a little black smoke? backfire? i know in my head this has still got to be fuel related, maybe timing or mixture? once again, any ideas.

The only other thing I have done before taking it out is last night welded a new exhaust system together and as I have fitted it used exhaust compound on the joints, although I didnt weld it on the vehicle and its 3 piece, could it be a build up of gasses from the welding and or exhaust paste

Paul

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Paul,

Cheers for the photos.

Can't help you with your problem, however my new problem is the water pump leaking water like no ones business!!!! Coming from around a bolt head as i can pour water in and see it pour out!! Off to the garage tomorrow for their opinion!!

Hope all goes well with your one

Chris

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