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Ive got a 1988 90 and I have put on a set of disco alloys , what size wheel spacers would I need so that I can fit the center plastic trims? It has the drum brakes on the rear, and when I got the alloy fitted by a trye company they didnt fit one of the rear wheels flat on the hub and I had people flashing me as the alloy was ovulating, someone told me that that disco wheels are quite a precise is that true as there is someone slling 4mm spacers on ebay and I know this wont allow me to fit the center caps but I thought it may stop that problem happening again, any thought would be appreciated,del

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I have the same problem on a Salisbury axle I'm modifying to fit to my 109 and the Range Rover CSK/LSE/ 90SV wheels I bought on here. I'm using a pair of scrap drums turned down on a lathe to make 1/4" spacers along with Wolf wheel studs. I will have the protruding plastic cone like you, but if I can't live with it, I may get some of Ashcroft's HD drive flanges and paint the cover cap with chrome effect paint to mimic wheel nuts.

The other solution is the 30mm spacers for alloy rims (they have raised edges to locate the centre of the wheel, unlike the plain spacers for steel rims).

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You can pick a Disc braked Disco axle up for less than £100 on eBay.

This is what I am doing in order for me to fit some alloys and have better braking capability. Well worth it in my opinion.

On the other hand I think you can opt for spacers, but they are £100+, so you might as well do it properly and install a disc braked axle.

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I think there is something about the load limits on a Disco vs Defender with more issues on a 110 as it has a greater maximum load. IIRC... I also think the bit about fitting them to wheels with drums is about them not fitting correctly and being dangrous as they look fastened but leave a 4mm gap. If you are ok with weight thing i.e. the wheels are approved for the defenders weight, I would go for the 30mm spacer option this will let you fit the center cap, you can get centering ones which would help.

although if I am wrong I'm sure a grown up will be along soon to correct me.

Jason.

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I wasnt really worried about fitting the center caps but I saw someone selling 4mm spacers on ebay for £16 (for four) and I thought that might be a cheap fix for the poor fitting problem

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I think the issue when you start adding shims is that you take 4mm off the wheel stud, so you may need to put in longer studs to make sure you have them fastened correctly. With spacers you fasten the spacer to the existing studs and then the wheel to the spacer stud so remove this issue.

There are negatives about spaces espicialy making sure the nuts are tight etc, I run 50mm spacers and think they are great for improving the barge I can get round corners now, they get checked every 3k and have loctite on the bolts and I have not had an issue so far.

Cheers, Jason.

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It seems the nay-sayers didn't bother to read my post. The reason you can't put alloys on the drum braked axle is becaise of the depth of the hub protrusion holding the wheel off the mating face. A 4mm+ spacer with Wolf studs will deal with that.

30mm spacers will only reduce the turning circle if you also adjust the stop locks on the swivels - the spacers will not reduce the turning circle directly (in fact, they will marginally increase it), but because the tyre is moved away from the radius arm, the steering can be permitted to travel more than standard. Hover, wheel bearings, stub axles, swivel pins and steering rod ends will wear faster with the spacers fitted because of the tangental loading on the wheel and the increase in steering loads. It shouldn't pose much of a problem unless you have manual (rather than PAS) steering, in which case the heavier steering can be a nuisance in low speed manoeuvring.

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