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Changing Engine and Transmission Mounting Rubbers


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There was a post recently about increased engine noise following an engine transplant, and the answer seemed to be that Britpart mounting rubbers had been used over genuine. I've recently put my 200tdi 90 back onto the road following a galv chassis swap, and guess what; the mountings are Britpart and the racket from the engine and general noise in the cab is louder than I remember with the old NA! I've got a set of genuine rubbers waiting to go on, what is the forum recommended technique for changing the engine and transmission rubbers whilst disturbing as little else as possible? I do have access to an engine crane, would it be best to take the weight with this and swap one rubber at a time?

On a related note, what is the panel's thoughts on damaging the head gasket whilst using an engine crane? The reason I ask is that both the replacement NA and the 200tdi I put in were found to be blowing at the back of the head after being lifted. I wonder whether the lifting eyes on the head do place sufficient strain on the head bolts when lifting a complete engine and transmission as to cause the gasket to fail?

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remove the nuts & washers on each side of the rubber mount, support the engine or gearbox with a trolley jack, remove either the engine or chassis metal mounting bracket & then swap the rubber bit over & refit the bracket, gearbox rubber mounts need a few more bolts removing, but a fairly easy job.

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You won't be able to replace the mounts in the way that Ralph describes unless you can jack the gearbox or engine up at least 3-inches.

Transfer/gearbox -

Apply hand brake, place jack under brake drum and jack up until the gearbox starts to move upwards a small amount. Undo the 4 x 19mm head bolts that holds the mounting plate to the transfer case. Undo the 15mm nut that secures the rubber to the chassis bracket. Undo the 15mm nut that secures the rubber to the transfer case mounting plate. Jack the gearbox up some more until the whole mounting assembly comes loose. Replace the rubber and reassemble. Do one mounting at a time - the gearbox may move sideways if you do them both at the same time.

The 15mm nuts that hold the rubber to the chassis bracket will most likely come out with the threaded stud still attached (which makes it easier to remove it all), but you need to recover the nut to use on the new rubber, or replace it with M10 coarse nyloc nut.

Engine -

Place a jack under the sump (use a piece of wood to cushion it) In the same fashion as the gearbox - raise, remove the bolts on the block, the nut on the top that secures the rubber to the engine bracket, and the nut that secures the rubber to the chassis bracket. Jack up until it all comes loose and then remove/replace the rubber.

Les.

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Chadler,

No advice on changing the mounts, but I wonder if you have done the timing belt on the 200 whilst it was out? I managed to get mine one tooth out when I did it once, and whilst it ran, and timed up ok, it was incredibly noisy, and under powered. Just a thought....

Mark

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I'm just about to replace the rubber mounts for the second time as my engine and transfer box, as it seems the engine wants to escape when off roading.

Last time we used a bottle jack under the engine mounts and sat on the diff / axle to lift each side one at a time and rotate the engine back in to place.

The transfer box ones are easy, again just jack up and replace.

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I'm just about to replace the rubber mounts for the second time as my engine and transfer box, as it seems the engine wants to escape when off roading.

Last time we used a bottle jack under the engine mounts and sat on the diff / axle to lift each side one at a time and rotate the engine back in to place.

The transfer box ones are easy, again just jack up and replace.

Having just changed 3 out of 4 of the mounts, a little tip, cutting 5 mm of the thread on the transfer box drivers side makes it a lot easier as it is very difficult to raise that side enough to clear.

Alternatively taking the bracket off the chassis also helps (unless you have got a fuel tank guard making the bolts very difficult to access).

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