Jump to content

A Little CV Advice?


Recommended Posts

Okay, so this problem has been bugging me for a while now:

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=bR5FmjXXKJ0

Annoying clunks every time I stop, pull away, change gear, do just about anything. My thought was, it's just a worn diff. I'll change it. So change it I did...

When I got the old diff out (by god these things are F heavy) I noticed there was no play in the thing at all! Oh dear, I thought... all that work for nothing :(

I went to check the other drive-train components in the front axle to try and find the play. There was a barely noticeable amount between the CVs and the drive flanges, and the same between the shafts and the diff's splines. There was, however, a fairly large amount of play in the nearside (long) CV, between the inner and outer cages of the CV itself.

I have been noticing some clicking on sharp low-speed turns, parking and the like, which I know is indicative of a dying CV, so my questions are as follows:

(Vehicle is a 1992 Defender 90, VIN JA907---)

  1. Since my axle code starts 20L, my parts information seems to indicate that I can use AEU2522, would others agree? Various websites contradict this info, for example Britcar list the AEU 2522 as being for 21L, 22L and 23L. The difference between it and the later RTC6862 is the the half-shaft-to-CV joint spline count?
  2. I assume I can just replace the CV and not the shaft, if that part is salvageable, and how does one get the shaft out of the CV? The parts books show a circlip?

I do want to rebuild the axle, but the cost is going to be prohibitive, especially when I factor in the new swivel balls it needs :(

Thanks :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine's JA920... and has the RTC part, not the AEU.

The drive shaft will come out of the centre of the CV, I put the shaft in a vice and knocked the old CV and stub shaft off the end of it. The circlip sits in a groove in the end of the shaft and goes inside the centre of the CV.

My CVs sounded worse with lock, and worse in reverse. The noise was a clack-clack-clack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you know what your axle code is off hand?

Apparently AEU2522 is up to 22L27847 for the right hand side, and up to 23L12092 for the left hand side.

RTC6862 is from 22L27848 on the right hand side, and from 23L12093 on the left hand side....and "20L RHS and 21L LHS".

So, reading that as I do, I should have AEU2522s in both sides....but I could have an RTC6862 in the right hand side!

Nightmare!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mmm I think, looking at photos on the web, that it's an AEU2522. This is the off-side one, the one that doesn't need replacing yet, but one would hope they're the same. Will probably do both anyhow:

post-10578-127576986947_thumb.jpg

I will have to pull the damn things again, remove the halfshafts and count the splines.

At least I notched the brake line brackets so no need to re-bleed! :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rear axle is good, there's a Disco unit on there with the 1-piece shafts so no play to be had there.

The rear prop is nice, very little rotational play (and yes I did check with the handbrake off! :P), it's the front where the problem seems to be :(

Just costed up a re-build on the front axle for the parts that need doing, ie. one CV and both swivel balls, comes out as over £300! Might just change the CV for now and change the swivel oil more often :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the spline count on the halfshaft where it enters the cv Retro - if you have a large 23 spline count then it's AEU If you have a tiny 32 spline (which will actually count 33 :blink: ) then its the RTC..... All the picture shows is that you have a wide hub type. Have you thought about a decent second hand one?

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that info Steve.

Decent second hand one? Well the Capel sortout is next week, but I'm not holding out much hope, I would have thought they'd only be replaced if they break or wear out. eBay has plenty of new ones of unknown heritage, but I don't fancy paying out for a Genuine or OEM one as I'm tight :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the rotational play in the CV:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hu1eMCKv5dc

I beat the CV off the end of the shaft and counted the splines, it turns out it's the 32-spline one I have in there currently. So RTC6862. No play in the internal or external splines though.

So I need to get either an RTC6862 or an AEU2522 and a 10-spline to 23-spline halfshaft to match?

I got a bit carried away with the stripping down and took the whole end off in the end:

post-10578-127583953154_thumb.jpg

My god those 14mm bi-hex bolts are tight, had to chop the end off a 14mm spanner and go at it with 18" of box section! Going to re-build this side first, as this swivel ball leaks and I don't want the 'new' CV being ruined straight away by water ingress. The other side can wait for now.

I'll have a look in the workshop on monday morning, we may have one, we've some axles that have been pulled apart for prototyping so parts are often fine. if i have one i'll PM you.

Steve

That would be grand, thank you Steve :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was my next step! Luckily the bar did it.

As far as my CV issue goes, I'm trying to work out what I need, or what I can fit.

Current setup is as follows:

Diff - 10-spline.

Shaft - 10 spline diff end and 32-spline CV end.

CV - 32 spline inner.

So two questions really...

I correct in assuming that this is in a cross-over period? I seem to be right between the change from using the stronger 23-spline CVs to the weaker 32-spline ones, and the change to 24-spline diffs from the weaker 10-spline units. This gives me the worst possible setup!

And I am also assuming that what I want ideally, ignoring shaft/CV strength here and focusing only on spline counts, is a 24-spline diff, a 24-spline to 23-spline half-shaft, and a 23-spline CV?

As far as I see it, I have three options to me here:

  1. Replace the CV like-for-like, keeping the current 32-spline to 10-spline half-shaft.
  2. Replace the CV with an AEU2522 (apparently the strongest one), and also replace the half-shaft with a 23-spline to 10-spline one (does this exist?).
  3. As above, but replace the diff with a 24-spline unit and get an aftermarket 23-spline to 24-spline half-shaft (expensive, since I would have to do the other side too).

Am I correct in my thinking here?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My god those 14mm bi-hex bolts are tight, had to chop the end off a 14mm spanner and go at it with 18" of box section!

They are loctited. Try giving the heads a smart tap (along the length of the bolt) with a hammer before trying to undo them with a spanner.

Nick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was my next step! Luckily the bar did it.

As far as my CV issue goes, I'm trying to work out what I need, or what I can fit.

Current setup is as follows:

Diff - 10-spline.

Shaft - 10 spline diff end and 32-spline CV end.

CV - 32 spline inner.

So two questions really...

I correct in assuming that this is in a cross-over period? I seem to be right between the change from using the stronger 23-spline CVs to the weaker 32-spline ones, and the change to 24-spline diffs from the weaker 10-spline units. This gives me the worst possible setup!

And I am also assuming that what I want ideally, ignoring shaft/CV strength here and focusing only on spline counts, is a 24-spline diff, a 24-spline to 23-spline half-shaft, and a 23-spline CV?

As far as I see it, I have three options to me here:

  1. Replace the CV like-for-like, keeping the current 32-spline to 10-spline half-shaft.
  2. Replace the CV with an AEU2522 (apparently the strongest one), and also replace the half-shaft with a 23-spline to 10-spline one (does this exist?).
  3. As above, but replace the diff with a 24-spline unit and get an aftermarket 23-spline to 24-spline half-shaft (expensive, since I would have to do the other side too).

Am I correct in my thinking here?

If i remember correctly the cv's you have are 8 1/2 inches long total end to end?? if you get the 10 spline / 23 spline ones the cv's for them are 9 1/2 inches long?? therefore you would have to replace the stub axles to take the longer cv's & replace hub assembly??

i know i had to on mine when i went from 10 / 23 to the later type 24 / 32's.

Just a thought would it not be cheaper to get a complete axle second hand?? think i paid about £120 for one on my old Disco from the breakers all swivels were good etc etc??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My vehicle is a 1992 200Tdi so as I read it that should mean I have the earlier wider hubs, which means the longer CVs? I want to retain this, if I can. Rather not swap the whole axle if I'm honest, it's the earlier (stronger) CV setup I want to end up with. Ie. AEU2522s.

As far as I can see it, there are three types of CVs.

Wide Hubs

- Early 23-spline (AEU2522)

- Later 32-spline (RTC6862)

Narrow Hubs (~300Tdi onwards)

- 32-spline as above, but shorter.

Or maybe not, that's what I have gathered but I may be wrong.

This is all horrendously confusing :(

Tony has some CVs, but I just need to find some half-shafts to mate them to my 10-spline diff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All the 32 spline cv's are 8 1/2 inches long. the 23 spline which are the stronger are 9 1/2 inches.

If you have the wide end flanges on the outside of the hub then you have the 23 spline. if you have the later thinner flanges then you will have the 32 spline cv's

But if yours look like this then the above is wrong:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-FRONT-N-S-HALF-SHAFT-CV-JOINT-10-/120451355948?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c0b75d52c

Hope this helps??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can assure you the CV inside had many more than 23 splines!

My parts book implies there were two types of CV for the wide hubs, a stronger 23 spline and a weaker 32 spline.

And then a shorter 32 spline for the later (300Tdi on) narrow hubs.

The hubs, stub axle and driving members changed at VIN KA930456, the introduction of rear Discs, upper swivel bearings, 24-spline diffs/shafts etc.

Edit: Got the splines the wrong way around!

Edited by Retroanaconda
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are wide and narrow 32/24 spline CV joints... The stub axles and drive flanges are the same for the pre' 200TDI as the 200TDI, but the CV joints are different, so must be the same length. The narrow stubs came out with the 300TDI.

As I understand it.

AEU2522 - 23/24 wide pre' 200TDI

RTC6862 - 32/24 wide 200TDI

TDJ000010 - 32/24 narrow 300TDI til current.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy