Maverik Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Trying to get the drums off my salisbury rear axel, the workshop manual says you remove 1 screw, Is it a counter sunk screw or a grub type screw? if its the latter, i fear the head had been broken off the one I have... cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 it's a normal screwdriver slot countersunk screw. just like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 If it's the same as Series, it's countersunk flat head, about M6 but not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 M8 x 16mm long according to this Brit-car link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 M8 x 16mm long according to this Brit-car link Ok, I don't have a picture, but ther was 2 holes in the drum. one hole was flush that was about 5 mm deep, the other hole was counter sunk with what looked like a grub type affair in it, I'm guessing it is either the remains of a broken flat head screw, or indeed a grub screw, but from the track record of the car so far it will be the former. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewMawson Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Trying to get the drums off my salisbury rear axel, the workshop manual says you remove 1 screw, Is it a counter sunk screw or a grub type screw? if its the latter, i fear the head had been broken off the one I have... cheers If the countersunk head has broken off, then the drum should come off - have you slackened the brakes shoes right off? If not it'll be a b****r to remove. AWEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 If the countersunk head has broken off, then the drum should come off - have you slackened the brakes shoes right off? If not it'll be a b****r to remove. AWEM one of the problems in the first place was the rear brakes didn't seem to be contributing much to stopping!... so no need for any more adjustment, and true it should just "fall" off. I wasn't quite thinking, guess it will need to have a meeting with mr lead hammer, the drive flange hadn't been removed for some time and oil stank that came out of it. I'm hopeing the pads haven't worn too much and damged the drum... but I am suspecting the worst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Ok, I don't have a picture, but ther was 2 holes in the drum. one hole was flush that was about 5 mm deep, the other hole was counter sunk with what looked like a grub type affair in it, I'm guessing it is either the remains of a broken flat head screw, or indeed a grub screw, but from the track record of the car so far it will be the former. there's a threaded hole for a bolt to help ease the drum off, don't remember the thread size for it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 there's a threaded hole for a bolt to help ease the drum off, don't remember the thread size for it now. The thread is the same as that drum securing screw you can't get out. You are supposed to remove that screw from it's countersunk hole, where the female thread is in the hub flange, and put the screw in the un-countersunk hole, where the thread is in the drum, and the end of the screw bears against the hub flange. The snag is the screw is too short to be fully effective. It only works if the drum is stuck to the hub flange, when a short movement will free it off. Where the drum is dragging over the brake shoes the screw is not long enough. In its place an M10 coach bolt works fine, and has enough length of thread to draw the drum of the full width of the shoes. Just nip the coach bolt up until it binds, this will very slightly tilt the drum. Hit the drum on the opposite side to remove the tilt. The coach bolt will now tighten a bit more, so nip it up again, then repeat the hit on the opposite side of the drum. Repeat until the drum falls on the floor. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Thanks for clearing that up Dave, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted June 11, 2010 Author Share Posted June 11, 2010 Cheers, I had wondered if it was somthing like that, will give it a go when I get the shoes and wheel bearings through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted June 11, 2010 Share Posted June 11, 2010 Umm, I'm away from home at the moment, and having second thoughts about 'M10'. It will be obvious if the true answer is M8 though :-) Good Luck, with advice like this, you need it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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