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I'm looking to turn the Landy ( Def 90 200 TDi ) into an approximation of Blackpool sea front and have decided to

1) Upgrade to NAS Lights - Don't see any problems with that, just plug and play

2) Upgrade Headlights to HIDs. Already done this on my BMW R1200GS so again don't see that as a problem

The questions I have are around adding additional lights, specifically

3) 2 x PIA lights on the A-Bar

4) 4 x PIA lights on a light bar at the front

5) 2 x Worklights on the back

I want to have each set of lights on a switch on my new Mud console

Is it best to run each of these sets of lights on a seperate wiring loop and relay, or can you get away with them all off the same loop

Is it worth running a separate new lead direct from the battery with inline fuse or can I take a line of the existing fuse box

Handy with a soldering iron and electrical tape, but not that that happy with volts, watts or amps

K

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First. I understand that HID headlights are not legal in the UK unless fitted at production. If you have plenty money you could go LED.....

I've copied how I wire my headlights it may help you.

Headlight wiring. A better way to get light.

Each headlight has a connector for the bulb.

Fit a bulb into the connector and hold the bulb in your hand looking at the back of the connector with the middle terminal at the top.

Left hand terminal==Earth.Black wire

Top terminal========Dip beam.Blue red tracer.

Right hand terminal=Mainbeam.Blue white tracer.

Headlight wiring circuit.Provides dip at all times.Fuses to protect the wiring in case of accident damaging headlights.

You will need.

Two 70amp relays R70 from Vehicle Wiring Products.

Suitable correct colour coded cable of at least 29/0.030 wire of the required length for each of the headlight circuits.

Cable at least 44/0.30 Brown for the feed to the relay.

cable at least 44/0.30 black to earth the headlight bulb.

cable 14/0.30 to earth the relays.

Fuse box for spade type fuses,one fuse for each bulb element.

Lucar connectors to suit both the fuse box and the relay.

Connectors for the feed to the relay.

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

Fit both the fuse box andthe relays in a suitable position.

Make up a small loom,one dip one main beam[assuming two headlights]one earth.

Take the earth to the body/chassis.

take the dip wire to the fuse box and connect.

Take the main beam wire to the fuse box and connect.

Repeat for the other side.

You should now have the headlights wired into the fuse box.

As we are using the 70 amp relay.take a large lucar connector and join TWO wires into that connector for the dip circuit,make that wire a suitable length to go from the relay to the fuse box.

Repeat for the other light.

You should now be wired from the relay to the headlight.

Take TWO lengths of Brown wire fron either,the starter solenoid or the battery master switch.What ever is convienent,one wire to each of the relays useing the othe large terminal.

Earth both relays.

NOW!!!

Cut the ORIGINAL headlight connector off the Original headlight wiring and fit a Lucar connector to both the dip and main beam wires.

Fit fuses.

It should now work.

Good!!!

NOTE

I haven't given the relay connector numbers.That information MUST be supplied with the relay.

To have the dip switched on permantly.

Remove the shroud from the steering column.

Comming up the column is a cluster of wires.

The Blue wire is the headlight feed to the switch.

Te Blue with a red tracer is the dip feed from the dipswitch.

Cut both these wires and join together.I use a bullet connector but you can now get a proper Lucar block connector.

Please try this with test wirs before cutting the wires.

You can also do the same thing useing a relay.PM me if you would like me to sort this method out.

Get out bit.....

I've given you this information to the best of my ability.This is the method I've used on four of my rally cars and most of my road cars.Please use a fused link to check everything works before reconnecting the battery.

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90 head lights cannot be upgraded to HID. It would be illegal as they are not self cleaning or levelling.

Yeah, but they look great :-). On the beemer they pretty much light up the the next 5 miles of road

But thanks for the advice and warning, might hold back on the mains then and see what I get from everything else

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Hi,

I don't know much about this stuff or where the other person got their information from but I have a 2005 spec 90 XS with self levelling head lamps I.E. a switch on the dash to change the headlamp level.

Also try this place:

lloydspecialistdevelopments.co.uk

I did a quick Google for a HID conversion and found it.

Hope it helps

Landypc

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With that much lighting you probably need to bring a new heavy feed from the battery in unless there are several free positions in the fusebox with a good supply to them. One of those 6 or 12-way busbar fuseboxes would be an ideal candidate, fed by some 50-100amp or so cable to allow for all your future illumination flights of fancy.

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First. I understand that HID headlights are not legal in the UK unless fitted at production. If you have plenty money you could go LED.....

I've copied how I wire my headlights it may help you.

Headlight wiring. A better way to get light.

Each headlight has a connector for the bulb.

Fit a bulb into the connector and hold the bulb in your hand looking at the back of the connector with the middle terminal at the top.

Left hand terminal==Earth.Black wire

Top terminal========Dip beam.Blue red tracer.

Right hand terminal=Mainbeam.Blue white tracer.

Headlight wiring circuit.Provides dip at all times.Fuses to protect the wiring in case of accident damaging headlights.

You will need.

Two 70amp relays R70 from Vehicle Wiring Products.

Suitable correct colour coded cable of at least 29/0.030 wire of the required length for each of the headlight circuits.

Cable at least 44/0.30 Brown for the feed to the relay.

cable at least 44/0.30 black to earth the headlight bulb.

cable 14/0.30 to earth the relays.

Fuse box for spade type fuses,one fuse for each bulb element.

Lucar connectors to suit both the fuse box and the relay.

Connectors for the feed to the relay.

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

Fit both the fuse box andthe relays in a suitable position.

Make up a small loom,one dip one main beam[assuming two headlights]one earth.

Take the earth to the body/chassis.

take the dip wire to the fuse box and connect.

Take the main beam wire to the fuse box and connect.

Repeat for the other side.

You should now have the headlights wired into the fuse box.

As we are using the 70 amp relay.take a large lucar connector and join TWO wires into that connector for the dip circuit,make that wire a suitable length to go from the relay to the fuse box.

Repeat for the other light.

You should now be wired from the relay to the headlight.

Take TWO lengths of Brown wire fron either,the starter solenoid or the battery master switch.What ever is convienent,one wire to each of the relays useing the othe large terminal.

Earth both relays.

NOW!!!

Cut the ORIGINAL headlight connector off the Original headlight wiring and fit a Lucar connector to both the dip and main beam wires.

Fit fuses.

It should now work.

Good!!!

NOTE

I haven't given the relay connector numbers.That information MUST be supplied with the relay.

To have the dip switched on permantly.

Remove the shroud from the steering column.

Comming up the column is a cluster of wires.

The Blue wire is the headlight feed to the switch.

Te Blue with a red tracer is the dip feed from the dipswitch.

Cut both these wires and join together.I use a bullet connector but you can now get a proper Lucar block connector.

Please try this with test wirs before cutting the wires.

You can also do the same thing useing a relay.PM me if you would like me to sort this method out.

Get out bit.....

I've given you this information to the best of my ability.This is the method I've used on four of my rally cars and most of my road cars.Please use a fused link to check everything works before reconnecting the battery.

Thanks, thats awesome instructions

Keith

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"Upgrade to NAS Lights - Don't see any problems with that, just plug and play"

I assume you are using the RDX plinths rather than the OE ones otherwise you will find they are far from being just 'plug & play'?

Personally I used the genuine ones and went for a full set of twelve, looks far nicer & balanced in my opinion however fitting does take a lot longer (plenty of drilling) but I prefer the finished product.

"Upgrade Headlights to HIDs. Already done this on my BMW R1200GS so again don't see that as a problem"

I've also got HID on my GS which is great but I would never consider fitting them to my LR for several reasons.

First I just don't need them. Decent headlamps fitted with Osram 90% brighter 55/60W bulbs provide all the illumination I need for buzzing around the country lanes where I live. If I decide I DO need additonal lighting I have a pair of Hella Rallye 3003's on Hi-beam (also fitted with Osram 90% brighter 55W bulbs) and combined there is enough light to illuminate a small county.

Although I don't off-road anything like I used to I still dip the headlamps occasionally and if the Osram bulbs get contaminated or damaged (VERY difficult to seal a standard 7-inch headlamp) they are easy / cheap enough to replace. A HID conversion is more expensive.

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I think theres a difference between self levelling and ones that can be adjusted...

There is. HID lamps must be automatically self levelling, which is why (unless you are prepared to do a lot of high class tinkering) they are only legal if fitted as a factory option.

Personally, I think badly adjusted and over bright headlights are a bloody menace.

To the OP, can I point out that the headlights on your 90 will be at least foot higher off the ground than those in your beemer and (leaving aside the legality) unless they are made to be self levelling they will always dazzle anyone not driving a truck coming in the other direction. Please don' t do it - at best it's antisocial, at worst (for instance for a scooter rider or cyclist on a wet road), it could quite literally be lethal.

Nick.

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I would have a seperate 'auxillary lighting fuse box' as it were, like this one:

http://www.furneauxriddall.com/shop/acatalog/Blade_Fuses_Holders.html#a5025B

Run a decent size cable from the battery to this, and then an individually fused run to each 'set' of lights that you want to be able to work independently. Fused at the correct value for the amperage draw of the lights.

Eg.

- A-bar driving lamps

- Roof bar driving lamps

- Rear work lamps

Then a run of the correct size cable (might be different for each light set, I would work out the biggest you'll need and use that for them all) to a relay for each light set, and then on to the lights themselves.

To switch these relays you would just run a wire from each of your Mud Console switches to the relevant relay. You may wish to have the A-Bar driving lamps come on with high-beam automatically, this certainly seems to be the norm for these.

As for the normal headlamps, I would leave them as they are. Check the wiring connections for corrosion (which will reduce output), and fit some decent bulbs and they should see you good. If you wanted to you could wire them into the above system, I'd do two circuits for dip beam and full beam, just switching them via the standard feeds from the light switch.

Hope that helps

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Have just realised your beemer is a bike not a car, so the point about the lights being higher on the 90 won't really apply. Doesn't alter much else of what I said though.

Yes, and I checked last night, the headlight on the bike are 5" higher than than LR. I have HID on dip and full, plus BMW fog lights, so quite a selection to choose from when out and about and thought I'd quite like that range of options on the truck too

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