Les Henson Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 The flow is in the top and out the bottom. Although I can't imagine the radiator being totally blocked. I've certainly never come across it before. You should be able to feel the same pressure on the bottom hose as on the top one (or anywhere on the cooling system really, including heater hoses, although it would be more difficult to detect. You don't need to take the radiator out to check to see if it's blocked - just remove both hoses and run the garden hose in the top. If it gushes out the bottom, then it's not totally blocked, but could still be partially obstructed. If water flows through the radiator after this test, then re-connect the hoses, start the engine and slowly re-fill while it ticks over. If after a while you still get a stream of bubbles. then I would say take the head off. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 1, 2006 Author Share Posted June 1, 2006 Just thinkg aloud and piching Dans thoughts from his email to me. if its exhaust gases escaping into the coolant, would you still not expect the rad to the get hot and the bottom pipe to warm up? at the moment top pipe flexes under load, and gets very hot, rad cool and bottom pipe cool as per original post. whioch makes me think still blockage - likely to be air. come on DSN stop worrying about moving house and flush the system through! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The pressurised air in the system prevents circulation, so the engine can be cooking, but the rad still be cold. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 1, 2006 Author Share Posted June 1, 2006 right, my knowledge is expanding, now all we need is DSN to let us know whats happening! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSN Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Hi there. Finally managed to get on internet. Well I've had no chance to do anything on the motor. I am therefore looking at getting it to my mechanic mate in Coventry who can hopefully sort it out for a reasonable cost. Only problem is getting it to him. Have use of tow car but source of trailers has dried up. Guess may need to hire one for a few hours and quickly shift over. Anyone on here from Leamington/Cov area and got a large car trailer? Hopefully a head skim and head gasket will see it running properly again. Need to get sorted for Tony's bash and a probable camping week down that way as well. Cheers for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 come on Dan get it running!!!! Mo would be a good partner for TC bash, try PMing him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 12, 2006 Author Share Posted June 12, 2006 Dan, got anywhere yet then? i still reckon its a blocked rad! need it sorted for TC event you cant marshall and pull people out with no vehicle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSN Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Hi all, Sorry has been a long time since last update but lots on so landy was down the long list! Anyway I return with good news. She is fully running and MOT'd to boot! I managed to get the motor over to my mates garage in the end as I could not see me getting anywhere other than circles. We firstly drained the system and blasted water through from various directions. No major things although a long period of white foamy stuff but it then dissappeared. Guess it was some old crud/limescale etc that got shifted due to high pressure hose. We filled system with water and no thermostat and ran it. Hose was bulging and could see bubbles and spray in expansion tank. Then quickly checked mates 300tdi to see what his did. Top hose also bulged very slightly and water did spray in tank. We then got his exhaust sniffer and held it over the expansion tank. No sign of exhaust gas so a bit promising. We decided to really strip cooling system to check all things and did find a plastic washer jammed in one of the inlet pipes. It had a very small hole so restricting flow. Whill we had it stripped, we also retapped the thermostat housing to take the old TD sender. Not ideal route as only really a pitch difference for the threads as similar diameter but it went in and a bit of loctite seems to have it fixed and sealed. We then stuck it all back together. Filled carefully without thermostat and ran it up. Checked against gauge and a laser temp gun and all seems to be okay. Pipe still bulges a little so it must be due to water flow rather than pressure build. Fan now cuts in correctly as well using the X-eng thermoswitch in the bottom hose. Based on this, we then stuck thermostat in and continued to test etc and it all seems to work fine. While on a high we got it down to the MOT man and he passed it straight off! Just an advisory for the OSF swivel bearing play! So after all that, not entirely sure what happened to the vehicle previously. Can only assume some restrictions in the system and an air lock somewhere. Perhaps without realising the, the fan fitted is so powerful it had really cooled the rad and bottom hose when I had it running a few minutes and that obviously then threw me with the concern of hot top hose, cold elsewhere. Anyway really chuffed with the outcome. Has highlighted the water pump is on its way out as moaning bearing and some play but that is easily resolved. I am now fully mobile for White90's event so hopefully see some of you there! Cheers for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 as far as i know exhaust sniffers dont work on diesels anyway, i think they sniff for the wrong thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 we also retapped the thermostat housing to take the old TD sender. Not ideal route as only really a pitch difference for the threads as similar diameter but it went in and a bit of loctite seems to have it fixed and sealed. you can swap the lower section for the Defender 200Tdi part --- ERR1499 [bolts & gasket are the same as for the Discovery version] & Transmitter PRC8593 & washer 90568054, these will work fine with your existing TD temp gauge, mine does Good to know the problem is fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 Glad its sorted, what a bugger of an air lock hey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 with the engine running hold the rad hose and rev the engine if you feel the hose buldge with the revsthe head gasket may be an issue, I'd think the rad could be blocked or the gauge/sender are unmatched and are misleading you May I refer you Dan to the last line of the above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 I use a chemical cylinder leak tester. It turns a different colour for diesel, but does them both. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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