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Waxoyl


royaub
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I've just been in a garage and had all the back end replaced. The guy recommended that I get it waxoyled and quoted me £200.

My questions are:

1) Is waxoyl any good?

2) would it work out cheaper doing it myself?

3) If waxoyl is no good can you recomend anything else?

4) The guy at the garage said something about him mixing 50% waxoyl with 50% oil; has anyone else heard of this before and is it any better than 100% waxoyl?

All opinions valued.

Thanks Roy

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1 Yes, it's also known as Croda fluid PX32 in HM Forces & used to protect steel fixings[bolt heads & nuts] on aircraft exposed areas like undercarriage legs/bays to prevent corrosion getting a hold

2 defintly cheaper to DIY

3 see 1

4 no need to mix it with oil, as it's got it in anyway hence the name, but thinning with white spirit for sraying on is OK, or warm it before use to allow it to flow more easily, just stand in a tub of really hot water or out in the sunshine before use.

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4) The guy at the garage said something about him mixing 50% waxoyl with 50% oil; has anyone else heard of this before and is it any better than 100% waxoyl?

This is probably a hang-over from pre-waxoyl times when it was common (particularly among farmers, my Dad tells me) to spray the used engine oil on the chassis at every oil change, as it was a cheap and slightly-more-effective-than-nothing way off slowing the rot. It is unbelievably messy and the resulting oil spill would have to be caught and disposed of properly these days (not just allowed to soak into the ground :ph34r:

Waxoyl has a higher melting point for a start, so its miles better.

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There's a garage down the road from me that mixes waxoyl with used engine oil. I've always suspected they do so not only to save money on waxoyl but also on disposal of the oil. Well worth doing it yourself and I've found the high pressure sprayer to be quite good. I does take an awful lot to do a whole vehicle, particuarly if you inject the chassis. If you search for Smith and Allen you'll find they do an own brand for about 2/3 the price of waxoyl.

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4) The guy at the garage said something about him mixing 50% waxoyl with 50% oil; has anyone else heard of this before and is it any better than 100% waxoyl?

I suppose you could use this as a way to thin it when spraying inside the cavities - would help it run into all the nooks and crannies better. I suppose the disadvantage is that it wont evaporate off like white spirit, thus leaving the waxoyl mix permanently thinned. It is still something i would consider though - my old engine and gearbox oil is in the garage waiting for me to decide what to do with it!

Regarding the cost, doing it yourself will be far cheaper - although i am certain that you cannot do the cavities effectivley with the 'extension' supplied by waxoyl in their kit - a long tube with a nail jammed in the end! I am planning on getting an air compressor (since i have just bought a plasma cutter) and will experiment with getting that to work with the waxoyl to get a good mist that i think will run down the inside of the chassis cavities and inside the bulkhead.

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I would not even consider putting old engine oil in the waxoyl - the mess is one thing, the smell and potential health and environmental damage another. Waxoyl itself if done on a warm day is ideal. From experience the Waxoyl injector kit is rubbish, you need a proper compressor, even a very small one is ideal. You need two of the big cans and when at it do the innards of the bulkhead as well. Be prepared for a week or two of really stinky cab until the vapours subside.

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I was going to suggest asking HFH and IIRC I still have a copy of his advice!

Seriously though the waxoyl high pressure applicator works well for me, go down to argos and get a cheap slowcooker to put the container in, its keeps the temp of the waxoyl nice and high. A word to the wise, hot waxoyl is not nice stuff, wear goggles and mind the cat!

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Please dispose of old engine (or any other) oil properly - at the council tip there will be a big manky tank for you to pour it into.

A compressor-fed Schutz gun works very well and doesn't seem to require the Waxoyl to be thinned, just warmed a little in cold (uk) conditions. I tend to warm the large can of Waxoyl to make it easier to mix in the thick stuff at the bottom which 'settles' a little, and easier to pour, not for ease of spraying which is fine with it cold (normal UK temps). I also find that the drips/fumes/overspray is far worse when using hot or thinned Waxoyl and so tend to avoid it nowadays although I used to always apply it like that in the past, more to make it go further than anything which I now see as a false economy.

Sorry that's a bit rambling..

Roger

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Well, this thread prompted me to actually get of my backside and go and waxoyl my 110.

I've been meaning to do it for ages but some how just kept putting it off.

I did my first 90 using one of the waxoyl sprayers. It was a real pain.

For the second 90, I bought a professional cavity wax injector kit from rust.co.uk.

Well worth the money and has now been leant out to most of my mates.

It runs off a compressor and atomises the wayoyl, rather than just spray it about a bit.

When you spray the rear of the chassis you can actually see the mist coming out of the front.

Anyway, all done now - and I have now remembered why I was putting the job off

It's a horrid job!

I didn't have any access to a ramp, a jack or any axle stands (just like last time) so did it all just laying on the deck.

Spraying into the cavaties was very satisfying and actually quite enjoyable.

You get a good sense of satisfaction knowing you've managed to get to all the usual grot traps and rust prone areas.

Spraying the rest of the chassis was a horrible cramped experience.

On the up side, I do now have a very well waxoyled 110 and a waterproof head!

Edited to add: I used a 30% white spirit/waxoyl mix.

Edited by Se7enUp
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The good news is that there are now a number of small waxy puddles under the 110 so the Waxoly is obviously doing it's thing.

And after 5 hours of laying on my back under the 110 yesterday, I awoke this morning not being able to move my neck.

Land Rovers, don't you just love them!

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Is that croda fluid sort of black/brown rather than clear? Smells a bit of dry cleaning fluid (apparently the tri-corethelene added as a fire retardent) and Dries sort of crinkley ?

If so I have a few hundred litres that came out of a tank that needed to be moved. :ph34r: More than even I will need for my fleet of rustbuckets

bring your own cans as the ones I've got cost more than the contents :angry:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I found a cheap slow cooker (£4 from ASDA) is great. Pop the tin of waxoyl in it add some water to the bowl of the cooker, switch on for 30mins. Take outside and use a long extension lead to keep the cooker on low heat whilst spraying.

It mists perfectly from the high pressure sprayer and gives an even, almost foamy, covering.

Even works on colder days :)

No need to thin it at all. If you're thinning it I'd suggest that it's not warm enough.

Enjoy :D

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