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Hydraulic Pumps - Log splitter


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You're confusing scary and cynical :P

:lol:

FWIW we made a log splitter from a scrap Coventry Climax forklift. Cut the ends off the forks, weld the pointy ends to a fixed frame and place the wood on the newly stubby arms. I think it is a two ton lift and it will split pretty much anything, well it does since we wound the pressure up. We can split three foot length tree rounds of any wood we have tried.

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From what I can gather the crank drive option is easy on a 200TDI but not a 300. Having looked under there again last night there is only about 4 inches between the rad and the engine block which leaves hardly any room to mount anything, I even looked to see if I could graft a gear or another pulley onto the end of the crank but there is very little clearance between the pulley and the fan (Yes I know I could go electric but went back to the viscous for reliablity after a few issues with Kenlowe units). I even wondered if I could stick a very small shaft on the crank and send it out the front under the rad, but I think this may be too vulnerable for off roading and will create a whole new list of problems for winch mounting.

I could use a different rad as you say so maybe I'll look into this a bit more thanks for your help.

As Si said on the previous page, RED winches do a toothed belt drive for the 300Tdi to mount the hydraulic pump where the A/C goes using a replacement crank pulley, there is enough space to get a group three pump under the bonnet of a Defender if you need silly flow rates, if you need any more info on this please let me know.

Not sure what you use your air for, could you not use a SCUBA tank or even one of the high flow 12v compressors ?

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I would ignore chain cos it is just too damn scarey...

Si

How about a chain driven pump mounted somewhere on the side of the engine block - either below the injection pump,or below the alternator.Without a 300 infront of me I couldn't be sure of how much room there is.

I have been through various setups to drive my hydraulic winch(zf steering pump,pto,and poly v-belt),and was always dubious about chain drives until,though necessity,I was forced to try it(no room for direct end-of-crank drive).

I was re-assured by talking to Jez Goodwin,who said that he would happily go back to chain drive if space constraints required it,and John Sales,who has fitted a chain driven pump to his new racer(John sells an excellent little sprocket adapter for the 300tdi),and by the fact that motor cycles run relatively big horse power through chains all day,every day with great reliability.

Anyway,I am recently back from the Munster 4x4 Mid-Summer Madness,where my chain of death was first properly tested,and I would now recommend it to anyone.

End of the crank drive is,perhaps,the ideal way,but if you haven't got room,a chain will do the job for you.

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there is nothing wrong with chain drive - dont let scrapheap challenge and all the other chain fiascos put you off.

the secret to chain drive is the alignment of the sprockets and making sure there is sufficient chain engagement through either distance between sprockets or running simillar size sprockets.

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It doesn't care any more than any other moving part of your car does.

.

I used to work with these things, and I asked about the lack of lubrication. They'd tried it and the grease just attracted stone dust and wore the links out in about 20 hours running. Unlubricated they last about 500 hours and that's cutting through granite / topsoil.

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How about a chain driven pump mounted somewhere on the side of the engine block - either below the injection pump,or below the alternator.Without a 300 infront of me I couldn't be sure of how much room there is.

I have been through various setups to drive my hydraulic winch(zf steering pump,pto,and poly v-belt),and was always dubious about chain drives until,though necessity,I was forced to try it(no room for direct end-of-crank drive).

I was re-assured by talking to Jez Goodwin,who said that he would happily go back to chain drive if space constraints required it,and John Sales,who has fitted a chain driven pump to his new racer(John sells an excellent little sprocket adapter for the 300tdi),and by the fact that motor cycles run relatively big horse power through chains all day,every day with great reliability.

Anyway,I am recently back from the Munster 4x4 Mid-Summer Madness,where my chain of death was first properly tested,and I would now recommend it to anyone.

End of the crank drive is,perhaps,the ideal way,but if you haven't got room,a chain will do the job for you.

Wow! Thanks for your input I had finally come to the same conclusion after starting this post and was looking at underneath the alternator as the steering box and injector pump limits space on the other side. I need to do some measuring just to check the clearance so that the exhaust manifold is not going to melt all the seals in the pump. The idea was to use a motorbike chain and sprockets (obviously same size sprockets) on the end of the crank pulley and the pump. I reckon if it can handle a 1300 Hyabusa without issues it should be ok :).

A mate has a scrap crank pulley from a 300 that I've bagged to experiment with but does the adapter you mention John Sales sells get me round this problem by adapting a standard pulley and adding a sprocket drive? I appreciate that your install will be dfferent to the idea above but have you got any pics you could post anyway please?

For the amount it will get used in the mud I don't think chains not lasting long would be too much of an issue I'd just have to replace them at the first sign of wear. The only problem I could see is if the chain lets go it's going to cause much more damage than a rubber belt, but as I say I've not heard of any problems on motorbikes and their chains must wizz round at a fair speed when a bikes doing 100mph.

The other idea I had was to use an Audi bolt on timing belt pulley on the crank pulley and a toothed belt to the electric clutch people have mentioned earlier in the thread and again mount it under the alternator, this option I would think is probably a shorter option but I'm not sure if I would be slightly limited on the pump size the belt would drive. I suppose it would be a case of try and see!

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As Si said on the previous page, RED winches do a toothed belt drive for the 300Tdi to mount the hydraulic pump where the A/C goes using a replacement crank pulley, there is enough space to get a group three pump under the bonnet of a Defender if you need silly flow rates, if you need any more info on this please let me know.

Not sure what you use your air for, could you not use a SCUBA tank or even one of the high flow 12v compressors ?

How about a hydraulic motor to drive the aircon compressor :-)

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does the adapter you mention John Sales sells get me round this problem by adapting a standard pulley and adding a sprocket drive?

Why not ask him or look on his website? :rolleyes:

The only problem I could see is if the chain lets go it's going to cause much more damage than a rubber belt

Or it could just fall limply on the floor like they do.

The other idea I had was to use an Audi bolt on timing belt pulley on the crank pulley and a toothed belt to the electric clutch people have mentioned earlier

Only if your alignment is very very good, the runout on toothed belts is b*gger all compared to chains.

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does the adapter you mention John Sales sells get me round this problem by adapting a standard pulley and adding a sprocket drive?

Why not ask him or look on his website? :rolleyes:

Have you a link to his website?

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John Sales' adapter bolts to the centre of thr crank pulley using the four tapped holes that are already in it.

It has a 20mm parallel keyed shaft on the end,designed to take a taperlock bush and then a taperlock sprocket - couldn't be simpler!

Bushes,sprockets and chains are dirt cheap from any industrial driveline supplier - but I got very good service from 'the bearing boys' - try Google.

I actually run a 530 o-ring motor cycle chain now,but it is probably overkill - you could buy eight industrial chains for the same price.

I will try to get a photo,if I can borrow a camera.

However you mount the pump,you will need some way to adjust out the slack,as all chains stretch a little with use.

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It was only a guess - generally these days if something is for sale it's online somewhere, and it's generally considered decent netiquette to at least try googling something before asking 20 questions on forums :rolleyes:

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  • 4 months later...

Got bored with Christmas day already so I thought I would have a nosey on here, anyway not sure how far your project has gone but I have built a log splitter that is powered off my Defender, I bought the full hydraulic kit off a electric board landrover. It included tank hoses cooler rad, spool valves winch etc etc. The pump is direct onto the transfer box and has a flow of 33.6 lts per min at 2500 psi and combined wth a 2" ram puts out a serious amount of force, I have not had a refusal when splitting logs. When the ram is working an a tough piece of wood it slowes the engine a fraction as the resistance builds up so i would imagine a belt would slip. My kit works really well and I now advertise my splitting services. Have a nosey here, only a free website but it works for my needs. click on the photobucket links in the services section. http://www.bobs-logs.co.uk/ or look below at the links

The splitter

Here is the splitter in the build/welding

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b350/bobbd6543/RobsNokia200910234.jpg

Here is the splitter ready for the pipework.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b350/bobbd6543/RobsNokia200910250.jpg

The result of 40 mins very easy splitting, and the splitter makes a good holder for cutting with the saw, just apply a bit of pressure and it holds it solid

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b350/bobbd6543/RobsNokia200910252.jpg

Winching with the landy

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b350/bobbd6543/RobsNokia200910230.jpg

The system plugs direct into the hydraulic dry break connectors mounted on the front bumper of the Landrover

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b350/bobbd6543/Drybreakconnectors.jpg

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b350/bobbd6543/Sameas.jpg

Any question please ask and I will share my experiences during the build with you.

Ps Neil " http://www.log-rover.co.uk/ " was a great help with the build

ATB Bob

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Bobbd,

Some questions if I may? I'm in the process of doing a similar build but I'm having to make the tank and hydraulic hoses etc from scratch.

How is the plumbing routed around the vehicle? Is it all in flexible pipe or is some of it in metal piping? It took me the best part of a week to make fixed pipes which go to the flat face connector pairs (mine are one set under the front bumper and another pair under the rear cross member). Getting them round the axles was a real PIA.

Where is the oil tank located, and what about a relief valve and filter?

How necessary is the oil cooler? Where on the vehicle is it located and how is the oil circulated through it?

You said your pump has a flow of 33.6l/min at 2500psi. Did you mean 2500 rpm? If not, what is the volume of the pump (cc/rev)?

Regards

Nick.

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<br />Hi, have you resolved you problem? I may be able to offer you a solution, but if its done, no probs. Best regards, Bill Westley<br />
<br /><br /><br />

no I haven't solved the issue yet. I have come to the conclusion I either need to move the air con pump or get a pto unit as above so happy to hear any other ideas thanks.

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Got bored with Christmas day already so I thought I would have a nosey on here, anyway not sure how far your project has gone but I have built a log splitter that is powered off my Defender, I bought the full hydraulic kit off a electric board landrover. It included tank hoses cooler rad, spool valves winch etc etc. The pump is direct onto the transfer box and has a flow of 33.6 lts per min at 2500 psi and combined wth a 2" ram puts out a serious amount of force, I have not had a refusal when splitting logs. When the ram is working an a tough piece of wood it slowes the engine a fraction as the resistance builds up so i would imagine a belt would slip. My kit works really well and I now advertise my splitting services. Have a nosey here, only a free website but it works for my needs. click on the photobucket links in the services section. http://www.bobs-logs.co.uk/ or look below at the links

The splitter

Here is the splitter in the build/welding

http://i22.photobuck...ia200910234.jpg

Here is the splitter ready for the pipework.

http://i22.photobuck...ia200910250.jpg

The result of 40 mins very easy splitting, and the splitter makes a good holder for cutting with the saw, just apply a bit of pressure and it holds it solid

http://i22.photobuck...ia200910252.jpg

Winching with the landy

http://i22.photobuck...ia200910230.jpg

The system plugs direct into the hydraulic dry break connectors mounted on the front bumper of the Landrover

http://i22.photobuck...kconnectors.jpg

http://i22.photobuck...6543/Sameas.jpg

Any question please ask and I will share my experiences during the build with you.

Ps Neil " http://www.log-rover.co.uk/ " was a great help with the build

ATB Bob

A nice build of the log splitter thanks for sharing your info. What sort of time does it take to fully extend and retract the ram?

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Bobbd,

Some questions if I may? I'm in the process of doing a similar build but I'm having to make the tank and hydraulic hoses etc from scratch.

How is the plumbing routed around the vehicle? Is it all in flexible pipe or is some of it in metal piping? It took me the best part of a week to make fixed pipes which go to the flat face connector pairs (mine are one set under the front bumper and another pair under the rear cross member). Getting them round the axles was a real PIA.

Where is the oil tank located, and what about a relief valve and filter?

How necessary is the oil cooler? Where on the vehicle is it located and how is the oil circulated through it?

You said your pump has a flow of 33.6l/min at 2500psi. Did you mean 2500 rpm? If not, what is the volume of the pump (cc/rev)?

Regards

Nick.

Hello Nick, the pipework is all flexible and runs along the inside of the chassis, the oil tank is in the back behind the drivers seat and the filter is located on the tank top under a large screw cap, it was a full kit off a electric board 110 Defender but mine is a 90 so I could not locate the tank under the drivers seat so it went in the back. The cooler is behind the front grill in front of the radiator and I have fitted a electric fan that I switch on when splitting/winching this keeps the engine and hydraulic oil cool and I run it for 1-2 hour stints with no problem at all, I think it would keep going till it ran out of diesel. The oil cooler is plumbed into the suction side of the system and the engine speed is set at 1500rpm when running the splitter and it operates at 2500psi at 33.6lpm.

HTH, Bob

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A nice build of the log splitter thanks for sharing your info. What sort of time does it take to fully extend and retract the ram?

Its about 3 seconds for 500mm travel out and the same back, its a nice speed and with it being a double acting ram you just back it off so you can get your next one in. The angle of the wedge seems to be the thing as you dont need to drive it home before it splits unless its nasty twisted stuff but its not been beaten yet, very happy with performance.

HTH, Bob

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  • 6 months later...

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