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Door Hinge Istalation

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To me this is an easy job.... I suggest to upgrade to the later type hinge as fitted to Td5 Defenders. Use standard bolts and not stainless steel ones. The stainless steel bolts will make your hinges rust badly (I did take them off). Use copper grease to fit the bolts.



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I got the same ones from RJ Landrovers, I personally don't think they're new though. Still, they were cheap.

I got some stainless screws off eBay, allen-headed ones, but as stainless is basically as strong as cheese, the allen heads just rounded off on application of a decent torque.

Suffice to say they will be replaced with standard steel torx-headed screws, as per the later Defenders.

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"I got the same ones from RJ Landrovers, I personally don't think they're new though. Still, they were cheap."

I don't think they are brand-new, I believe the are new/take off which means they were fitted in the factory and then immediately removed hence they can't be packaged and sold as brand-new. I great way to buy new genuine parts at excellent prices which I have done for years (luckily I live just down the road from Nick Evans who has the contarct with LR and gets all their stuff and then sells it on to the likes of Craddocks etc).

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If the advert says new/genuine and you suspect they have supplied anything other than that then you need to take it up with them, no way should you be supplied with anything other than what they advertised and if they are allowed to get away with it then they will keep doing it.

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very easy to do, especially if you only swap the bottom hinges .

if you have worn hinges where the door drops a fair bit its probably only the lower hinges that are worn badly , you can just replace the lower hinges and it will tighten things up no end .

you need an impact driver to easily undo the screws holding the hinges in place that are screwed to the bulkhead pillar .

on the door if you look around the back of the hinge youll see the 2x 1/2" unf nuts in gaps in the back of the door card plastic, they should be clearly visible , to remove the hinge from the door you only need to prise the bottom of door card away and then you can get a 1/2" spanner onto the nuts and undo them , allowing the screws [bolts] to slip out .

on the bulkhead pillar you will need to use an impact driver to start the screws coming loose , then once they are moving you should be able to unscrew them easy enough , make sure you pick the tightest fitting crosshead bit for the impact driver so it grips properly .

the hinge screws at front of hinge are screwed into some clips that have the nuts in them and they are clipped into a slot in the pillar , the clips are installed from outside of the vehicle so you dont have to worry about trying to get down inside the inner wing panels or anything like that ,its not a problem if you have to drill these screws out at all because the new mounting clips just clip into the slot by hand and you cant mess it up to be honest .

once the hinge is removed youll see the long slot at the front mounting point along with the clips hidden behind , there are also some plastic sandwich plates in between .

top hinge is mounted similar way , the mirror bolts on from the back of it .

to adjust door height etc you just slide the door/hinge combination up or down in conjunction with door whilst screws are slackened , then tighten whilst door is fixed in position .

best to remove hinges one at a time .

leave door shut when undoing bulkhead pillar screws .

when you install new hinge , bolt it to door first and close door, then screw the front screws in place and you can open and adjust door etc without it falling off .

use some copper anti sieze compound on all screws when assembling .

usually the new hinges are supplied as bare steel , so you need some etch primer to prime them and then something for top coat .

many hinge kits include screws and spacers and nuts/clips .

you can buy from any landy parts suppliers or they are available from ebay .

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