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alloys on earlier axles


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Yes, you can change the drive flange/hub. But you'll also need to change:

Stub Axle

Swivel Housing

Swivel Ball

CV/Halfshaft

As it all changed when the Defenders had their axle design change in 1994 (when discs went on the back).

I've just changed one side of my 110's axle back from the later setup that a P.O. had retro-fitted.

If you fancy going down that road let me know, as I need rid of the bits :P

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Yes, you can change the drive flange/hub. But you'll also need to change:

Stub Axle

Swivel Housing

Swivel Ball

CV/Halfshaft

As it all changed when the Defenders had their axle design change in 1994 (when discs went on the back).

I've just changed one side of my 110's axle back from the later setup that a P.O. had retro-fitted.

If you fancy going down that road let me know, as I need rid of the bits :P

There is an ebay shop selling steel sheet spacers that allow the alloy to fit over the hub without any machining (about £18 per pair). I used the centres from some scrap brake drums to do the same thing. I would urge you to fit the longer Wolf wheel studs, though, otherwise the wheel nuts might strip their threads. Unfortunately, you still won't be able to fit wheels' centre caps as the hubs' plastic cones will protrude through the centre of the wheel. If you fit the after-market HD drive flanges with the centre nut instead of cone, then I think it'd look just as good and will give you the strongest and most wear resistant shafts and flanges - the shorter hubbed and thinner flanged late axles suffer much more rapid wear of wheel bearings (because they are closer together) and spline wear of shafts and flanges (dry joint and smaller contact area). Old axles with the HD flanges would be stronger and much longer lasting.

The net increase in wheel track will be invisible at under 1/2" total, and you don't need to worry about mud and stones being thrown up the side of the body or increased bearing and steering loads like 30mm spacers would do.

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