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Clutch Replacement. 130 or 110 in my 110


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Is there any point in getting a 130 clutch in my 110 for my overland? What else should i do whilst i'm in there?

Are there any seals, bearing or other that can be done whilst the two large lumps of metal are apart. As you may know, if its worth doing now i will do it! So a list of jobs that could be done would be appreciated. Go wild with ideas, please. Should i get Valeo, AP or Borg? Whatever you think?

This is what i can find from Google and bit of research. No idea what some of it is....... :ph34r:

Clutch master cylinder

Clutch slave Cylinder

Clutch Cover, Plate and bearing.

Clutch fork, modified

Crank Seal

Spigot Bearing (does it come with/attached the clutch)?

Anything else even if its not related to the clutch.

Thanks as always....

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Clutch master cylinder.............. don;t bother, its on the putside and can easily be changed if need be......

Clutch slave Cylinder............. again, on the outside so no need.........

Clutch Cover, Plate and bearing....YES

Clutch fork, modified.....Yes

Crank Seal.....YES

Spigot Bearing (does it come with/attached the clutch)?....Yes if not in clutch kit.....................

Anything else even if its not related to the clutch.

....Yes if not in clutch kit.....................

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Ralph (or anyone) can you help me out.

The Valeo HD Kit is STC8358HD which i can buy of mailorder4x4.

I can get myself an normal fork and weld on some plate as per Les's tut.

The crank seal, Spigot bearing and Gearbox input shaft seal part number or page numbers would be good. I don't know where to look!

I presume the can all be done easily and at the same time?

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Yes to clutch fork, just have it modded as per Les's thread. also wrap a cable tie around the slave cylinder pushrod black clip with the rod fitted, it'll stop the rod falling out.

gearbox input shaft front seal page 338,item 2

clutch fork page 329, item 4

crank rear oil seal page 213, item 15

spigot bush page215 item 2

the clutch kit will be fine for your vehicle.

Edited by western
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I can't find the crankshaft seal. Can find every model but the defender 300tdi. Help!

thanks a million to everyone.

I'm actually trying to arrange to do this at a garage so I can use their gear. so i need to make sure i've got everything.

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you mean item 15 don't you?

the current part is after my chassi number its WA on.

LUF100430

the number from the parts page is in the superseded list prefixed S/S in the lower left of the LRSeries web page, LR are updating part numbers to a 9 digit fomat.

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...This is what i can find from Google and bit of research. No idea what some of it is....... :ph34r:

Clutch master cylinder

Clutch slave Cylinder

Clutch Cover, Plate and bearing.

Clutch fork, modified

Crank Seal

Spigot Bearing (does it come with/attached the clutch)?

....

As you confessed to no idea what some of that is I add the following comments:

The master cylinder is the hydraulic cylinder that is connected by a push rod to your clutch pedal.

The slave cylinder is the hydraulic cylinder that is connected by steel tubing and flexible hose to the master cylinder and is linked to the clutch fork by a push rod.

The clutch cover is one part of the actual clutch. It connects by bolts to the flywheel and contains the pressure plate and spring.

The clutch plate is the second part of the actual clutch. It connects to the gearbox by the splined hub and has friction material on both sides. It is clamped between the pressure plate and the flywheel so that it can transmit the torque between the engine and gearbox. The clutch plate employs springs to absorb shock loads when the clutch is engaged.

The bearing (also called throwout bearing) is the thrust bearing assembly that is pressed against the spring of the clutch cover to release the clamping force from the clutch plate.

The clutch fork connects to a pivot in the gearbox bell housing, the throwout bearing and the rod from the slave cylinder. It transfers the force/motion from the slave cylinder (originating from drivers foot on clutch pedal) to the throwout bearing and spring in clutch cover. The pressed metal forks used with 300Tdi's have a habit of wearing and cracking in the region of the pivot seat. Examine your fork for wear and any sign of cracking in this area and replace if necessary (or for peace of mind). I'm not convinced that welding reinforcement to the fork leads to better life or durability over a new fork (IMHO they are a poor design from Land Rover to save pennies, but welding brings it's own risks/weaknesses to the material integrity). Lubricate the pivot surfaces with Moly grease at assembly.

Crank seal has been covered sufficiently in posts above.

Spigot bearing is a bearing fitted into the rear of the crankshaft to support the end of the gearbox input shaft. When you come to fit the clutch cover, you must ensure that the clutch plate is maintained in alignment concentric with the spigot bearing - the tool for this fits neatly through the clutch plate into the spigot bearing. Otherwise you wont be able to fit the gearbox to the engine if the clutch plate is off centre.

You should check the surface of the flywheel for wear from the cluch plate - have it re-surfaced if necessary.

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Thanks Bush65...hopefully we'll see you in NSW in my 110 if they ever let me in,,,, once its been Jet Washed, Steam Cleaned and basically ripped apart by your customs nazis. Might be a year or two but hopefully the new clutch will still be operational.

Thanks all.

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Thanks Bush65...hopefully we'll see you in NSW in my 110 if they ever let me in,,,, once its been Jet Washed, Steam Cleaned and basically ripped apart by your customs nazis. Might be a year or two but hopefully the new clutch will still be operational.

Thanks all.

You mentioned an overland trip at the top of the thread and now a year or two - are you planning to drive the 110 out here over that period? Other who have done similar seem to enjoy the adventure/experience. Some friends of mine recently shipped their vehicles from here to Korea then drove/ferried through Asia, Central Asia, Russia and Europe, then shipped the vehicles back to Aus.

I will be selling up and moving to QLD (before end of this year, hopefully). I like to make long 4WD trips that take me to remote places in other states and could get back to populated parts of NSW from time to time.

As you seem inclined to travel, if you enjoy our outback in your 110 (it gets you hooked), there are more places to visit here than many people can manage in their lifetime - so many places are only practical in certain seasons (central and northern parts in winter) and for working folk, getting 8+ weeks off for the big trips is often only possible by accumulating leave over a period of years.

I recently acquired a 120 - Land Rover called it a 110 Tray Top, but they are known as a 120 because of the wheel base - that I'm preparing for my future trips. It needs some TLC on the body and interior, but they had the best engine ever fitted by Land Rover for this type of use, particularly in remote areas.

As you are hoping to come here with your 110, you might like to join the Australian Land Rover Owners

Good luck with the clutch, 110, overland trip and getting to Aus.

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Thanks to a forum member (again) i've found a reputable guy for £150 + Parts. I'm supplying the parts and he'll do the work in his garage. So it looks like i'll be going on little trip at the end of the month.

Now i just need to replace the brake master cyl, do the hoses and renovate the calipers, change the brake vac pump, change timing belt, water pump gasket and fuel spill rails. Should be able to do that in the next week or so.

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if the brakes are working fine, I'd leave the master cylinder as it is, replacing the flexible brake hoses with Goodridge hoses is worthwhil, brakes will feel better,

if the vacuum pump is wirking leave that to, it does get a oil feed from the engine, so shouldn't need any attention, plus a 300Tdi Vac pump is not stricly a user serviceable part [though it can be done]

timing belt, water pump gaskets & spill rail hose are worth doing.

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thanks western. I've got all new OEM parts for the swap outs and were keeping the removed items as spares. I have the hoses but also need to get myself some pipe, flaring tool and fittings as the rear section needs doing. I might just get the guy in the garge to do it for me. As i mentioned i replaced the servo and master last week and my brakes now work. The old servo was split which Mike spotted :o I knew it was knackered but never spotted the crack.

Is there any point in replacing the slave and push rod whilst we're in the clutch as they aren't expensive?

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if you've changed the clutch master cylinder, it would be worth changing the slave cylinder, the pushrod should be OK to reuse, they don't normaly give any problem, just measure a new one against the existing one, most liely there will be very little wear on the existing item.

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  • 8 years later...

Very useful thread - got some inspiring actions from it since I also wanted to change the clutch fork and the bearing with HD ones since they are likely to fail and I wouldn't want that to be the case whilst I am driving in the middle of nowhere in Mali 😅

I guess that whilst I am at it I'd change the other various components of the clutch as Neil did. Since I have the 200 TDI/LT77 I'd post here a couple of questions on the 'in-doubt' items:

1) This video (link) is extremely useful to understand how to replace effectively the spigot bush - is it needed to take it out as in the video or it can be done in-situ? Looking at retroanaconda the part number for 200 TDI is 8566L. Is this the same irrespective if it's a Disco or Defender 200 TDI I'd assume??

2) Gearbox input shaft front seal page 310,item 2 which in the LT77 is UKC1060L - is this the only piece of the mainshaft to be swapped as part of this clutch refresh exercise?

3) I can't find a  200TDI alternative for the crank rear oil seal which for the 300 TDI is page 213, item 15 - is there another piece that should be changed if not this one?

And lastly:

4) what tools shall I buy to do this piece of work besides the usual spanners, etc.. ? Is an clutch alignment tool (DA6113) actually needed or it can be sorted without it?

5) Anyone has the manual of a LT77 that says what grease to use on on the various parts of the clutch fork/etc... I hear (here) that each gearbox will be having its specific grease to be used..

6) What is the benefit of STC8358HD over the standard one?

many thanks!

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