rear prop shaft

[sharpy]

Hi all,

whilst I have been under the landy again trying to muddle my way through I have noticed that I have 3 problems

1. I cant get the nuts to part company from the bolts that hold it on to the transmission brake, is it ok to grind them off and are replacement nuts/bolts avaliable? or will standard off the hardware store shelf ones do the job?

2. looing at pictures of rear props, suprise, suprise, mine looks different (I think once Jack got fed up of building houses he had a go at my landy?)my prop doesnt have the sliding part that I see here http://www.landroverweb.com/Propshaft/land-rover-propshaft-1.htm in fact It seems to have a lovely weld? I suspect this explains my clunk when moving through the gears as there is no damping affect?

3. the reason for wanting to take off the prop is that the rod that works the handbrake seems to have come away somewhere inside the transmission housing so I need to get in to inspect.

Any ideas on any of the above most welcome, also im interested in hearing about the safety aspect of being under the truck whilst doing this, my drive slopes at approx 25 degrees, obviously no handbrake, its in gear and a brick under each wheel, but im a bit paranoid

Cheers

Paul

[western]

if the nuts won't come off, then either cut the bolt shank or split the nuts & replace bolts & nuts

your rear prop maybe siezed in the retracted position

the trans brake rod at the drum is meant to be slack in it's housing the expander should be able to slide up/down & the rod should have something like 10mm of in/out movemant.

[Bush65]

The prop shaft must have a slip joint because the length between front and rear flanges must be able to change as the axle/suspension moves up/down. It also needs to be shorter to be able to fit/remove from the vehicle.

If someone has done a bodge repair and welded the slip joint , then you are up for a replacement prop shaft.

The slip joint is not there to dampen torque impulses. There are several defects that can result in a clunk, e.g. worn uni-joints, worn slip joint, loose flange bolts, worn ball joint on 'A' frame, worn suspension bushes, worn bearings/gears in diff or transfer case.

[FridgeFreezer]

I'd buy a proper LR propshaft nut tool, makes the job much easier. The drum end bolts being captive I think you'd have to remove the transfer box output flange to replace the bolts so I'd avoid getting happy with the electric spanner if you can. Buy a handfull of new nuts & bolts for the prop, they're pennies for the proper thing and it never hurts to have a vehicle set kicking about.

A welded up rear prop is unlikely to cause a clunk, in fact it may have been welded to remove a clunk, but it's best to sort one thing at a time otherwise you never know what fixed it.

To stop it rolling away, engage the centre diff lock, low range 1st gear would give maximum stoppingness but normal 1st is probably sufficient.

[sharpy]

your rear prop maybe siezed in the retracted position

the trans brake rod at the drum is meant to be slack in it's housing the expander should be able to slide up/down & the rod should have something like 10mm of in/out movemant.

thanks for the ideas so far, Western you suggest the movement of the rod in the transmission drum should be 10mm, mine will move 20-30mm in any direction, when the handbrake cable is off it will just flop about, also further to this the handbrake doesnt work, even when adjusted fully, so something must have come adrift in there?

Paul

[Maverik]

Handbrake assembly:

[FridgeFreezer]

Oh and you might want to claim forum discount on an X-brake if you're in an upgrading kinda mood.

[western]

thanks for the ideas so far, Western you suggest the movement of the rod in the transmission drum should be 10mm, mine will move 20-30mm in any direction, when the handbrake cable is off it will just flop about, also further to this the handbrake doesnt work, even when adjusted fully, so something must have come adrift in there?

Paul

my guess on distance the rod moves was just a gues, a bit low, there's nothing missing in your drum brake, looks all intact to me.

if it's not working at all, shift the rubber gaiter clear 7 look at the handbrake lever end of the cable, it might have pulled out of the end fitting or the cable has frayed & broken.