Troddenmasses Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Hello, I have purchased a second hand pas box from one of the forum members (Thank you very very much - you know who you are), and need to fit this to my 90 this weekend. Has anybody got any experience of this - just wondering how difficult a job it is. I am guessing: Drain fluid Disconnect sterering UJ Disconnect drop arm Disconnect it from the chassis Same again in reverse for the new one. A couple of questions - does anybody know whether you can get hold of seal kits for the pas boxes or the pas pumps? I'm not sure whether the box that I have bought leaks or not, but whilst it's on the bench, it might as well get done. The pas pump is now getting beyond a joke - the patch of hydraulic fluid on the drive is getting bigger by the day now. Cheers, Keir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 the bolts holding the box to the chassis were 'king tight on mine. you'll need new lock plates for the bolts unless you're happy flattening and re-using the old ones, i just replaced them for the few pence they are. removing the drop arm could be easier with the box off, it depends what tools you've got. lining up the new box onto the bolts is a bit of a hassle, as it doesnt sit right on the chassis rail. think you can get new seal kits from the likes of paddocks etc. steering UJ's dont just need slackening off, the bolt has to come out, it took me a couple of goes pulling it off to realise, d'oh. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 I did this job on a 90 a while ago. Took pictures too, but quite a few didn't come out. I'll try to be as descriptive as possible to compensate. What one looks like! The steering coupling has three pinch bolts - two close to the steering box itself, and one up near the bulkhead. Remove all three and then tap the rod towards the bulkhead until it clears the steering box and then tie it out of the way or remove it completely. There's no real way of draining the complete system, so this is a messy job. If you are going to rebuild/return the old unit, then clean around the pipes before undoing them. If I remember correctly they are different size threads, so you don't connect them wrongly. Steering linkage next (this one needs replacing as well). Undo 19mm nut, then sharp whack on the drop arm with a hammer and the ball joint/rod should seperate. There's a cast iron support bracket that you can see in the picture above - two nuts/bolts hold the bracket to the base of the steering box (17mm I think), and the single nut is 19mm. Undo and remove all three, the arm will come off. All that's now holding the steering box to the vehicle are 4 x 17mm nuts/bolts that pass through the chassis. Bend back the lock tabs, completely remove three bolts and remove the nut on the last one. From underneath the vehicle, take the weight of the steering box with one hand, withdraw the final bolt, and remove the steering box from underneath. Be careful when reconnecting the pipes - it's very easy to strip the threads. The drop arm can sometimes be murder to get off, and it can be easier to remove it with the steering box off the vehicle, as access to it is very restricted. The steering coupling has flats that have to be lined-up with the pinch bolt holes, so a bit of trial and error here. You may find that the steering wheel is out of centre, so that will probably have to be removed as well once the rest of the job is done. Don't use old oil, ATF is fairly cheap and the old oil may be contaminated with grit/metal particles. These units are very heavy, so be careful not to drop it on yourself. There's two types of seal kit - the drop arm seal kit is around £12, and a re-build kit, which is £30-odd quid. This is the shaft seal kit. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 very good Les, i've just got one little tip to add.. you might find that lining the threads up when refitting the pipes is realy difficult, if so, loosen the four bolts holding the box to the chassis, you can then 'wiggle' the box around to line the threads up, they are also a bugger to get at and tighten, because you cant get a proper spanner in there, we bent a spanner in order to get it in there, but if you have, or can borrow a set of crows foot spanners you'll find it easier... if you've got a mate who's up for helping you its a lot easier, but providing nothing goes wrong its an easy half day job. oh, and remove the wheel on that side, its not vital but makes things easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Any tips on bleeding the system? I've just done mine on the 90 after fitting, all pre-used parts which will have had some ATF in the box and pump. Book says 2.9 litre capacity but mine took less than 1 litre, I didn't think there was that much ATF left in there I undid the bleed nipple on top of the box and with the engine running topped up the reserviour, jiggled the steering about a bit and stopped when I'd had a reasonable bit of fresh ATF out of the nipple without any air in it. Seems to work ok but haven't driven it yet so don't know if it has 'lumpy bits'. If it seems lumpy when driven I'll bleed it again, just wondering if there's any tricks to it as I didn't seem to get much fluid in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 If there's still air in the system, then it wouldn't make the steering lumpy - 'squishy' normally. 2.9 litres is a lot of fluid - 1/2 gallon in old money. I usually start the engine, and while ticking over -turn the steering lock-to-lock. Check level and top -up. Then open bleed nipple to expel air. You could do this twice, but I have never had to. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Sounds like I'm doing it right then. Will see how it goes when driven and maybe bleed again if necessary. Couldn't get any more out yesterday when bleeding it, just was expecting it to take more fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgnas Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 I did this as a one man job. The box is HEAVY to lift one handed from below. I stuck a long but thin screwdriver through on of the holes in the chassis rail and threaded the pump onto that. Much easier tha trying to get the first bolt lined up into the thread! Left all fitting bolts loose to allow some jiggling for connecting pipes and ujs before fully fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chalkie52 Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 A landrover mechanic told me to squeeze all the bubbles out by giving the steering 3 turns to the left and right on the spot, lock to lock... I normally have to just lift the revs slightly to work the pump more.. Seems to work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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