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Where to relocate TD5 ECU in a 110 HT


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One of the various plans for my new 110 commercial is to wadeify it. Putting a snorkel on it is a bit pointless given where the ECU is, and the number of holes in the seat box. :lol:

So, where to relocate the ECU to?

An obvious place is the bulkhead. Not too far from the seatbox, routing cables would probably be straight forward, and it gets the ECU to above the seat base, which would be ok for occasional wading. Any better locations?

What about the relays in the seat box? There is at least one that is critical to running - can't remember if it's the main relay or the fuel pump - but I don't imagine they like getting dunked.

Is it worth making an enclosure on the bulkhead for the lot? I seem to remember waterproof ones are big money.

Is it as simple as chopping off the 2 plugs and extending the cabling?

Your suggestions and pictures please. :)

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You can get a plug-to-socket extension cable for the Td5 ECU, so that should save chopping the original loom.

As to the relays, I guess they should be easy enough to move, generally just four wires to each one.

To be honest though, I had my 90 sat in 3 or 4 feet of water at times, frequently up to the door handles, even floating at one point (until the footwells filled up!) even then it was never really an issue, OK so there was some water in the seatbox afterwards but I just siphoned it out.

If the seatbox is full of holes, it might be worth plugging them first though.

It appears (on mine anyway) to get in from the top, the cover doesn't even attempt to seal, so once the back of the seatbox is under water it pours in, however, by this time the throttle potentiometer is also under water - so there's another one to think about.

Edited to add: -

One point to watch out for; next to the ECU there are two (or one, depending on age) connecting blocks or "headers" where there are a number of wires joined together, these are very definitely NOT waterproof and will allow current to pass between some rather sensitive connections when wet - that's the one area I did have a problem with and would not be solved simply by moving the ECU.

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Having seen the price of TD5 extension looms (£250+) I'd be looking at cutting & extending the wires - with either decent crimps or solder, plus adhesive-lined heatshrink over the top it should be pretty robust and about £225 cheaper.

They're a bit spendy but these might be a nice way of doing it:

rhss.jpg

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I thought the throttle pot was reasonably water resistant?

I'm aware of the problems of those header connectors, that leak electricity when dry :lol: I've already removed the blue one, and plan to remove any others I encounter.

I have a cubby box, so behind it would make sense, as long as no small fingers decide to play "swap the relays" :)

So, have I forgotten to move any other gubbins up out of the way, other than breathers - Axles x2, gearboxes x2, there's no timing chest, any thing else on the engine? I've only had the TD5 for a few months, so not too familiar with it.

EDIT: Fridge, what are those exactly? Heatshrink? (Couldn't find them on VWP, though the picture is from there :rolleyes: )

Edited by Gromit
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EDIT: Fridge, what are those exactly? Heatshrink? (Couldn't find them on VWP, though the picture is from there :rolleyes: )

They're from here:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/heatsealterms.php

"Solder sleeve butt splices with solder in the connection."

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