Td5 Bulkhead Conversion

[Retroanaconda]

When I bought my 110 it had a severe case of the bulkhead rot, very severe. The worse I've seen:

I filled the holes with some fibreglass to keep most of the water out and set about using the car. However, the MOT is due in November and the tester is likely to disaprove of this (among other things), and besides I hate the way it looks and the ****ing puddles in the footwells!

I'm also a fan of Td5 instruments and the later dash, so it looks like a no-brainer really. Put a Td5 bulkhead in.

Except it's not quite that simple. Physically the bulkheads are very similar, and it shouldn't cause me too many problems in terms of fitment. But electrically they are worlds apart. The 200 Tdi electrical system is basically the same as what was used in the Series cars, power was distributed via the ignition switch alone and Lucar connectors were prevalent, and the engine requires no electronics and only a single 12V supply to run. The Td5 system on the other hand is a modern loom, with several fuseboxes and a different power distribution setup, and designed to work with an ECU-controlled engine. There are very few Lucars, proper multi-plug connectors are used instead.

Lucky for me the RAVE discs contain pretty much everything one would want to know about the Td5 wiring system. It'll even tell you the conductor size and wire length, as well as insulation colours and connector pinouts.

Suffice to say that, bar a few issues with the lack of connector halves on my vehicle's subsidary looms, much of it is plug and play. I will replace the older setup for the front end with the Td5 system of having two wing looms which connect to the main bulkhead harness. This will not only replace some inevitably ageing wiring, but will also allow me to replace my side lights and indicators with 300Tdi units (not bling NAS lamps ) for good measure. The chassis loom I will try and find a connector for, and then match it up to provide the right signals and paths for the Td5 loom. For the engine loom I am probably going to either do the same as the chassis loom, or butcher a Td5 engine loom to suit my 200Tdi (ie. remove a lot of wires!).

The plan is to leave the setup in the bulkhead as a standard Td5 one. So all the extras (like ECU connectors) will be staying in place as far as possible. The reason being that if the 200Tdi ever goes bang in a big way, I want to keep the option of a Td5 engine open. For example, I will keep the Td5 clutch pedal, master cylinder, and switch in place.

So enough word talk, here's some pictures of the new bulkhead which arrived today:

I am in the process of obtaining a new loom, because this one doesn't have the options for central locking or electric windows (both of which I want), and also is slightly damaged in places it seems.

Present in behind the dash is the fog light one-touch ECU, and a 10AS unit. The number on the 10AS ends in 270, which I believe means that it will not operate central locking. Can anyone confirm this for me? That aside, obviously I would need to buy a keyfob and set it up, but is this possible without the engine ECU present as well?

Still wondering whether I want to get it galvanised as well. I should really, since the car is intended to last.

Anyway, this should be fun all the same!

[Dave W]

You need a YWC106280 for central locking. It'll work quite happily without the TD5 ECU although you'll need someone with a testbook or similar to register keyfobs with it.

It's worth doing though as you get other things that it controls that you only appreciate afterwards, dim delay interior lights, interiro lights come on when you unlock the doors with the fob, interior lights auto turn off if you leave the door open for a period of time.

[Retroanaconda]

That sounds good, I'm going to try for central locking with the 10AS, and I definitely like the idea of all those features. Also means that if I get some Td5 doors complete at a later date, they'll just plug straight in.

As an aside, since the dash is filthy all over what is the best way to clean the plastic dash trim pieces? Is it just a case of hot soapy water, or is there some special trick that really makes them shine?

[SiWhite]

Looms for CDL and electric windows are only about £25 each genuine.

Autoglym foaming shampoo is the stuff for the interior - about £5 a can but a million times better than crappy cheap stuff.

[Mo Murphy]

Baby wipes are very good for cleaning dashboards

Mo

[Retroanaconda]

Cool, thanks for that guys. Just been away for the weekend, during which time I discovered a large rust hole in the rear crossmember

This will still be going ahead, but as part of a larger operation of stripping the body off and repairing the chassis

[landroversforever]

Retroanaconda rebuild MK2

[Retroanaconda]

It's certainly looking that way. This is a car I intend to keep for some time so I want to do it right. Currently pricing up:

• Td5 pressed steel style doors with central locking/electric windows, door frames and skins galvanised.
• New rear door, frame galvanised.
• New sills & B/C pillars, galvanised.
• Smooth roof (no sunroof).
• Heated screen.

Will wait until I get the body off though, want to see what condition the chassis is in before I buy anything else. If it's just a new rear cross-member and a patch at the front which is what I currently am aware of, then it's worth replacing, but if not then I need to think long and hard about the new chassis route.

[Retroanaconda]

Alright, the breakers came back with a quote at about £3,000 for that lot, so will probably be looking elsewhere!

[Retroanaconda]

Anyway, back to the task in hand. Picked up a new loom from SiWhite today, this one has central locking and electric windows unlike the (damaged) poverty-spec loom which came with my new bulkhead.

Cue aaaargh!

Td5s have a LOT of wiring, the loom weighs a ton!

I have worked out where most of it goes and what most of the plugs are for, but luckily since the other loom is still assembled in the bulkhead a lot of things will be explained that way. Got to work out how to do a few modifications here and there without damaging the main loom, but I'll find a way.

I intend to get the 110 in the workshop this week (after I fix the roof, extract the 90, and clean the place up) after which I can start removing body panels. Hopefully my chassis will be repairable

[Mark]

james, once you are done with the old td5 loom, I could use a few bits of it to repair my damaged poverty spec td5...

Cheers

Mark

[Retroanaconda]

Sure, hopefully it's not the same bits which are damaged!

I've realised that in theory all the wiring can be bought off the shelf for this, I'd just need to buy ROW-spec 300Tdi wiring looms as and where necessary. Main loom is out of the question as it's about £1,000, but I'm going to source a chassis loom (about £100) as that will save a lot of faff with fuel senders and lights etc. For the engine loom I will probably reverse-engineer my one to fit as it's literally only a few wires (charge light, engine temp, oil pressure light etc.) rather than pay £100 odd for the pukka item.

Chassis loom will be in at the parts place in a couple of days, I hope it's right as they say I can't return it if it's wrong

All my faith is in Microcat!

[Mark]

James, have you checked the Autosparks website, to see if a row spec 300 loom can be had from them?

[Retroanaconda]

Autosparks don't touch anything newer than a 300Tdi unfortunately, so that's a no go. Tried them for some plugs when I was doing the 90's dash last year

Spoke with length with Alistair at Richards today about my options re. chassis replacement. I'm hoping I don't need to go that way, but if I do then I will need a chassis with Td5 tank mounts, but Tdi rear body mounts at the back end, and a 200Tdi front end.

Currently researching the fitting of the Td5 tank to a 200Tdi chassis. This will bring the benefit of further parts compatibility with a Td5 engine if I go that way in the future, as well as being plastic. For ROW-spec vehicles there is a pick-up-pipe/sender unit combined thingy (which confusingly is called a pump by Land Rover despite not being one) which goes into the same hole in the top as the Td5 item, part number WQB100440:

The other issue with the Td5 tank is the mounts. If I replace the rear cross-member with one to Td5 spec then that will sort that side out, but I may have to fabricate some bits on the chassis side.

[Retroanaconda]

Okay, picked up my expensive ROW-spec 110 chassis loom today

This is the bulkhead end, the orange connector is for the rear lighting, and the small grey one is for the fuel sender wires. The black one with the single large purple wire, I don't know what that is for but it has a corresponding plug on the bulkhead so can be connected up. Possibly for the rear auxiliary power pick-up point?

This is the plug which will hopefully connect to the fuel sender unit show in the post above. This is the bit I'm not sure about, so fingers crossed here. I will find out when I get the pump in.

I'm assuming this is for a trailer pickup? Seems to have all the lighting wires in there, as well as a mounting plate.

Left hand lighting, including stop/tail (3-way plug at the top), indicator (2-way plug on the right) and reverse lamp (blue 2-way plug). Also a pair of bloody Lucar connectors (!?) for the number plate lamp

Right hand lighting. Just the stop/tail, indicator and fog guard lamps this side. Nice and simple with these plugs.

So with any luck this should all plug together without any problems, I really hope so otherwise it's £120 + VAT wasted!

[Retroanaconda]

Hmm have realised now that my expensive chassis loom has no connector for rear speakers or, perhaps more importantly, the rear heated screen and wiper.

The plug on the bulkhead loom is as follows:

Where:

1 - SB - Fuel Sender Return

2 - WB - Rear Heated Screen Feed

3 - WG - Rear Washer Pump Feed

4 - BG - Rear Wiper Feed

5 - GB - Fuel Sender Feed

6 - OG - Water Filter Sensor

The plug on the chassis loom should be the same (minus pin 6), however, the plug on my chassis loom only has two wires, in pins 1 and 5. For the fuel tank sender. I wouldn't expect it to have one in position 6 (for thr water filter sensor) as it's for a ROW-spec vehicle, but I would have expected the other parts. Logic says to me that I've just ordered a loom for a base-spec vehicle, or for a pickup, but according to Microcat there aren't any other options for a 300Tdi 110 from VIN 2A622424 onwards (2002-on dash). The only other one listed is YNN000391, which is shown as a 'ZA' part (I'm assuming South Africa?). This may mean something, considering that in the wiring diagram for the audio systems it lists the rear speakers as 'South Africa only'. Of course we all know that rear speakers weren't a South Africa only part, but maybe this is just how LR differentiated?

Could it be that the loom listed as a South Africa spec part was the one I wanted, with wiring for rear screen wash/wipe/heater and rear speakers?

I will have to make do with this loom, as I don't want to shell out another £120 + VAT on something which still may not be right, so does anybody know where I can source the male pins for the connector on the chassis loom? And a connector the same to go the other end (to connect to the rear door loom). If I can get those bits then I can just add the required wiring to my loom and re-wrap it.

This is the spec sheet for the connector currently on my loom (that I require pins for):

And a photo of the bulkhead side which goes into it, if that helps anyone (the chassis loom side is shown in the post above, grey plug in the first pic):

There are lots of this type in the loom. Wing loom connectors, other chassis loom connectors etc.

Thanks

Edit: Think I've found the plugs:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SMHW/smhw.html

Will get some ordered and I can make my loom work properly

Edited September 4, 2010 by Retroanaconda

[djwillis]

The black one with the single large purple wire, I don't know what that is for but it has a corresponding plug on the bulkhead so can be connected up. Possibly for the rear auxiliary power pick-up point?

That's just what it is for.

Do update with how you get on with the TD5 tank sender, 300TDi and the loom, just about to try and get to the bottom of some that with my 300TDi 90 and it's currently dead tank sender .

That said, I may have snagged a Puma tank and sender not the TD5 one I was hoping for (Doh!) so that will be totally different to the TD5 just to make things difficult .

Oh, and thanks again for the gauges and stuff during the week. Much appreciated, started to wire it all up.

[Mo Murphy]

Guys, if anyone needs a TD5 90 fuel tank, I have one gathering dust in the garage that could be yours for a small fee

Mo

Ps James, does that 90 have an undamaged ribbed roof that you are swapping for the proposed smooth roof ?

[Retroanaconda]

Does a 90 Td5 tank fit a 110 Td5 and vice versa? Or are they different? If it is the same as a 110 Td5 tank then I'm very interested

Which 90 is that? The only 90 I have is my truck cab.

[Mo Murphy]

No the tanks are different James Sorry I didn't realise you were building a barge and not a proper land Rover

Mo

[PaulMc]

James,

If you only need male and female terminals with wire seals, they're available from Polevolt, here -

Polevolt - Sumitomo Terminals

Male Terminal = 1500-0105

Female Terminal = 1500-0110

Wire Seal = 7165-0118

.

[Retroanaconda]

I decided to get a connector pair as well as spare terminals, so got them from the beaver company. I'm allowing for not being able to find a connector to match the one on the door harness, in which case I will cut it off and fit this pair. Shipping worldwide for $5.00 isn't bad I don't think!

Mo: This may be a barge (ie. thinking man's Land Rover) but I do have two short wheelbase ones to counter it's sensibility!

[PaulMc]

I decided to get a connector pair as well as spare terminals, so got them from the beaver company. I'm allowing for not being able to find a connector to match the one on the door harness, in which case I will cut it off and fit this pair. Shipping worldwide for $5.00 isn't bad I don't think!

Mo: This may be a barge (ie. thinking man's Land Rover) but I do have two short wheelbase ones to counter it's sensibility!

If you're buying spare connectors as well, then Eastern Beaver makes sense.

Yes, his P&P terms are excellent and, in my experience, he's very quick to dispatch.

Which door connector are you trying to match?

.

[Retroanaconda]

The one on the end of the rear door harness, than connects to the chassis harness. I don't have my RAVE to hand here so can't give you connector numbers, I'm just planning ahead for not being able to source it easily.

[PaulMc]

The one on the end of the rear door harness, than connects to the chassis harness. I don't have my RAVE to hand here so can't give you connector numbers, I'm just planning ahead for not being able to source it easily.

C0704/C1102 ???

Can't really see them from the RAVE, but it looks as though they could be Sumitomo HM Sealed Series connectors -

.

which Eastern Beaver sell -

6 Position .090 Waterproof Connector.

.