Jump to content

Td5 Bulkhead Conversion


Recommended Posts

I think so yes Paul, good to know they're available. Will probably do another order with Eastern Beaver when I have made sure I have all the plugs I need :)

I've hopefully bought a tank sender assembly for a bit cheaper than the list price, of eBay, so will check the loom plug I have fits when it arrives.

Waiting on getting a chance to fix the roof in the workshop before putting the 110 in there and beginning the stripdown, will hopefully be next week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well some very fast delivery later I have my fuel 'pump':

post-10578-074804200 1283885539_thumb.jpg

This is a genuine ROW-spec 110 fuel sender (WQB100440), which I am pleased to say my loom plug does appear to fit. The wires on the loom even line up with where the signal wires go down to the sender unit itself ^_^

Got to get a Td5 fuel tank (how much new!!?), and once the body's off, mock up the mounts. Hopefully with a Td5-style rear cross member I'll only have to fabricate the forward ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi James

I have been following this thread with interest...as I have just done exactly the same with my 110 (well pretty much) i.e it started life as a standard 200Tdi County Station Wagon and I am currently building it up into a 300Tdi Overland Vehicle. Basic spec/work carried out so far is:

-Purchase vehicle of eblag, took home and completely stripped down, chassis shot blasted, new 300Tdi engine mounts welded in, two new bulkhead outriggers and a 3mm heavy duty Td5 spec rear cross-remember fitted. Then all off to be galvanized along with turrets, removable R380 gearbox and protector/bash plate.

-Once back was made into a rolling chassis with a brand new wolf spec rear 110 axle and a brand new latest spec front axle, suspension choice is OME springs with Koni heavy duty rally track raid shockers and all poly-bushed.

-Mounted rear ROW spec 300Tdi tank and cradle, fitted all fuel pipes (again all ROW spec) and fitted water separator/fuel filter to chassis.

-Mounted chassis ROW spec loom to the outside (didn't want to risk it getting shredded on some sharp galvanizing on the inside of the chassis rails.

-Post 2002 Td5 Spec bulkhead purchased, stripped, galvanized and painted in Stornoway Grey. Then re-assembled with Fat Mat soundproofing everywhere!

-New latest spec Td5 R380 gearbox with changed input-shaft to allow 300Tdi bell-housing mounted to new standard LT230 transfer box.

-Turner Engineering rebuilt 300Tdi Engine with Performance head, re-conditioned injection pump, new injectors, new turbo, new high output alternator etc all fitted.

-Floor seat-box and stripped back to bare ally and painted etc then all fitted and soundproof extensively.

I would be happy to help you if you have an questions.

Regards

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi James

I have been following this thread with interest...as I have just done exactly the same with my 110 (well pretty much) i.e it started life as a standard 200Tdi County Station Wagon and I am currently building it up into a 300Tdi Overland Vehicle. Basic spec/work carried out so far is:

-Purchase vehicle of eblag, took home and completely stripped down, chassis shot blasted, new 300Tdi engine mounts welded in, two new bulkhead outriggers and a 3mm heavy duty Td5 spec rear cross-remember fitted. Then all off to be galvanized along with turrets, removable R380 gearbox and protector/bash plate.

-Once back was made into a rolling chassis with a brand new wolf spec rear 110 axle and a brand new latest spec front axle, suspension choice is OME springs with Koni heavy duty rally track raid shockers and all poly-bushed.

-Mounted rear ROW spec 300Tdi tank and cradle, fitted all fuel pipes (again all ROW spec) and fitted water separator/fuel filter to chassis.

-Mounted chassis ROW spec loom to the outside (didn't want to risk it getting shredded on some sharp galvanizing on the inside of the chassis rails.

-Post 2002 Td5 Spec bulkhead purchased, stripped, galvanized and painted in Stornoway Grey. Then re-assembled with Fat Mat soundproofing everywhere!

-New latest spec Td5 R380 gearbox with changed input-shaft to allow 300Tdi bell-housing mounted to new standard LT230 transfer box.

-Turner Engineering rebuilt 300Tdi Engine with Performance head, re-conditioned injection pump, new injectors, new turbo, new high output alternator etc all fitted.

-Floor seat-box and stripped back to bare ally and painted etc then all fitted and soundproof extensively.

I would be happy to help you if you have an questions, I also have a photobucket account with loads of pictures and two videos of the engine all running and driving around etc. Go to http://photobucket.com/ and put in the username: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and password: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Regards

Rob

Rob,

I wouldn't put your Photobucket username and password up on an open forum like that :o

It leaves your account and pictures open to all sorts of abuse and mis-use.

Edit your previous post and remove the details - quickly, before the damage is done.

In Photobucket, you can share an album and provide a link to it for public veiwing.

Joe Public can then look at your pictures (just the ones you want them to look at), but can't delete or edit them or add god-knows-what to your album :unsure:

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob,

I wouldn't put your Photobucket username and password up on an open forum like that :o

It leaves your account and pictures open to all sorts of abuse and mis-use.

Edit your previous post and remove the details - quickly, before the damage is done.

In Photobucket, you can share an album and provide a link to it for public veiwing.

Joe Public can then look at your pictures (just the ones you want them to look at), but can't delete or edit them or add god-knows-what to your album :unsure:

.

Hi

Thanks Paul...didn't really think that one through!

The album URL is:

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/rcsprason/Defender%20110%20Overland%20Build/

Will that work?

Regards

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob, sounds like a good rebuild you did there!

Since you offered:

  1. Whereabouts did you get your rear cross member from? I need a Td5 spec one to make mounting the tank easier, but don't want the standard paper-thin affair.
  2. You had your chassis galvanised, how did you remove all the rust from the inside? It's something I'm considering, but I had discounted it due to the inability to remove all the rust from inside the rails, which would no doubt show itself in the future.

Thanks

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob, sounds like a good rebuild you did there!

Since you offered:

  1. Whereabouts did you get your rear cross member from? I need a Td5 spec one to make mounting the tank easier, but don't want the standard paper-thin affair.
  2. You had your chassis galvanised, how did you remove all the rust from the inside? It's something I'm considering, but I had discounted it due to the inability to remove all the rust from inside the rails, which would no doubt show itself in the future.

Thanks

James

Hi James

Crossmember came from Warwick 4x4. Its build like a brick-sh*t house to be fair! Was very impressed and they provided it in bare steel so it could galvanized.

To galv my chassis....I cut off the old rear cross-member lifted the chassis up by the front as far as I could (see the photo-bucket album!) Then I smacked the living daylights out of it with a nice hammer up and down the chassis rails to remove all the loose stuff on the inside.

I hired a 3000psi pressure washer and put it in the front of the chassis and washed all the remaining stuff out (it was lovely and clean by the time I had finished) then welded the new rear cross-member on.

Then went off to be shot-blasted externally and galvanized. As a part of the galv process they first "pickle" the chassis in hydrochloric acid (I think) to clean off any remaining rust and give a good "key" for the galv to stick to, then its dipped in a water bath and only after all that is it galvanized. The company that did mine galv to a marine standard with an extremely high zinc content (hence in the pictures it doesn't look like normal galv which has an almost cammo type effect, but looks very silver). Its got a thick and I mean thick coating so should really last a min of 25 years even with all the hard use I am expecting to give it.

Hope that helps a bit!

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that.

Can't find any details for a company called Warwick 4x4 anywhere online, just some suggestions that they had become part of JE Engineering.

There is MIB Components who are in Leamington Spa, is this the new face of Warwick 4x4?

http://indigo.xilo.net/~landrove/rangiebreaker/index.php

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that.

Can't find any details for a company called Warwick 4x4 anywhere online, just some suggestions that they had become part of JE Engineering.

There is MIB Components who are in Leamington Spa, is this the new face of Warwick 4x4?

http://indigo.xilo.net/~landrove/rangiebreaker/index.php

It would appear that Warwick 4x4 has split into two companies (last november I am told) one is for garage work; 4x4 Reborn: on 01926 258894 and for replacement chassis parts: MIB components on 01926 258894 - just ask for a 3mm heavy duty crossmember and they will sort you right out!

Regards

Rob

P.s I have ust updated the photobucket album with a load more pictures!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool, the chap said £150 + VAT for a 3mm Td5-spec cross member, so when I have the body off and can verify that the rest of the chassis is OK I will order one.

Your project looks great Rob, a nice standard of finish there. Did you have to make any modifications to the rear body mounts on the chassis? I know Td5 ones are different, but not how :P

Is the fuel tank a standard Td5 110 one? As far as I can tell from the parts info I have there is no special tank for the ROW-spec models, just the sender and pipework is different?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob,

Very good rebuild, I'll be following your progress with interest.

That's something I'd like to do with my 110, if I only had the space and the money - I've got the time, but that's not a lot of use without the other two :(

Anyway, looking at your new rear crossmember, I've noticed that the jacking points have been moved inboard and there are two 'T' slots in their place.

What are these for?

Also, the jacking points don't look as though they're tubed, are they?

th_IMG_1206.jpg . th_IMG_1094.jpg . th_IMG_1089.jpg

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul, thank for the praise! It’s taken a good year of hard work so far to get it to the drivable stage it’s in at the moment and of course far, far too much money; the engine alone cost about 4.5k all in! I REALLY wanted the TGV 2.8 HS engine, but at around 6.5k for the engine and heavy duty clutch plus the fact that I would want to up-rate the whole drive train it was just going to be a stupid amount of money. Plus I figured with going to Africa, should the sh*t hit the fan, 300Tdi parts would be easier to come by rather than the 2.8 International engine.

Anyway to more important things; the T-sections are for the Hi-lift jack fitting; I guess the guys who designed the cross-member figured it would be better lifting the vehicle with that rather than the standard Landy jack. Plus mine it going to be a heavy expedition Defender so that suits me just fine as I will have a Hi-Lift with me (they are tested to 7000lbs).

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob,

Did you have to make any modifications to the rear body mounts on the chassis? To clear the filler hose or anything? Td5 vehicles use a different design of body mount, but I'm not sure why.

Is the fuel tank a standard Td5 110 one (WHK100050)? As far as I can tell from the parts info I have there is no special tank for the ROW-spec models, just the sender and pipework is different?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

James,

To ensure that the tub was lined up perfectly, I re-fitted the old 200Tdi type tub and bolted up all the mounts along the back and front, then I made sure I was happy with the cross-member placement, I tacked it in place and then removed the tub and then seam welded the cross-member all the way round. The actually cross-member mounts for the body are fixed in place where as on a Td5 type there is a removable rail that runs across the top of the cross-member. Fuel filler hose is fine; I am planning on fitting a PUMA type 110 rear tub as this will allow the better spec seats etc.

The tank is exactly the same as a standard Td5 type with the cradle and mounting plate (I think there are some pictures in my photobucket album). The only difference is the fuel sender unit/pickup as this only has two fittings (inlet/outlet) where as the Td5 has four and is a pump as well. I was extremely lucky and purchased a complete ROW spec loom for the whole Defender and literally everything just plugs in. The only thing I had to fabricate was the cradle mounts; these are two angular mounts that bolt to the chassis and then the cradle strap bolts down over the top. I then drilled two holes in my chassis and put in two rivet-nuts to mount the brackets to (two stainless bolts each side mount the cradle brackets to the chassis and then two further bolts each side bolt the cradle strap to the brackets! Not too confusing hopefully....

See the picture....I hope it works!

Tankmount.jpg

Regards

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should have been more specific, I was referring to the mounts further forward, which support the weight of the tub. You can see one of them straddling the filler hose in your picture. However your lack of mentioning them and the fact that I can see it working quite well in the photo above seems to indicate that they aren't an issue!

This is the difference I have found between Td5 and earlier supports:

support110.jpg

Thanks for the advice re. the fitting of the cross member, that is basically what I had planned but it's good to see it explained. Also good to hear that the tank is the same as a standard Td5. I should be able to pick up a second hand Td5 tank for a lot less than a new one, and since it's plastic it shouldn't have any issues with regard to rust!

You were very lucky with the loom. I have a new ROW-spec chassis loom (although it needs modifying) and will be getting wing looms too. Then I will modify my engine loom to fit and mate the whole lot to my Td5 main bulkhead harness.

Out of interest, you don't know what the part number was on your chassis loom do you? Does yours have connectors at the rear end for rear window wash/wiper/heater, rear speakers etc.?

Thanks for all the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should have been more specific, I was referring to the mounts further forward, which support the weight of the tub. You can see one of them straddling the filler hose in your picture. However your lack of mentioning them and the fact that I can see it working quite well in the photo above seems to indicate that they aren't an issue!

This is the difference I have found between Td5 and earlier supports:

support110.jpg

Thanks for the advice re. the fitting of the cross member, that is basically what I had planned but it's good to see it explained. Also good to hear that the tank is the same as a standard Td5. I should be able to pick up a second hand Td5 tank for a lot less than a new one, and since it's plastic it shouldn't have any issues with regard to rust!

You were very lucky with the loom. I have a new ROW-spec chassis loom (although it needs modifying) and will be getting wing looms too. Then I will modify my engine loom to fit and mate the whole lot to my Td5 main bulkhead harness.

Out of interest, you don't know what the part number was on your chassis loom do you? Does yours have connectors at the rear end for rear window wash/wiper/heater, rear speakers etc.?

Thanks for all the help.

James,

I got my loom from a company called Hobson Bros, I think this the correct number and address: Wolsingham, Bishop Auckland, County Durham DL13 3BD, p: 01388527283 f: 01388527593

They break and build Land Rovers for Africa etc. Really helpfully chap called Richard Hobson.

With regards to the loom I would say yes it does have the connections for the rear window wash/wiper/heater, on the O/S rear cross-member there are many plugs. I don’t know the part numbers though I am afraid, I am currently working out of Aberdeen and my Defender is in Devon!

No worries with regard to the help, I am happy to help!

Regards

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers.

About the 2nd row seats, I believe it is possible to fit the later ones to an earlier rear tub, but it requires some modifications.

SiWhite has them fitted to his 110, which I believe has a Td5 rear tub which he modified:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52585&view=findpost&p=490969

Something I'm looking at for mine, if I can find some at a decent price, as they are definitely a massive improvement over the normal seats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah wicked! It can be done; my plan is to fit the double seat on one side and then leave the single one out and put my fridge there instead! Which should free up some room in the back for all my gear. The plan with mine is to build it up into a commercial spec one as well; I like the idea of hiding all my expedition stuff in the back.

The 110 in that post is lovely! I am also building some 2nd row doors up using the same method and my B-posts are being galvanised as well. Hopefully my Landy will be around for a long time.

Regards

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The number above for Hobsons doesn't seem to work, I did find a company called Hobson Industries which deals with Land Rovers, but I don't think they will be able to help me.

If I want a proper ROW-spec main harness and chassis harness I think I'll have to just buy one new from Land Rover :(

Trouble is, I'd want one with central locking, electric windows, heated screen/seats etc. Finding a part number for such a thing is quite difficult.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy