just a couple of quick questions

[series 3]

hey all,

its been aaaages since ive posted here and even longer since ive looked at my landy project. but thats all changed, ive written up the final plan for finishing the project and intend to spend the next three weekends putting the time in to get this thing moving. to be honest ive bought a mk1 capri and its taken my attention over entirely (can you blame me ), last week it went to a welder till christmas, so ive got a free garage, an empty wallet and a couple of months to finish this land rover.

ive got most of it worked out but theres afew things im still unsure about

1. the accelerator pedal isnt working correctly, you have to push the pedal half way down before the engine will start to rev, ive looked at the mechanism and i cant figure a way to adjust it without breaking bits.

2. the fuel pump that should be attached to the bulkhead is....not attached to the bulkhead. i can see where the bolts go through but cant see where to get the nuts on form the other side. do i have to remove the dash to to get nuts on it or is there nuts in there somewhere welded to the bulkhead or am i missing the plot altogethor?

3. i want to paint the front window frame, can i simply make a key in the metal, stick aliminuim primer on it and paint it?

4.any tips on replacing the passenger side door skin?

5. is there any other way to repair aliminuim bodywork other than riveting or using that alu weld stuff, tried both with limited success but theres gota be a better way

thats enough for now i think, any light you can shed on these qaundries would be appreciated.

cheers

[disco2hse]

3. i want to paint the front window frame, can i simply make a key in the metal, stick aliminuim primer on it and paint it?

Is it still galvanised? Why paint over the galvanising if it is?

If not still galvanised, then strip to metal, etch prime, prime, top coat X2.

4.any tips on replacing the passenger side door skin?

Door panel repairs post #7

[Varsas]

Good luck, I would ask for pics/description of the Capri but we might get in trouble for posting non LR stuff...

As for the fuel pump....I'm not sure what you mean. As far as I know, on diesel cars you get a lift pump attached to the side of the engine, and a distributor pump attached to the top of the engine. On petrol ones you just get the lift pump.

You don't mean the fuel filter do you? That's bolted just under the windscreen, in the middle. The long bolts go through and you just put nuts on the other side. You have a sort of plastic cover thing that covers them but put the bolts through, have a poke round from inside the car and you'll see them.

[series 3]

woops

your spot on, it is the filter. thanks for not nailing me for being a bit slow on the uptake .

i probably havent dug deep enough, ill sort that this weekend. cheers varsas

i cant see the post on door repair until ive signed up to the webiste unfortunately. you couldnt copy and paste it onto this thread by any chance for us could ya?

cheers guys thats afew questions sorted, only 4326 to go

oh by the way, my capper can be seen if you follow this link:

http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32584

i never bothered updatin this thread to be honest so its alot nicer now but still miles from bein drivable.

[disco2hse]

i cant see the post on door repair until ive signed up to the webiste unfortunately. you couldnt copy and paste it onto this thread by any chance for us could ya?

You can de-skin the door by annealing the aluminium using the heat of a propane burner and a broad knife or spatula. BTW I have never done a Defender or County door but have done Series doors and the process is the same although there will be some differences with each type.

With all fittings off the face of the door. Mildly heat a reasonable area along the edge of the door where it's been crimped over starting at a corner (the bottom edge first), then when the alloy is soft prise up the folded over lip working a small area at a time moving the process slowly along each edge. Be careful not to tear or crease the lip where your working and the adjacent area. Fold back till the lip is about 90 deg to the door edge. Do one edge at a time working until the all for edges are completed. You may find that there is a partial barrier between the frame and the skin which may need to be cut using a blade, again working from a bottom corner with care lift off the skin, cutting the adhesive barrier if present where necessary.

When the panel is off, inspect the inside of the panel and frame. Mechanically remove any corrosion. At this point you will be able to determine if the skin and frame are salvageable.

Do any rust repairs necessary, treat both metals and apply a rust preventative to the inside of the door. Apply a permanent barrier to the edge of the door where the skin sits and folds over. This can even be a plastic type membrane. With the door outside down on a flat surface that will not damage the skin, anneal the edge to be re-folded down to the frame making sure the edge finishes crimping the frame tightly.

It may be easier to get a replacement door, but the problem of electrolysis may still occur with a replacement door.

My guess it all depends on how long you intend to keep the vehicle that will determine whether your efforts are worthwhile.

Diana

Diana is a very highly respected member of that forum.