Jump to content

Puma reliability/durability


Recommended Posts

I was wondering if anyone has encountered similar problems to those on Mk3 Mondeos on higher mileage Puma engines. As both a Mondeo tdci and Defender owner, before the Puma engine ever went into to the Defender, I must admit I thought it would be a very suitable engine for the Defender. However there are well documented issues with this engine in the Mondeo (I know, I have had some with mine; still think it's a good engine) so wondered if anyone had similar problems with Defenders (yet). I'm thinking of cam and crank sensor failures and glow plugs dying (cheap) and injector or fuel pump failures (not cheap) and similar. Have the durability problems been sorted? Does anyone have a Puma Defender with 100k on the clock yet?

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Off the top of my head and on the fly as I don't have a lot of time..

Early ones had potential sump meeting propshaft issues when the axle was at extreme articulation but a modified sump put an end to that.

Some early ones had oil jet issues leading to loud knocking from cold startup. Replacement of entire engine unit was the recommended fix.

Early clutches could be troublesome.

Early vacuum pump oilseals.

I'm sure there were others but I'm brain dead and busy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a fair point. Will be interesting to see....

That being said, i own a mk3 mondeo tdci 130 and its now covered over 170k and the only things ive had go wrong are rattly auxiliary and crank pulleys. In the case of the crank pulley, this can be cured by tack welding the two halves of the pulley together..

Do the puma's use the dual-mass flywheels?

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some isolated injector issues, EGR valves are as carp as Land Rover EGR valves have always been but like the old ones can be blanked off quite easily, and the other thing that goes a fair bit is the pressure (?) control valve in the back of the fuel pump, usually causes shunting, loss of power and excessive injection noise. Easyish to change but fkin expensive - north of 200 quid :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some isolated injector issues, EGR valves are as carp as Land Rover EGR valves have always been but like the old ones can be blanked off quite easily, and the other thing that goes a fair bit is the pressure (?) control valve in the back of the fuel pump, usually causes shunting, loss of power and excessive injection noise. Easyish to change but fkin expensive - north of 200 quid :o

What is shunting?

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is shunting?

Nigel

Engine revving and dying back without you moving your foot on the pedal. It's caused in this case by erratic control of the pressure in the fuel rail, which is normally increased by the ECU in response to a driver demand for extra power and decreased as demand reduces, for smoother idle, less injection noise etc.

Basically due to the control valve being fked, the rail pressure jumps, which causes extra fuel to be injected creating a surge in revs then drops off as the high pressure pump over-corrects and so the revs drop then back again in the same cycle. If the rail pressure is way too high they don't half make some injection rattle at idle too :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Engine revving and dying back without you moving your foot on the pedal. It's caused in this case by erratic control of the pressure in the fuel rail, which is normally increased by the ECU in response to a driver demand for extra power and decreased as demand reduces, for smoother idle, less injection noise etc.

Basically due to the control valve being fked, the rail pressure jumps, which causes extra fuel to be injected creating a surge in revs then drops off as the high pressure pump over-corrects and so the revs drop then back again in the same cycle. If the rail pressure is way too high they don't half make some injection rattle at idle too :o

Yes I know what you mean now. One thing I would add is I recently had to have a new injector on my Mondeo and the man who fitted it said it might take a while to settle down and for the ECU to relearn the engine. For the first few miles it shunted, and also occasionally knocked, but did sort itself out. I'd say that took around 400 miles to do.

Nigel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy