tuko Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 There is someinteresting info here. I was looking for this info as I'm adapting a disco front axle for my series, allthough now I might not need wide angle props. Hey tuko int yours a 300tdi, I am doing mine at the moment, with disco axles. Close, mine has a 300Di motor in it, the remaining running gear is all series 3. The front axle is a 2002 Defender 110 front (16M) and rear is an early RR with disc's. BTW, I finished the front propshaft this weekend and I'm very pleased with the results, especially the lack of binding in the u-joints. There is literally no more driveline vibrations. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serious Series Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Sorry to drag up this old thread but have just done the same mod on my SWB front prop. Attached some pics with angles added The gains are not as much as I hoped but it might be sufficient to stop my prop bursting the seal out of sliding joint when over extended. 9 degrees gained when Series prop yoke at full extension into the RR flange 1.5 degrees gained RR yoke at full extension into series prop. Length gain 3/8" Some thing else I have come across which puzzles me the prop I have converted is off my motor and apart from keep bursting through the seal on sliding joint has not had any other issues when I was carrying it into the garage after removal the sliding portion dropped out as the seal ring was outside of screw cup . This meant I had to derust it and find the alignment marks for re assembly , much to my suprise the alignment marks do not put the two yokes in line they are about 15 degrees out. As this was not some thing I had come across did a search of several forums and found one post where it was advised that rear prop yokes would be in line but front would be as much as 30 deg offline. Has anyone any knowledge why this would be. My immediate thought was that my two prop halfs where not an original pair! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 Has anyone any knowledge why this would be. In order to counter the effect of the front diff flange and transfer box output flange not being on parallel planes. This introduces an out-of-phase vibration (due to the non-constant velocity nature of universal joints), and so the yokes are offset so as to reduce the effect of this and any resultant vibrations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 SS, in the first image your prop shafts are not standing equal to each other as they are in the second image. Was this deliberate? I've done this conversion on my front prop but to be honest I didn't notice any significant differences as I did with the rear prop. Has it made any difference for you? Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 This can be improved significantly with a grinder. As there are plenty of material on the prop itself. The problem with the prop sliding out too far and popping off the seal, is made way more serious because of axle wrap. This makes the prop extend much further than when you jack it up. So ideally you should have more travel in the sliding joint than there actually is on a series. At least thats problems that I've noticed. Since I have installed a anti-wrap bar the travel of the prop is way more predictable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serious Series Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Tuko Well spotted I will turn it same way and compare again. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feltham Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi guys, I'm now a little confused. Have you only replaced the axle side of the u j, and the shaft side is as standard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi guys, I'm now a little confused. Have you only replaced the axle side of the u j, and the shaft side is as standard? No, we replaced both flanges as per this image: Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 I got mine on today. Shortened to 608mm fully closed. Damn thing still binds when I get to about 15" travel. I haven't had the grinder to it yet though ) I only have 5mm slide in that 15" mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogteam Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 My apologies for resurecting such an old thread, but I was wondering if anyone could give me the GKN part numbers to do this mod on a front series shaft? I'm in Canada, so not many RRC drive shafts laying about... Cheers, dogteam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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