TheBeastie Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Following a holiday incident letting back door get caught by wind resulting in burst LED stop/tail light I assumed I needed to add another rubber stopper into the channel at the bottom of the door that controls the opening. What I found instead when I looked closely was that the metal used to form the channel which the arm runs in was of such thin metal that when the weight of the door came onto the rubber stopper the side wall of the channel bulged out the way, letting the door swing those critical couple of cms to smash the lens. I have since knocked the channel back into shape but wonder if anyone has any ideas how I might strengthen it since if it has happened once it will happen again (we do get big winds up here!) and these Perei LED units are pretty costly so I want to avoid if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobson Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I can't believe it! i had this happen to me a while ago, broke my rear worklight. i was going to post on here how i'd improved the thin crappy doorstop but didn't think anyone would care! anyway, i simply took the door cover off and drilled a 6mm hole through the top and bottom of the stop channels about 10mm back from the end, then put an m6 bolt through with some washers and a nylock nut, then cut the bolt off nice and short. this way, it means the channel is shorter, so stops the door swinging as much, and it holds the channel together better. simple. if you need a picture i can do one but it'll be tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 a gas strut from a car bonnet/tailgate has been fitted by some owners on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobson Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 a bit crude i know but quick and easy! If you're out in strong winds a lot though i'd definitely go with Ralphs solution of a gas strut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I used a gas strut on my last 90 and it worked a treat. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 Thanks guys. Sounds like putting a gas strut on is the way to go but wondered if anyone has any pictures to help give me an idea of how and where to connect the ends? Feel a trip to the scrappy coming up - any particular recommendations for gas strut donor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 I have a gas strut on mine . Not sure how well it would work with a spare wheel on the door though. I think I've gone mad...I'm sure I posted this yesterday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 If it is any help the spare wheel, although on the rear door, is on a Bearmach wheel carrier so weight (vertically at least) is on the chassis not the door. However the added weight does add to the horizontal pull on the door when it is opening. I wondered whether there was any possible adaptation to the wheel carrier to stop it but guess this might put a heck of a strain in wrong places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26013 there's a thread, was sure i had posted pictures somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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