Caliper bolt stripped swivel housing thread?

[Disty]

I ordered AFU1031 from LR Series, and when I fitted my calipers with it, it stripped the thread of the swivel housing, meaning I now have to buy new swivel housings :'(

Does anybody know why these two parts are different? One has a much tighter thread than the other and is also slightly longer.

Is it a big no-no to retap the thread on the swivel housings? I did all 4, grr!

Correct bolt: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6974/FTC3375-CALIPER-TO-SWIVEL-BOLT.html?search=FTC3375&page=1

Incorrect bolt: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2416/AFU1031-BOLT-CALIPER-TO-SWIVEL-HOUSING.html?search=AFU1031&page=1

[landroversforever]

One is metric and the other imperial I think.

[Disty]

Am I skewered..?

[markyboy]

Am I skewered..?

Not in my opinion.

You could helicoil them.

Or, if that's not deemed suitable in this safety crtical area, weld the holes up then re-drill and tap them. Obviously you would have to make sure to re-do them in the correct position, an engineering shop might be best to carry out the work.

I personally don't see why helicoils would not be suitable but I stand to be corrected.

HTH,

Mark.

[Retroanaconda]

A decent pair of swivel housings from a breaker might be cheaper.

I have one 300Tdi (nearside) swivel housing here if it's any use to you.

[zim]

Both of those bolts are M12.

[Disty]

I went for the breakers option and got 2 housings from paddocks for £20 a pop.

Now I've gone and sheared the bolt that holds the bottom pin in. The Rave CD says 78NM is required for those bottom pins- seems a heck of a lot, and clearly I sheared my bolt trying to get it up to that. Now I have to go get it drilled out! Annoying!!

[Aragorn]

If its the small M8 bolts in the bottom pin then 78nm is way way way too much torque.

Try 25-30 next time!

http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm

You shouldnt need to drill it right out, it wont be siezed so as long as you can get a grip of it (stud extractor perhaps?), it should just wind out.

[Disty]

I was going to drill in and use an easy out, but I brought it back with me and will take it to the engineers I think. So annoying!! I can see how the top bolts are 78 as they are m17, but the bottom ones were like m10 on one side and m13 on the other I think.

[Aragorn]

M17 doesnt sound right?

if you mean a 17mm head, then its probably an M10 bolt. The M size is the diameter of the threaded section.

The bolts in the bottom of my swivels were M8, which is usually a 13mm head, however mine had unusually small 10mm heads on them for some reason.

[Disty]

Ah I see- that's right, the new bolts were M8 with a 10mm head and the old ones M8 with a 13mm head. Any idea what torque you use on them?

This is what the rave cd says:

[Aragorn]

See my link above. 17-25lbft depending on the grade.

I've seen quite a few errors printed in manuals for components around that area.

For example, one of the manuals gives the top bearing preload values as ~4kg for all vehicles, whereas that value only applies to railko bushes. Vehicles with taper bearings at the top should only be done up to ~1.2kg

[JeffR]

I find this thread interesting, especially the bit about incorrect torques being printed in the manuals. Therefore, does anyone have the time or inclination (perhaps on the technical forum) to actually compile an accurate list?

[Disty]

Looks like that's a no Jeff! I'm also curious. Rave CD is useless!!