RMEHUNTER Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Hello all, this is my first post. I just upgraded my brakes on a TD5 110 in the US (LHD). I got new calipers (front), EBC Green pads and new Rotors all the way around. I followed the manual on the brake bleed procedures but it is not doing the trick. I bled in this order: 1. Left Rear 2. Right Rear 3. Right Front 4. Left Front The pedal goes very far down prior to stopping and I don't have the power, but if I pump once it stop great. I did the work about a week ago and I am assuming there is no leak as there is no change in fluid levels or pressure (stayed constant). Does anybody have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Does it require the initial pump after moving? Could be a warped disk or loose wheel bearing is pushing a pad back into the caliper. (oh, and welcome to the forum ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Hello and welcome. The "Haynes" specified brake bleed procedure is starting at the nearest wheel out and working outwards. try re bleeding going from front left to, front right, rear left, rear right. They can be very awkward sometimes and need bleeding a few times, its also most effective with a helper pressing the peddel for you. Has the brake peddel had a lot of travel for a while, or is it since you changed the calipers? I had a similar problem (although i have an older vehicle) and I found that after repeated goes at bleeding it never improved, it turned out that my master cylinder was leaking and bi-passing fluid. a new one cured master cured the problem. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMEHUNTER Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 The brakes worked fine before I changed everything. I only had to push the pedal very little to see results. Now if I have to have a hard stop I need to pump once then they really engage. It seems like there is air somewhere... I will re-bleed with the wife tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 I will re-bleed with the wife tonight Mate of mine got his wife to help with brake bleeding, resulting row led to divorce!! Good luck Welcome btw and I agree with the others, you may still have air in there. As there's two of you doing it, close the bleed nipple when the pedal is right down before letting it back up. Sometimes air can be sucked in around the thread when you let the pedal up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harle Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Might be worth leaving it overnight with the brake pedal wedged on and the front axle on stands in order to keep the master cylinder the highest point in the system. Does the trick for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMEHUNTER Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Funny you mention that. I just talked to a Rover guy in the area and he said: 1. Start the engine. 2. Jam a 2x4 on the brake pedal 3. Top off the fluid 4. Crack all the valves 5. Keep filling the fluid (need about 2 bottles)... Make sure fluid level does not drop... 6. Let engine run for about 15m minutes like this 7. Tighten all valves in order (RR,LR,RF,Lf) 8. Top off fluid He called this a gravity bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMEHUNTER Posted September 17, 2010 Author Share Posted September 17, 2010 Funny you mention that. I just talked to a Rover guy in the area and he said: 1. Start the engine. 2. Jam a 2x4 on the brake pedal 3. Top off the fluid 4. Crack all the valves 5. Keep filling the fluid (need about 2 bottles)... Make sure fluid level does not drop... 6. Let engine run for about 15m minutes like this 7. Tighten all valves in order (RR,LR,RF,Lf) 8. Top off fluid He called this a gravity bleed. OK, performed the above method in addition to my wife pressing on the brake as I was tightening each bleed valve. Work perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 No idea why you'd need the engine running, wouldnt make any difference. I use a pressure bleeder. So much easier than faffing around with the pedal. Just clip it on, go round each nipple and job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 OK, performed the above method in addition to my wife pressing on the brake as I was tightening each bleed valve. Work perfectly. Good stuff. Especially with new calipers they can trap air when first bled out, glad you got it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Get an Eezibleed kit and a litre of fresh fluid and put the lot through whether you think it needs it or not - Brilliant peddle every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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