western Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Mine are working fine, one of the best mods my 110 has? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Do you think that this is a better option than tracking down a 300tdi axle with disk brakes and swapping the lot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Your choice, it was easier to convert mine,as I had been collecting the bits for ages & was given the disc hubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Yes I have still got the spacers pm me if your interested. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Do you think that this is a better option than tracking down a 300tdi axle with disk brakes and swapping the lot? For me keeping the axles was key, after swapping the engine and gearbox you need enough parts from original vehicle. I've still got the front and rear axles, both uprated now it's running the 300tdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 For me keeping the axles was key, after swapping the engine and gearbox you need enough parts from original vehicle. I've still got the front and rear axles, both uprated now it's running the 300tdi. Good point Pete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 If you are sticking a lot of kit in it, then I'd personally prefer the earlier stub axles and older axle casing as the bearings are wider spaced. In my mind it's better for high loads. Most expensive bits are the front hubs, caliper brackets and the calipers, shop around for these, as prices vary widely. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Yes I had thought about the stub axle issue and have kept the early ones I have some hubs from fleabay.just looking around for the caliper mounting brackets next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 island4x4 have them for £33 ex vat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 island4x4 have them for £33 ex vat Thanks Pete will have a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Any chance of a link as I can't find them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Any chance of a link as I can't find them. http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ftc3306&x=0&y=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 a few more suppliers, if you have problems getting them from Island 4x4. http://www.paddockspares.com/ftc3306-mounting-bracket.html https://www.lrdirect.com/FTC3306-Brake-Calmper-Bracket-90/ http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/86527/3649/brake_caliper_mounting_bracket_def http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/14700/FTC3306-HD-REAR-AXLE-CALIPER-MOUNTING.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Thanks. Not cheap but a necessity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Thanks. Not cheap but a necessity. I'm holding out in the hope of finding some cheap(er) second user genuine ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 The earlier axle is stronger - the half shafts are thicker, the drive flange tougher, the splines on the flange and shaft are longer (more contact spread) and wet. The wheel bearings are the same, but spaced wider, giving more strength on side loads (slopes and cornering), and are also wet rather than merely greased. I'm content with having modified an early 110 axle as opposed to finding a 300 type, but I'm sure the later axles work fine (I would remove the stub axle seal to allow the oil into the drive flange splines and wheel bearings, though, and seal the plastic cap with RTV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 The earlier axle is stronger - the half shafts are thicker, the drive flange tougher, the splines on the flange and shaft are longer (more contact spread) and wet. The wheel bearings are the same, but spaced wider, giving more strength on side loads (slopes and cornering), and are also wet rather than merely greased. I'm content with having modified an early 110 axle as opposed to finding a 300 type, but I'm sure the later axles work fine (I would remove the stub axle seal to allow the oil into the drive flange splines and wheel bearings, though, and seal the plastic cap with RTV. Thanks for the reply, this is the rout I've decided to go down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 In case anyone is thinking of doing this I have just priced up the total cost to complete this conversion using all Land Rover 300tdi parts. I priced up using my discounted account at Britcar and selected the cheapest part available (certainly not the best quality part or one you would consider fitting!!) The full cost comes in at £470, reusing some parts takes this down to £426. Given that there seems to be loads of Sailsbury disc axles on ebay at the moment for £400 (and I suspect you can find them cheaper of you are prepared to wait) then I don't feel this conversion is now really worthwhile. I plan to buy an axle complete, check/replace bearings/discs/pad if and where required and then sell on the old axle. I am taking my axle off in any case for a chassis swap.  2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 That is using new parts, of course.  If you do the conversion with the older front hubs and custom spacers for the calliper brackets (packs of washers would suffice), then it would be cheap as you’d be retaining the stub axles, shafts, drive flanges and using second hand front hubs.  You could use second hand callipers, but I don’t like the idea unless they’re stripped and rebuilt, and would need new discs and pads.  It’s not very expensive that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 28 minutes ago, Snagger said: That is using new parts, of course.  If you do the conversion with the older front hubs and custom spacers for the calliper brackets (packs of washers would suffice), then it would be cheap as you’d be retaining the stub axles, shafts, drive flanges and using second hand front hubs.  You could use second hand callipers, but I don’t like the idea unless they’re stripped and rebuilt, and would need new discs and pads.  It’s not very expensive that way. True but I would rather stick to the full 300tdi method of doing things so I don't have to work out exactly what I have done later down the line if anything needs repair/replacing.  Those brackets are a lot of money for what they are too! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 I'm cobbling together a conversion based on the diesel Jim method. I've an entire spare drum brake Sainsbury that I've been converting, to make sure it all works. It's all set up and seems to line up OK. Went to put the hub flange on and it seems far too thick. I have swapped the shafts and potentially the flanges over from spare axle, so I believe it's the same as the one on the car. Do I need longer shafts, I believe there are thinner flanges... Looks like there's about 35mm available. Any help appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 I used 110 front hubs, the original drum braked stub axles, driveshaft & thick driving members, try pulling the shafts out a bit to get the circlip groove outside the drive member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted November 11, 2022 Share Posted November 11, 2022 I used the same as western with no issue. I do recall pulling the shafts out a bit to fit the circlip they're not held in the diff so no problem with this. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Me too. Â You need to stick to a generation, either the older generation by using the existing shafts, drive flanges, stub axles and some old front hubs, or swap everything to the newer generation (300Tdi and later) which were built with disc brakes. Personally, I much prefer the older spec - the bearings are spaced much wider, which is better for them and dealing with tangential loads on side slops and cornering, and the splines joints are all much longer and kept lubricated, so corrosion and wear are much reduced. Â It does mean getting a little creative if you want alloys but not the typical 30mm spacers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted November 15, 2022 Share Posted November 15, 2022 Thanks for the assistance fellas'... Pulled out the shafts slightly and boom. Seems to fit exactly as expected which is a relief. Now have to be a bit brave and try and fit in all to the car insteadÂ đŸ¤” 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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